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Annealing
- Thread starter olduser
- Start date
I anneal .300 Savage for my Sav 99. No problems with it whatsoever. I also cast my own bullets from wheel weights. For my brass bullet molds, a temp of 720 degrees is about perfect; resulting in full fill out with sharp bases and easy sprue cutting...coincidentally, it's the perfect temp. for annealing.
I use my large lead melting pot, bringing the nearly full pot up to temp at 720 degrees, checking with an RCBS thermometer. Using a pair of pliers to lightly hold the case by its head/canelure, I then dip the mouth in up to the shoulder, in the molten lead alloy. I do this before depriming which keeps the lead from climbing up the inside of the case neck.
I keep the case/mouth submerged for a count of 7 seconds which leaves the brass good as new & ready to be trimmed/sized. I determined the 7-second dip timing by using a templac stick.
I don't have problems with lead soldering to the case neck exterior due to the miniscule coating of oil left from previous shooting/sizing.
Obviously, for safety reasons, a full face shield & a long sleeved shirt buttoned to the neck with good heavy leather gloves, are necessities.
I've never had a flash back, and make a careful inspection of each case to ensure my brass is THOROUGHLY DRY. Any water on the case, inside or out and you're looking for a disaster. Take time to do it methodically and you'll have no trouble.
This method of dipping the neck and shoulder results in a good arsenal looking bluish tinge and a case that sizes beautifully. After the dip, I drop them in a bath towel lined cardboard box. For my .300 and an ancient .30-40 Krag, I size after 3-4 firings and can't recall the last time I had a split neck.
While it's not a sexy, techno savvy way of annealing, it works uniformly well. I also use it with new .32-20 brass that I re-size to .25-20 for my Winchester M-53. As .25-20 brass is virtually extinct as far as new brass is concerned, annealing has allowed me to keep the old girl shooting.
This works for me, and has for the last 20 years....best regards, remember the full-faceshield and gloves. Rod
I use my large lead melting pot, bringing the nearly full pot up to temp at 720 degrees, checking with an RCBS thermometer. Using a pair of pliers to lightly hold the case by its head/canelure, I then dip the mouth in up to the shoulder, in the molten lead alloy. I do this before depriming which keeps the lead from climbing up the inside of the case neck.
I keep the case/mouth submerged for a count of 7 seconds which leaves the brass good as new & ready to be trimmed/sized. I determined the 7-second dip timing by using a templac stick.
I don't have problems with lead soldering to the case neck exterior due to the miniscule coating of oil left from previous shooting/sizing.
Obviously, for safety reasons, a full face shield & a long sleeved shirt buttoned to the neck with good heavy leather gloves, are necessities.
I've never had a flash back, and make a careful inspection of each case to ensure my brass is THOROUGHLY DRY. Any water on the case, inside or out and you're looking for a disaster. Take time to do it methodically and you'll have no trouble.
This method of dipping the neck and shoulder results in a good arsenal looking bluish tinge and a case that sizes beautifully. After the dip, I drop them in a bath towel lined cardboard box. For my .300 and an ancient .30-40 Krag, I size after 3-4 firings and can't recall the last time I had a split neck.
While it's not a sexy, techno savvy way of annealing, it works uniformly well. I also use it with new .32-20 brass that I re-size to .25-20 for my Winchester M-53. As .25-20 brass is virtually extinct as far as new brass is concerned, annealing has allowed me to keep the old girl shooting.
This works for me, and has for the last 20 years....best regards, remember the full-faceshield and gloves. Rod
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