Any 1911 Experts out there?

C

Conan

New member
Do any of you 1911 experts know how to change the mainspring housing on a 1911? I have a Kimber with the flat housing that I want to change to the arched style. There are two pins in it (one on the side at the bottom, one on the back). Any advice? Thanks!
 
I'm no expert, but this is an easy one.

The bottom pin holds the Mainspring Housing (MSH)to the frame. The rear pin holds the plunger under spring pressure. This is the spring for the hammer.

Here's the drill to change MSHs. Be sure the gun is unloaded, and drop the hammer on an empty chamber. Hold the gun in such a way it won't go moving around (a no-mar type of vice works best, but do with what you've got. Use a drift (preferrably something that wint scratch) and drive the lower pin out from left to right (as you hold the gun to fire). There should be a dimple on the left side of that pin...that a hint to drive from that side. Once the pin is halfway through the frame, you need to change your plan of attack. The MSH is under spring pressure (but since you dropped the hammer, then it's not really havy pressure). In other words, if you continue to take out the pin, it will launch right out and hit your nose (or something else!) Basically, hold the pistol so you can press down the MSH on a table so that when you take the pin completely out, you can slowly release the MSH. Go ahead and do this. Pull the MSH out (it's on rails). Take a punch and press the plunger (inside the MSH) down, and remove the pin that keeps it from flying out, then ease the plunger back up. Take out the spring and plunger, and put them in your new MSH (you also mey need to re-install the pin you just took out. Basically, press down on the plunger, and push the pin in.

Now to get this thing back in. When you took out the MSH, your main spring (the long, sheet metal three or four leafed thing) probably popped out. That's ok. Now we're going to put it back in. The far left part of the spring (with it "humping" away from you) goes on the back of the ejector (which is the same part that contacts the rear of the triggerbow...which is where you're putting the spring. The other leaves more or less fall into place. BTW, you'll have to raise the hammer bar to get in there for this. The tab on the bottom of the main spring goes into the slot at the bottom of the frame. Start scooting the new MSH up into the rails, slightly compressing the main spring. Lower the grip safety so that the MSH will go over the lip at the bottom, and push the MSH all the way up. Compress the hammer spring (the one in the MSH) again by pressing down on it on a table or something, and re-install the pin. you're done.
 
Conan:
Wilson Combat has a 1911 Maintenance manual which I found very helpful when I was learning to fully disassemble my 1911's (Kimbers and Gold Cup). Frontsight has the process right but the pictures sure help. Lyman has a nice set of gunsmith punches which Midway sells.
All the best
Bill Daniel

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Prosecute criminals to the fullest extent of the law and their weapons will become harmless.
 
It is just a matter of preference, but for me it is easier to remove the hammer before the mainspring housing. It relieves all the stress.

If you dont need that flat housing, send it to me.

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You have to be there when it's all over. Otherwise you can't say "I told you so."

Better days to be,

Ed
 
I just did this a week ago Conan, traded a King's custom arched housong for the flat plastic one on my Kimber...

Anyone want to trade a high quality, checkered, blue steel arched mainspring housing for a stipled curved one ?
 
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