Unfortunately, my most accurate 22-250 turned out to be a Rem 788. So, it's worth it to me to fuss with the trigger. No adjustments in sight of course. Trigger now is crisp at 4 1/2 pounds. I like it well enough to work with it, if I can. Trigger assemply appears to be riveted together. How do I reduce this contraption to 2 pounds, or whatever I can get with safety? Also, is a diagram of the 788 trigger available? Thanks
Another 788 trigger question
- Thread starter cptmclark
- Start date
Wildalaska
Moderator
Take it to a gunsmith
Wild$95Alaska
Wild$95Alaska
I don't know if just any gunsmith will do, but I do know the 788 trigger assy. is a beast of it's own. At one time, many bench rest shooters were scarfing up the actions, so if you could search the web, you may be able to find a reputable smith that works on 788s. I have a 788 in 22/250 also, and the gun IS a tack driver AND the trigger could use some work on it. LOOSENUTS. 
Canjar makes a nice trigger, but it is pricey.
One way to reduce trigger pull (commonly used 20 years ago) is to replace the sear spring with a weaker spring. This cannot be done by clipping coils, only by replacing with a spring of smaller wire diameter. Be careful the spring you choose isn't too weak because the rifle will fire if dropped or smacked sharply .
One way to reduce trigger pull (commonly used 20 years ago) is to replace the sear spring with a weaker spring. This cannot be done by clipping coils, only by replacing with a spring of smaller wire diameter. Be careful the spring you choose isn't too weak because the rifle will fire if dropped or smacked sharply .
CaptainRazor
New member
Spring Replacement
For what it's worth, I have a 788 in .243 and All I did to mine was replace the trigger spring. It's been so long ago that I can't remember what all it entailed to change it, but I do remember that it wasn't an easy task. Then again, If I can do it (assuming they are all the same), anyone with patience and a little skill can do it. I don't remember any rivets, but I'll look at it again and see what I can remember.
If memory serves me correctly, I had a dealer order the spring kit, I think the name was Bullseye Springs or something like that, I'll try to check and post tomorrow. It came with 3 springs, a Blue, yellow, and a red one. I put the yellow one in and it worked so well, I didn't even try the others. On the scale it was right at 3 pounds, very clean, very crisp. This is a hunting rifle, so I didn't go any lighter (the red pill Neo)
.
I don't even know if the company exists anymore, if not, Wolff might offer something for the 788's.
Other than changing the spring, there's really not much else you can do to the stock trigger group unless you are an experienced and talented smith (I am definately not).
I consider myself an amateur gunsmith at best, and like Eastwood said "A man's got to know his limitations". Sometimes you have to farm it out to a professional, that's the key, knowing when you're "out of your league".
For what it's worth, I have a 788 in .243 and All I did to mine was replace the trigger spring. It's been so long ago that I can't remember what all it entailed to change it, but I do remember that it wasn't an easy task. Then again, If I can do it (assuming they are all the same), anyone with patience and a little skill can do it. I don't remember any rivets, but I'll look at it again and see what I can remember.
If memory serves me correctly, I had a dealer order the spring kit, I think the name was Bullseye Springs or something like that, I'll try to check and post tomorrow. It came with 3 springs, a Blue, yellow, and a red one. I put the yellow one in and it worked so well, I didn't even try the others. On the scale it was right at 3 pounds, very clean, very crisp. This is a hunting rifle, so I didn't go any lighter (the red pill Neo)
.I don't even know if the company exists anymore, if not, Wolff might offer something for the 788's.
Other than changing the spring, there's really not much else you can do to the stock trigger group unless you are an experienced and talented smith (I am definately not).
I consider myself an amateur gunsmith at best, and like Eastwood said "A man's got to know his limitations". Sometimes you have to farm it out to a professional, that's the key, knowing when you're "out of your league".
Trigger spring?
I have been successful with other rifles adjusting or changing the spring. Pray tell, how to I open the trigger assembly? It appears to be riveted together. Probably a dumb question, but I've never drilled a rivet out of a small mechanism. Must be an easy answer out there somewhere...OK, OK, any answer will do.
