Angled b/c gap, a concern or not.

C

Carmady

New member
I was checking the b/c gap and found on the left side .009", .010", and sometimes .011" feeler gauges will enter, but not go in very far.

On the right side it's more like .005" and .055". The .006" wouldn't start. That's about half as much gap as on the left side.

That means the b/c gap is wedge shaped for some reason.

This is how it came back from having the frame replaced at the factory.

Is this normal/acceptable/nbd?
 
Sounds like the end of the barrel is not square.
Click to expand...

I was thinking that too, but that barrel was in the original (pre-replacement) frame, and the b/c wasn't like that. Maybe the tech "adjusted" the end of the forcing cone.

Or maybe the bore axis and cylinder axis aren't parallel.

I don't know...but I wanted to get some opinions before calling them again.
 
Replace the frame? Wow.

If the barrel face is angled, it should be set back a turn and faced off flat and square with usual .006" gap. If the new frame is crooked it gets tougher.

Is this a high end name brand or an inexpensive plinker?
 
It's a S&W 642 Airweight. The frame was replaced the second time it went back to S&W because the hammer stud broke off. I think that's all they did, but not sure.

The first time it went back to S&W they:
"Performed Service:
Evaluate/Repair
Replace Cylinder
Repair Yoke"

The "Repair Yoke" part makes me think they tweaked it to fit the original frame.

Maybe what they did then makes stuff out of whack with the new frame?

I'm just guessing that may be the cause of the weird b/c gap.
 
It's a bad forcing cone.
Send it back.

Let me drop my obligatory S&W comment:
S&W sucks. They can't make anything decent any more.
Make them fix it and spend a little money on their greedy, cheap stupidity.
 
I have seen a number of revolvers of different makes with that "problem" and have never seen that it is anything to worry about. Maybe in the long term, there would be uneven erosion, but IMHO not a concern with a short barrel defense gun. If there is a big concern, especially about the tighter side (.005" gap*) or if the gun hangs up after several cylinders of rapid fire, most gunsmiths can use a special tool to even up the end of the barrel without removing the barrel.

Jim

*Normal range is about .005" to .010", with an average of .006"-.007". Much tighter, and the cylinder will lengthen from heat after about 10-15 shots and bind.

JK
 
I called S&W's CS and the guy said as long as it's in the .004"-.010" range everywhere around the forcing cone it's good. That will contain the gasses and keep it from spitting lead.
 
I agree with James K . . . .

How does it shoot? If it shoots well, then I can't see where it is a major problem other than you may get some flat cutting erosion farther down the line after you've put many thousands of rounds though it.

It sounds like you have had some issues with the revolver though and if the "frustration" with that and worrying about the cylinder gap really bothers you - the reply from S & W shows that they consider it within specs and will not address it. If that is the case, then maybe it is time for it to "how down the road" and look for another one that, upon inspection, looks like it is "right" all the way around - but that's a personal decision.

I own quite a few Smiths but most are all "vintage". I have never owned a Airweight as i ran across a nice Smith 36 - in face I have the snub and a 3" and find them an easy CCW even though all steel. I did look at a newer Airweight when I was looking for a J frame and had I not found the Model 36 snub I would have purchased it. I did not notice anything out of the ordinary with the Airtight I looked at in regards to fit and alignment and it seemed well made.

Good luck to you and personally, if it shot well, I'd keep it, carry it, shoot it and enjoy it.
 
It would not be acceptable to me. Gotta love S&W Customer Service response though. From a uniform gap of .004" to .008" years ago (most of my guns averaged ~.006") to good enough if it's .004" to .010" everywhere/somewhere? now. What if the forcing cone was jagged, ragged, even saw toothed .004' to .010" all around? That would still be in spec now days;)
 
I just spoke with a different CS guy, and it's going back. He said anything from .004" to .012" was good, but that's with a consistent gap all the way around. I rechecked mine and told him it was .011" on the wide side, and .005"-.0055" on the tight side.

Maybe the third time's a charm. We shall see.
 
Maybe the third time's a charm. We shall see.
Click to expand...

It's back, and the work order says:
"Evaluate/Repair
No Repair Required"

Tsk tsk tsk

Maybe they'll get some good help when the war's over.
 
I bought a new "Classics" S&W Model 57 last year that had an uneven .004-.011 gap. It was so accurate I almost left it alone. It bothered me enough to call S&W about it. The rep called the condition "an open barrel gap" and had me send it in. They replaced the barrel and it came back with a perfect .004" even gap and it had the same accuracy.
 
War?

S&W is making some of the best guns currently that they have ever made, just read the gun rag articles, they'll tell you that.

If The Mothership says no repair required, than no repair is required.

;)
 
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