I'm hoping I can get some feedback in fixing my "tinkering" gun. I grabbed an Argentine systema Colt 1927 to fiddle around with and enhance my knowledge of the 1911. The gun has been a wonderful learning tool but I have a nagging problem. When I first got the gun in stock form it would occaisionally stay in a half cocked position when the slidestop was released and the slide slammed home. This never occured during live fire and was really only a minor nuissance since I would fully cock and lock the gun when it happened. I have recently installed a new mainspring, new barrel, full length guiderod, 18 lb. spring. The gun seemed to be compatible with these mods but recently the problem of the gun only going to half cocked has become worse. The weapon only goes to half cocked even when fired. The weapon has essentially become like a SA Colt revolver with me having to fully cock it between shots. Anyone know what I need to replace or work on? Thanks ahead of time.
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Any 1911 trouble shooters out there?
- Thread starter LF&Co. MG
- Start date
Coltdriver
New member
What CR Sam said.
Have you fully detail stripped your gun??
Its a lot of fun, not very difficult to do and getting it back together is not very hard at all.
I got a .45 for the same reason as you. It is a great platform to learn on.
Once you see how your sear is engaging you can determine if it is the sear or the seat on the hammer itself that is giving you trouble.
It is the only place on a .45 that I would not screw around with myself (being a rank amature student and all). You can get replacement drop in parts that will work, still give you a nice trigger and be reliable.
To properly set the angles you need some fairly pricy special tools that would make no sense for a single pistol.
If you attempt the effort yourself and get it wrong the gun can go full auto on you and it won't stop shooting until the magazine is empty. You can imagine what a handful that is in a .45!
Have you fully detail stripped your gun??
Its a lot of fun, not very difficult to do and getting it back together is not very hard at all.
I got a .45 for the same reason as you. It is a great platform to learn on.
Once you see how your sear is engaging you can determine if it is the sear or the seat on the hammer itself that is giving you trouble.
It is the only place on a .45 that I would not screw around with myself (being a rank amature student and all). You can get replacement drop in parts that will work, still give you a nice trigger and be reliable.
To properly set the angles you need some fairly pricy special tools that would make no sense for a single pistol.
If you attempt the effort yourself and get it wrong the gun can go full auto on you and it won't stop shooting until the magazine is empty. You can imagine what a handful that is in a .45!
ACTIONS BY R.A.K.
Inactive
LF&CO,
The thing to do in this situation IS replace both hammer and sear. the gun is old enough to warrent this.Also replace all springs in the pistol.
RON KONTOWSKY
ACTIONS BY R.A.K.
The thing to do in this situation IS replace both hammer and sear. the gun is old enough to warrent this.Also replace all springs in the pistol.
RON KONTOWSKY
ACTIONS BY R.A.K.
I have seen a lot of these guns where the lockwork was fooled with by someone who didn’t know what they were doing.
Start by making sure the pistol is unloaded. Then check it again. If you have not done so, remove the magazine.
Hold the trigger back, and then pull back and release the slide. The hammer should remain cocked. If it follows to half-cock you have a problem with the disconector or disconector spring.
If, after several tries the hammer does not follow down while the slide is cycled and the trigger is held back then the disconector is probably O.K. but the edge of the sear and/or hammer hooks (full cock notch) are messed up. Each time you drop the hammer into half-cock you batter the sear - not good. These sears (and hammers) are made out of relatively soft steel. The guns are good ones, but made to 1930’s standards.
Buy this book: “The Colt .45 Automatic; A Shop Manual, Vol 1.” By Jerry Kuhnhausen. (About $30.00) and you will soon know what you are doing. This book explains all and is well illustrated.
Start by making sure the pistol is unloaded. Then check it again. If you have not done so, remove the magazine.
Hold the trigger back, and then pull back and release the slide. The hammer should remain cocked. If it follows to half-cock you have a problem with the disconector or disconector spring.
If, after several tries the hammer does not follow down while the slide is cycled and the trigger is held back then the disconector is probably O.K. but the edge of the sear and/or hammer hooks (full cock notch) are messed up. Each time you drop the hammer into half-cock you batter the sear - not good. These sears (and hammers) are made out of relatively soft steel. The guns are good ones, but made to 1930’s standards.
Buy this book: “The Colt .45 Automatic; A Shop Manual, Vol 1.” By Jerry Kuhnhausen. (About $30.00) and you will soon know what you are doing. This book explains all and is well illustrated.
George Stringer
Staff Alumnus
I look at the disconnector and disconnector (center) leg of the sear spring first also. Make sure there are no dings or burrs on the disconnector. If it seems OK adjust the center leg of the sear spring to apply more pressure to it. If neither solves the problem then you might look at deepening the full cock notch on the hammer to allow more sear engagement. George
My experience with these guns has been if the hammer is messed up it is REALY messed up. The hooks (full cock notch) may still be O.K. but I have my doubts. Borrow a new hammer and carefully compare the notches on both.
Trigger pulls are something one shouldn't fool with unless they "know they know" what too do. A mistake can bring serious consequences. Before doing anything get a copy of the manual I recommended and read it - carefully.
Fortunately your gun was built in a plant Colt set up. They used Colt machinery and blueprints. Therefore Colt parts are interchangeable.
Trigger pulls are something one shouldn't fool with unless they "know they know" what too do. A mistake can bring serious consequences. Before doing anything get a copy of the manual I recommended and read it - carefully.
Fortunately your gun was built in a plant Colt set up. They used Colt machinery and blueprints. Therefore Colt parts are interchangeable.