I have been successful with other rifles adjusting or changing the spring. Pray tell, how to I open the trigger assembly? It appears to be riveted together. Probably a dumb question, but I've never drilled a rivet out of a small mechanism. Must be an easy answer out there somewhere...OK, OK, any answer will do.
CaptainRazor
New member
Ok, Just for you cptmclark
I decided to pull mine out of the wood. To be honest, it's been so long ago, I had completely forgotten what the trigger group looked like. (I'm also glad I did take it out, it was starting to rust a little under there!)
Anyway, the only rivet I find on mine (trigger group) is near the top of the group (closest to the bolt), if yours is the same way, ignore that rivet, it's not part of the plan anyway.
Honestly, it's been at least 12 years since I did this, and it's a little vague.
First, remove the bolt.
Next, find a pin punch that fits the lowest roll pin (the one closest to the actually trigger), It looks like about a 1/16" roll (or spring) pin.
Carefully, drive out that pin, drive the punch all the way through the trigger housing to keep the trigger from jumping out.
Hold pressure up (toward the bolt) on the trigger and remove the pin punch.
Take out the trigger and the spring SHOULD be setting right there on the back top of it. I say SHOULD because that's the best I remember.
Install the new spring and assemble in reverse order.
It's really not that difficult of a job changing the spring, if you want to go any further than that, I'm sorry, I can't help you, I simply don't remember any more details. Once you get the trigger and spring out, you'll see that it's not a complicated device at all.
I THINK that the other parts in there will come out of the bottom of the trigger assembly if you remove the other roll pins, I THINK I took mine out at one time and polished them that way.
I wish I could be of more help, but go ahead and jump into it, I DO remember that it isn't overly complicated putting it back together. There simply aren't that many parts in there, and only one spring.
If you have any troubles, let me know and I'll look at it a little closer for you. Either way, let me know how it goes.
Also, disregard my previous post about this being hard to do, I obviously had another rifle in mind when I said that. The hardest thing is lining it all back up properly, with a little patience and persistance you can do this!
I decided to pull mine out of the wood. To be honest, it's been so long ago, I had completely forgotten what the trigger group looked like. (I'm also glad I did take it out, it was starting to rust a little under there!)
Anyway, the only rivet I find on mine (trigger group) is near the top of the group (closest to the bolt), if yours is the same way, ignore that rivet, it's not part of the plan anyway.
Honestly, it's been at least 12 years since I did this, and it's a little vague.
First, remove the bolt.
Next, find a pin punch that fits the lowest roll pin (the one closest to the actually trigger), It looks like about a 1/16" roll (or spring) pin.
Carefully, drive out that pin, drive the punch all the way through the trigger housing to keep the trigger from jumping out.
Hold pressure up (toward the bolt) on the trigger and remove the pin punch.
Take out the trigger and the spring SHOULD be setting right there on the back top of it. I say SHOULD because that's the best I remember.
Install the new spring and assemble in reverse order.
It's really not that difficult of a job changing the spring, if you want to go any further than that, I'm sorry, I can't help you, I simply don't remember any more details. Once you get the trigger and spring out, you'll see that it's not a complicated device at all.
I THINK that the other parts in there will come out of the bottom of the trigger assembly if you remove the other roll pins, I THINK I took mine out at one time and polished them that way.
I wish I could be of more help, but go ahead and jump into it, I DO remember that it isn't overly complicated putting it back together. There simply aren't that many parts in there, and only one spring.
If you have any troubles, let me know and I'll look at it a little closer for you. Either way, let me know how it goes.
Also, disregard my previous post about this being hard to do, I obviously had another rifle in mind when I said that. The hardest thing is lining it all back up properly, with a little patience and persistance you can do this!
CaptainRazor beat me to it.
You don't have to open the trigger to change the sear spring. The trigger housing on 3 of my 788s are one piece zinc castings that don't come apart.
