Another casting session

H

Hunter Customs

New member
Well I casted another batch of bullets, following the advice Mike / Tx gave me about pacing myself the second batch is nicer then the first.

After I casted a big batch of the 45 caliber 252 SWC bullets (actual weight about 256) I decided I was going to cast some 300 gr RFN in the same caliber.

After a few cast with the new mold I noticed the mold blocks were no longer in alignment.
I looked at the alignment pins they had drifted back in the blocks to where the tips were just barely protruding out of the block.

I took that side of the block off the handles and drifted the pins forward to where they needed to be, put everything together and went back to casting.
Cast about 10 bullets and the pins had drifted to the rear again, I believe what's causing this is from tapping the sprue plate over to cut the sprues.

I know Lee would replace the mold seeing that it's new, but rather then pay the shipping and going to the trouble to ship it I'm thinking I may just fix it myself.

I do have a question, I've read where some recommend lapping your bullet molds, to all the bullet masters out there what say ye?

Thanks to all for the previous advice I've received.

Best Regards
Bob Hunter
www.huntercustoms.com
 
Well good to hear things are working a bit smoother on the casting, but sorry to hear of the mold issues.

I am simply going out on a limb here but do you have one of the "new" style 2 cavity molds? I haven't purchased any with the new style pins in them yet, but most feel it was an improvement. Not only that they now can be modified by Hollow Point Mold Service to throw HP's,
Complete new Lee DC HP RN

I would say to do a goog search on Lee new style molds. It should pop up a listing of post from Castboolits. I also saw a few from here as well. Surely there is something about keeping them in place in there somewhere. I haven't read through them all.

If it were me, I would shove them out then, I would take a nice sharp edged chisel and stake the insides so that they were a better press fit, then I would tap the backsides to the closest sized bolt thread and install a couple of set screws to keep them from pushing through.

You might also take that sprue plate and polish it up while your at it. I use a bench honing stone, and small smooth mill file and clean up anything that remotely feels sharp around the edged and on the face as well. Course I do that to all of them not just the Lee. It may not do anything to help the molds out but it gives me peace of mind that I dressed it up best as I could before I started gouging the faces up.

I also usually back off the sprue plate screw a touch as well. I like them to be just tight enough that they will almost fall on their own weight but not quite. I al use a pair of gloves to pour in and when the mold is the right temp you can shove that sprue plate real easy with the heel of your gloved hand and cut them right off. I usually give them about a 2 second count after it frost over then shove. Like I said though it needs to be up to casting temp to do that. Trust me I have had the hot fingers once or twice getting in a hurry.
 
Mike / Tx, yes I have the new type.

Your fix sounds like what I had in mind, threading the back side of the holes for set screws, this will give the pins something solid on their back side.

My other Lee mold has the same type of pins so far I've had no trouble with it.

I shot some of my bullets this afternoon, loaded them on top of 9.5 grains of Herco.
They grouped really well, have not had a chance to chronograph them yet so I'm not sure what the velocity is, I'm guessing between 900 and 950 FPS.

Seeing that I'm liking this bullet casting I'm thinking about purchasing some different molds, something with more then two cavities.

Thanks again for all your help.

Best Regards
Bob Hunter
www.huntercustoms.com
 
it was my understanding that you lap the mold if you need an odd size that isnt available. like if you lugged your 9mm and got .3568 and you wanted your bullets to drop bigger than they are, this would also require you lapping your sizing die if you size. there may be more to it than juat size, just recalling what i heard somewheres.

also, just send the mold back to lee, your out 5 bucks for a flat rate box and your done. i say that, but i would prob just fix mself too, i would rather spend an hour fixing than going to the post office.
 
Thanks skizzums for your reply on the mold lapping and your response about fixing the mold.

I did repair the mold myself.
I punched the pins out, tapped the holes part way from the rear with a 1/4 x 28 tap, screwed in some 1/4 x 28 set screws, adjusted the pins to the right length then staked the set screws to stay in place.

Best Regards
Bob Hunter
www.huntercustoms.com
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top