An unexpected acquisition

rfalcon

New member
I find myself in possession of a 1980 Amri San Paolo caliber .44; I know nothing about black powder pistols, although I'm an avid handgunner. a small spot of surface rust starting, bluing half worn off cylinder, and there's an extra pin in the grip near the bottom of the grip I've not seen in any photos. Bore is excellent, and everything appears solid and functional. Before I disassemble, inspect and clean, I was curious if there is anything in particular I should look for to indicate problems. The one thing I've noticed appear to be impact marks in the metal between the nibs, as if the hammer has struck the cylinder. It seems to be indexing fine at the moment, but I've some hesitation. I'd like to take it out and fire it, but my lack of knowledge about black powder makes me cautious. I'd appreciate any thoughts on the matter.
 

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You've got a Remington New Model Army, some call it the 1858 Remington. Can you take a pic of the extra pin your talking about?
Thanks and welcome to the forum!
 
Normally this hole does not come to the surface, there is a pin in the frame which is for holding the grip in place.
 
Thanks Dave. Maybe supports my theory the grips were sanded down for some reason. The edge of the grips don't line up with the edge of the frame in all spots - but I'm not sure if they should.
 
Yup, I have boogered up my Stainless Uberti 1858 with the hammer dropping on the cylinder when the cylinder was not fully locked up.

I think it was the result of the revolver getting gummed up from shooting, and the cylinder was not turning well on its arbor. As a result it stopped turning before the hand pushed it into bolt lock, and the hammer fell in between the chambers. It would only do it in one particular spot where it was sticking.

After I cleaned it, the problem went away, but now my cylinder has a gouge in it where the hammer fell in between the nipples a couple of times.

Steve
 
There's some important things to know before shooting a black powder revolver.
To avoid any nasty surprises, check the sticky at the top of the page.
 
Steve - the funny thing is, this cylinder has notches between the nipples for the hammer to rest without being over a cap. I can't get the hammer to lower on one of them, however.

And I plan to do a lot of learning prior to firing the gun. A lot to do first, to restore the piece.
 
Those look like homemade grips and they drilled the hole for the locating pin all the way through.
 
Steve - the funny thing is, this cylinder has notches between the nipples for the hammer to rest without being over a cap. I can't get the hammer to lower on one of them, however.

Yup, if you go to half cock and turn the cylinder until the safety notches line up, you should be able to then pull the trigger and lightly pull back on the hammer to disengage the half-cock and drop the hammer into a safety notch.

With the problem I was describing the cylinder was turning so that the jam was not exactly in between chambers so the hammer didn't drop into the safety notch, it smashed the rear of the cylinder.

It's a light enough gouge that I could probably file and buff it out, mine being stainless there is no finish to worry about.

Steve
 
Steve

Might be a problem with mine, as I couldn't get the hammer to drop on the safety notch. I'll deburr the gouge marks, but doubt I'll get them all the way out. Might as well refinish the entire thing any way, to keep the finish even. I might not ever shoot it, but it WILL look good... lol
 
Side question: do all of these 1858 reproductions use the same nipple size? Found them for sale for a Pieta, but didnt want to make assumptions about compatability...
 
Thank you sir.

Also wondering about a screw set, now that I've disassembled it. TAylors has screw sets for Uberti and Pieta, though I doubt these would work on a Paolo.
 
Howdy

I have the same revolver. It was marketed by EuroArms but made by Armi San Paolo. I bought it new in 1975.

Here is a photo. It currently has a cartridge conversion cylinder in it and I had a taller front sight mounted on it to lower the point of impact with cartridges.

Remmiewithtallsight.jpg




Here is the barrel marking.

EuroarmsBarrelMarking.jpg




If you lower the loading lever and turn it over you will probably see the Armi San Paolo marking on the underside of the barrel, a D,G,G in a circle.
ArmiSanPaolotrademark.jpg



Regarding the 'safety notches' for the hammer between nipples on the cylinder, that is a feature of the original Remingtons. For what it's worth, I have never bothered to use it. And my hammer too does not fit into the notches. The hammer nose is too wide.
 
I wonder why...

the hammers are being made too wide to fit in the cylinder notches? You would think on a replica, that the notches/hammer width, would be the same as the original pistol, so the notches and hammer would work together.

What would be the reason that these were not to scale with the original gun? :confused:

Just poor quality reproduction??
 
The hammer on mine fits the safety notches. Just took me a bit to figure out how to make the hammer drop on one.
 
the hammers are being made too wide to fit in the cylinder notches? You would think on a replica, that the notches/hammer width, would be the same as the original pistol, so the notches and hammer would work together.

What would be the reason that these were not to scale with the original gun?

Just poor quality reproduction??

Who knows? Mine is over 40 years old. Who knows what they were thinking.

It never bothered me because I never tried to use the safety notches.
 
Mine is 48 years old and the hammer fits just fine. Looking at these picts. the notch looks slightly peaned shut, as if some one had been rapid firing (fanning) and the action was not full cycled, the drag marks from the bolt also indicate a tough life.
I have one or another cap and ball pistol loaded for "the unexpected" and they get all 6, hammer in the notch or on the pin, but if they were bouncing around I would load only five.
 
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