1. Drive out the single roll pin that holds the trigger assembly to the receiver. It is located in the top center of the trigger housing and there is a hole in the safety lever that allows you see the end of the roll pin.
2. Once you have the trigger assembly loose, you'll see that the sear hinges around a roll pin at the upper aft corner of the trigger housing. Leave the roll pin alone but rotate the sear up and aft with your fingernail.
3. After lifting the sear, you'll see the end of the sear spring. I use one of the wife's sewing pins with a small hook on the end to snag the spring and lift it straight out of the trigger assembly. Assemble by reversing the steps.
In the time it took to read these 3 steps you could have changed the sear spring.
Just make sure your replacement spring isn't so weak that the rifle fires when dropped or smacked.
You don't have to open the trigger to change the sear spring. The trigger housing on 3 of my 788s are one piece zinc castings that don't come apart.
1. Drive out the single roll pin that holds the trigger assembly to the receiver. It is located in the top center of the trigger housing and there is a hole in the safety lever that allows you see the end of the roll pin.
2. Once you have the trigger assembly loose, you'll see that the sear hinges around a roll pin at the upper aft corner of the trigger housing. Leave the roll pin alone but rotate the sear up and aft with your fingernail.
3. After lifting the sear, you'll see the end of the sear spring. I use one of the wife's sewing pins with a small hook on the end to snag the spring and lift it straight out of the trigger assembly. Assemble by reversing the steps.
In the time it took to read these 3 steps you could have changed the sear spring.
Just make sure your replacement spring isn't so weak that the rifle fires when dropped or smacked.
Springs
I don't know where to find the "correct" spring, but until someone knowledgable responds I'll mention that ace hardware usually has a large selection of springs and I have been successful finding one the right diameter and tension. Cutting them can be a problem cause the mating surfaces may require a flat end on the spring. I'm probably going to do mine tonight, and hopefully will have one that will work. Cutting a coil or two off may work if one end of the spring fits into a "blind" hole. Time will tell. I'll be reading too for somebody to give a better answer.
I don't know where to find the "correct" spring, but until someone knowledgable responds I'll mention that ace hardware usually has a large selection of springs and I have been successful finding one the right diameter and tension. Cutting them can be a problem cause the mating surfaces may require a flat end on the spring. I'm probably going to do mine tonight, and hopefully will have one that will work. Cutting a coil or two off may work if one end of the spring fits into a "blind" hole. Time will tell. I'll be reading too for somebody to give a better answer.
CaptainRazor
New member
Ok guys, here's the best I can do. I found the old package that my springs came in. I had a dealer order these for me probably 12 years ago.
Here's what's on the package:
On the front: SPRING KIT #R-4
Fits Remington 788 Rifle
POST
Another Tune-up Kit From:
Bullseye
Shooting Aids
On the back: Bullseye Shooting Aids Inc.
17060 Masonic Road
Unit 105 "A"
Fraser, MI 48026
(313) 294-5160
Hope this helps, it's the best I can do. For what it's worth, I think the dealer ordered it from Southern Ohio Guns, or maybe Ellet Brothers. From what I remember, those where the two suppliers he dealt with mostly. He's been dead for about 8 years now, so asking him would be near impossible.
Anyway, if anyone has any luck, please share what you have found. It would be worth making note of for future reference.
Here's what's on the package:
On the front: SPRING KIT #R-4
Fits Remington 788 Rifle
POST
Another Tune-up Kit From:
Bullseye
Shooting Aids
On the back: Bullseye Shooting Aids Inc.
17060 Masonic Road
Unit 105 "A"
Fraser, MI 48026
(313) 294-5160
Hope this helps, it's the best I can do. For what it's worth, I think the dealer ordered it from Southern Ohio Guns, or maybe Ellet Brothers. From what I remember, those where the two suppliers he dealt with mostly. He's been dead for about 8 years now, so asking him would be near impossible.
Anyway, if anyone has any luck, please share what you have found. It would be worth making note of for future reference.