Any cure for LnL PTX from sticking to case (9mm)?

T

taymag

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Or at least any direction on why? Is it because of the flare I am putting for lead possibly?

I cant think of any reason other than it being a pain, but can you see a downside of just running it like this for now? Just not sure if the sticking is causing any kind of harm I would be avoiding
 
The LNL powder measure came w/ a rifle and pistol insert. The pistol insert was not for all pistol brass. The actual ptx needed for various brass is at: http://www.hornady.com/store/PTX-Powder-Drop-Expander-1-Each2/ Is there a chance you picked up the .357 ptx instead of the .355 for the 9mm? Is it possible you have new brass that has not been chamfer/debur? Is the flare set to where it just barely holds the bullet when turned upside down and shook?
 
For anyone that searches for this later there are 2 things here..

All the PTX needed was a little polishing with 1000 grit. I see people say this about a lot of things, including for problems I've had and it never fixed anything so I just never even tried it cause it felt smooth without any burrs.

Second, the 9mm .355 expander DOES work for .357 cast loads (for 9mm), as well as expands enough and flares enough. I saw many say it doesn't flare enough but mine did and after pulling a few bullets it didn't size them down, they still measured 357.

Hope that helps someone, all the "PTX sticking" posts I dug up went unresolved as far as the post showed, mine is smooth as glass now and was sticking EXTREMELY bad before to the point where I would have stopped using it
 
All of my PTXs worked perfectly. Just be sure to use the caliber-specific one for your job.
Did you remove the dry lube God supplies on the case ID (soot)? If so, you may need to use powdered graphite or micro-fine mica for a neck lube.
Next, you can heat the PTX up and apply carnauba wax and buff it (or other dry lube).
This can also be a problem with Lee PTE plugs and Dillon "powder funnels." They all do it, particularly with folks who clean and sanitize their cases to levels never dreamed of in the past.
 
Lee 9mm FCD sticking/clicking.. Also swags my cast down 003 no matter light I set it

For some reason one day this just went away on my single, I was so happy and now I have my LnL setup and the damn click/sticking is back. Any idea why this would be? I took it apart and cleaned it and there was quite a bit of brass shavings, I figured that was the problem but it wasn't

It seems like no matter how I set it, it either does zero crimp or too much. When I pull rounds that weren't crimped they are .357 consistently, but even the lightest crimp puts pulled bullets at .352

Since it seems so sensitive I feel like its not possible to use since if mixes brass might vary .002 that would swag my cast bullet down to at least .355

Any help here? This is the only hold up I am having, other than that the press is awesome
 
This is an odd one for sure. What kind of bullets are you using?

It's not the post-sizing ring or all the bullets would be swaged regardless of if they were crimped or not. The crimping part of the die only affects the bullet at the case rim and couldn't possibly swage the bullet with "even the lightest" crimp. I ask about the bullets because the only thing that comes to mind is the crimped case swaging the bullet as it is removed.
 
The best solution is to stop using the FCD and get a Lee Taper Crimp Die.
If you take the crimp "guts" out of the die, you will find the carbide "bulge ironer" will still swage the bullets down--it's why I only use them to iron out case bulges before sizing (see Bulge Buster kit).
When you put the "guts" back in, be sure they are installed correctly. There would have to be something grossly wrong for the crimp not to be adjustable-- thus, you are screwing up or Lee needs to be contacted rather than any forum.
 
Don't use a 0.355" expander for 0.357" bullets. The expander should produce a case ID (not case mouth flare) that is 0.001-0.002" under bullet diameter. If the ID is smaller, you can swage down lead and thin-plated bullets and have leading, tumbling, and inaccuracy. Reason to emphasize using the correct expander/PTX/PTE/powder funnel.
How many folks actually pull a seated bullet and check diameter and for damage?
 
Don't use a 0.355" expander for 0.357" bullets. The expander should produce a case ID (not case mouth flare) that is 0.001-0.002" under bullet diameter. If the ID is smaller, you can swage down lead and thin-plated bullets and have leading, tumbling, and inaccuracy. Reason to emphasize using the correct expander/PTX/PTE/powder funnel.
How many folks actually pull a seated bullet and check diameter and for damage?
Click to expand...

This seems to be back and forth with some, but my .355 expander leaves pulled (non-crimped) lead bullets at .357, even though some people said it wouldn't I saw someone say they used it so since I already ordered it I tested it and it was good to go.

The best solution is to stop using the FCD and get a Lee Taper Crimp Die.
Click to expand...

Theres no 9mm taper, do you think the 357 would adjust to take the bell out of 9mm? I don't think mas cast bullets taper down by the bell much more than 356, if that even (ill have to measure)
 
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Lee Taper Crimp Die 9mm Luger
Product #: 274765
Lee #: 90780
UPC #: 734307907

Seems ti exist to me.
Click to expand...

Someone posted a link in another post and it only listed other cartridges, I don't know why this wasn't listed, weird. I guess that's what I would have gotten for not researching it myself. You saved the day, I'm going to give it a shot
 
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