I have a stock for a Savage model 99 and theres a hair line crack,where the tang slides into the stock. There is also a small gap in the same area. What would use to fill in the gap and to touch up that crack? I was thinking accuglass for the gap and maybe rubbing some wood glue into the crack with my thumb to force it in there. Thanks for your replies
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Another stock repair ?
- Thread starter 1Longbow
- Start date
The best way to fix that problem is to mix some regular accra-glass (not the gel) and gently spread the crack open. Force the accra-glas into the crack with your thumb. Now take a can of "canned air" like you get at the computer places, and blow the accra-glass into the spread crack. Do it outside so the splatter doesn't bother anything. that will force the glue all the way to the bottom of the crack. clamp it shut, clean off the excess with a cloth and alcohol. Leave it until the next day and remove the clamp.
Now, wax up the bearing areas and the bolt of the M99 and mix up a bit more of the accra-glas and glass bed the stock onto the receiver. Just bed the ares that take the load and the recoil. Sock down the bolt and wipe all the run-overs off with a cloth damp with rubbing alcohol. The next day remove the stock and clean up any 'flash" that may get in the way of the working of the trigger or safety and reassemble. At this point the stock to metal fit is better than new. and the crack is stronger than the original wood.
Now, wax up the bearing areas and the bolt of the M99 and mix up a bit more of the accra-glas and glass bed the stock onto the receiver. Just bed the ares that take the load and the recoil. Sock down the bolt and wipe all the run-overs off with a cloth damp with rubbing alcohol. The next day remove the stock and clean up any 'flash" that may get in the way of the working of the trigger or safety and reassemble. At this point the stock to metal fit is better than new. and the crack is stronger than the original wood.
For hair line cracks (no gap) I use this
http://www.bsi-inc.com/hobby/insta_cure.html
For gaps, if it cannot be clamped close, I use epoxy. I will put mixed epoxy in disposable syringe and force it into the gap. Best result if you drill access hole to the gap.
If the gap can be clamped close, I actually prefer yellow wood glue, titebond III in particular. Syringe is the applicator.
Surgical tubing is my choice clamping method.
Very important. Bonding surfaces need to be thoroughly decreased and dried before applying glue. I like denatured alcohol.
For super glue, Bob Smith, a light dust of baking soda into the crack before applying the thin glue will do magic. The bond will be way stronger.
-TL
http://www.bsi-inc.com/hobby/insta_cure.html
For gaps, if it cannot be clamped close, I use epoxy. I will put mixed epoxy in disposable syringe and force it into the gap. Best result if you drill access hole to the gap.
If the gap can be clamped close, I actually prefer yellow wood glue, titebond III in particular. Syringe is the applicator.
Surgical tubing is my choice clamping method.
Very important. Bonding surfaces need to be thoroughly decreased and dried before applying glue. I like denatured alcohol.
For super glue, Bob Smith, a light dust of baking soda into the crack before applying the thin glue will do magic. The bond will be way stronger.
-TL
weaselfire
New member
Elmer's glue and surgical tubing for the repair, the gap depends on size, placement and what you need for the end result.
Stick a toothpick in the crack to spread it slightly before gluing and clamping.
Jeff
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
Stick a toothpick in the crack to spread it slightly before gluing and clamping.
Jeff
Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
Gunplummer
New member
Best if you can get wood bleach into the cracked area first. Over the years a lot of oil gets down by the tang from the rifle standing in a rack. Nothing adheres to oily wood. Pretty much what takes the load on the stock should be the two "Wings" on the front of the stock, and MAYBE the lower tang area. Where the upper tang contacts the stock, there should actually be a small gap between the stock and the back of the tang. I don't know what a "Small gap" means in measurement. You may have the wrong model stock. It is a delicate area and one of the flaws in a truly great designed lever action. A lot of these cracked areas came from trying to remove a stock with the wrong screwdriver set up (I won't ask). I have a special driver I made up. It sounds half @##$#, but an old tire iron also works great to assemble/disassemble the stock. It is fat enough so that you cannot slip off and get wedged between the stock and bolt head. Anyway, good luck with it.
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Like Gunplummer says, degrease the area first (I use mineral spirits or alcohol), then spread the crack and get some AcraGlas down into the crack and clamp it. When you put the stock back on the rifle, you might bed the recoil lug on the back of the action into the area where it sits in the stock. The wood there gets compressed and allows the action to drive deeper into the stock and split the upper tang area, that's what causes those cracks.
Gunplummer
New member
Anybody ever use CRC on wood? That stuff really degreases steel.
Gunplummer
New member
The "Snowball effect"?
Gunplummer
New member
There is nothing there to reinforce where it cracks and no room to reinforce it. Years ago, it was common practice to glue a thin dowel or a brass pin behind the crack to stop the crack from spreading further. It is just a bad design. Like driving a wedge in there. H&R single shot shotguns had the same problem. That is why they went over to the socket type set up on their later guns.