Any Smith Smiths in the House?

B

BigG

New member
I feel like a bonehead. Ok, that's out of the way.

I have a Smith Mod 27, like new appears to have very little use.

With the cylinder closed and revolver uncocked the crane sticks out forward about 2 or 3 thousands from flush on its forward surface. I appears like it does not have any play fore and aft, but when I press against it with my thumb it feels like it goes back a wee bit against spring tension then pops forward when pressure is released. The crane is not sprung as the seam is almost invisible from the front. None of my other Smiths have this play.

Is this something to be concerned about and if so, what should be done about it? :confused:

Thanks for you help in advance and happy holidays!

George
 
Have you checked to see if it's had a headspace shim washer installed? Pull the assy. out from the frame and look down at the forward end of the yoke stud(that goes inside the frame). It looks like a razor thin disc.
 
BigG,

Remove the cylinder and yoke, then put just the yoke back in place. Does it fit flush by itself?

If the answer is no, then you've found the mis-fit part.

If the answer is yes, then the "cylinder assembly" is too long. Check for endshake washers that have been added to the inside of the cylinder. You'll have to remove the ejector and extractor and try to pop (srape) them out with a small punch. You have to assume they are in there, because they are almost impossible to see, when they have been in place for awhile.

If that's not it, holler back and we'll move on to things like fitting the center pin or yoke barrel.

Good Luck...

Joe
 
Make sure the ejector rod is cranked down tight (it has reverse threads). Clean the ejector rod inside surfaces and under the star, as accumulated crud will make the star extend out too far. Normally, if the cylinder assembly "grows" in length, the cylinder will bind and be hard to open and close.

Some play in the crane/frame pin fit is normal, maybe .001 - .002". They make washers to shim it in if the play is too much. Adding a washer will move the crane forward with respect to the frame.

I would check for cylinder front to rear endshake with the cylinder closed. Measure it with a feeler gauge between the cylinder and barrel end (forcing cone). Push the cyl forward and gauge it, pull it rearward and gauge it. Subtract to get the difference, that number is the combined end shake of the cylinder/crane fit and the crane/frame fit. If the difference is less than about .003 - .004", then it is probably OK to shoot as is.

BTW: the barrel/cyl gap should be in the range of about .003" to .010" to be in spec, total end shake should be about .001" - .002", but a couple of thou more on end shake is OK.
 
Joe, the yoke sans cylinder fits in there like it grew there. Beautiful flush fit.

Would the factory put endshake washers in a brand new gun? Of course they probably would have to if the parts were slightly off, but it just seems odd that the yoke sticks out a smidge. The cyl has very little fore and aft play so I think it's ok to shoot. Is the fore and aft play what they mean by endshake? If so, the endshake is about .002 or .003, i.e., not much.

Bountyh: The ejector rod is tight as a mouse's you-know-what. No crud under the extractor star. I didn't take it apart as I know what a pita it is to have one unscrew unbeknownst and lock up the gun. If the washers are in there, I'm convinced Smith did it during assy as the gun is definitely unfired and there is no sign of the cyl hardly being turned.

Can you imagine buying a 24-year old gun, like new, for less than a current model? Is this a great country, or what? :D
 
Is the one that holds the yoke got a blank place on the end with threads on the head side instead of fully threaded?
 
OK, the sideplate screws in positions 1 and two (front and middle) are almost the same. I switched them and the problem still exists.

The yoke without cylinder goes all the way in. What could it be?
 
From your description, "I appears like it does not have any play fore and aft, but when I press against it with my thumb it feels like it goes back a wee bit against spring tension then pops forward when pressure is released. ", it sounds to me like the fit between the center pin and bolt isn't quite right. That's where I believe the "spring tension" feeling comes from. You can push back on any Smith cylinder and cylinder latch will give a little and push it back forward. I would disassemble and make sure there isn't some crud, a burr or anthing keeping the block from going fully to the rear. If there isn't any kind of obstruction, about the only cure I can think of would be maybe to polish a thousandth or two off of the center pin itself or do the same thing to the nose of the block. George
 
What I understand you to say is the block that the thumb latch is connected to is either a tad long or obstructed by some burr or crud?

Either way, you think it is ok to shoot as is?
 
BigG,

I think there is a good chance the problem is that the sideplate yoke screw isn't fitting the screw slot in the yoke. It's fitting too loose, allowing the entire yoke to move forward under the ejector rod/center pin springs pressure.

If your sideplate yoke screw has been shortened too much, a new screw (properly fitted) will sove the problem. An oversize #2 yoke screw might be needed. You'll have to get one from the factory, but I don't know if it will take up all the .002 slop you have.

As a last resort the yoke button can be peened down, to close up the screw slot a bit.

In practical terms, the problem is probably only cosmetic and you may want to just live with it. Although a new screw is only a $2, and easy to try.

Good Luck...

Joe
 
Thanks, everybody. I was wondering if the screw was too small for the slot. I haven't come across this particular defect before but am glad it is only cosmetic. Let's burn powder! :D
 
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