luckyc1423
Inactive
I am pretty new into shooting and when you go to the store to buy ammunition it can be very confusing.
I have done some research online and I have compiled a list below. I have done this more so the experienced shooters can inform me if I understand everything properly, and maybe it will help out some inexperienced forum members like myself.
Please let me know what is wrong below and I will make the corrections just incase someone else like me stumbles across this thread. (I researched threads and couldnt find exactly everything in one place).
Again I am writing this so to help myself better understand ammo terminology and have experienced users correct me in areas were i might be thinking wrong.
Ammo 101
basic components of ammo are the 1) casing, 2) the powder or charge that is held within the casing, 3) the bullet or projectile that sits on the casing.
1) Casing --> Steel or Brass Option. Steel ammo is cheaper to purchase vs Brass. The main issue with Steel is it doesnt expand to plug the barral as quickly as Brass, this basically means that since steel is not expanding as quickly you get more gun powder residue sliding passed the casing and going into the rest of the gun. Thus making the gun dirtier.
So essentially the biggest difference between brass and steel is that steel will make your gun dirtier, thus making the gun more difficult to clean
2) Ammo Powder/Charge --> If you are looking at one caliber, lets say 9mm, all manufactures/bullets will essentially have the same amount of charge/powder. Unless the box designates a +P or a +P+. ........ +P stands for higher pressured ammunition than normal. +P+ is a step above +P
For target practicing standard ammunition is fine. But if you are shooting a really large grain bullet then a +P+ would be befinicial since the bullet weighs more.
So for a random example (no clue if this is true but this is just for understanding purposes)
A 115 grain bullet flies faster than a 124 grain bullet. But if you had a +P 124 grain bullet then it might fly at the same speed as a 115 grain bullet with a standard powder/charge.
So think of it like this
115 grain standard power flies at the same speed as a 124 grain bullet at +P power which flies at the same speed as a 160 grain bullet at +P+ power
Again no idea if the above is true but just used those examples to demonstrate +P
3a) Projectile Grain --> This refers to the weight of the bullet (projectile). 115 grain being a slightly smaller/lighter projectile than 124 grain. The smaller the grain the faster the projectile with everything else being equal. The bigger the grain the more knock down power (more mass hitting the target)
3b) Projectile FMJ --> stands for full metal jacket. this means the bullet/projectile is covered in a thicker copper or thicker material than the bullet is made out of. The only part of the bullet that is not covered in this thicker copper material is the bottom of the bullet
Basically the benefit of FMJ is to prevent the lead projectile/bullet from having small particles of the bullet go into the air at the range.
3c) Projectile TMJ --> stands for total metal jacket. This is basically the same thing as FMJ except with TMJ the bottom of the bullet is also covered in the copper material
3d) Projectile tip types --> Rounded vs. hollowpoint vs polymer tips --> rounded is best for target as it is cheaper. Hollowpoint is a hunting or defense round that expands when it hits a target creating more damage. Polymer tip is essentially a hollowpoint tip except the hollow part is cover in a polymer material so it will fly straighter in the air. But once it hits its target the polymer material goes away and now the bullet is a hollowpoint and will do the same damage as a hollowpoint buller
So when you are at cabellas or walmart buying ammunition you will see it like this
Caliber/Gun Size --> Grain size --> and whether it is a FMJ or TMJ
So for example
9mm --> 124 grain --> FMJ
Then you just have to read the box to figure out what type of casing it has.
If you open the box and look at the ammo and its a shiny bronze color then it is probably brass. If it is a gray color then it is probably steel.
So, for all intensive purposes if 1 bullet has the exact same ratings it doesnt matter which manufacturer you choose because the bullets will be pretty close to the same. So either choose the manufacturer that you favor or choose the cheapest manufacturer since the bullets should perform the same.
I have done some research online and I have compiled a list below. I have done this more so the experienced shooters can inform me if I understand everything properly, and maybe it will help out some inexperienced forum members like myself.
Please let me know what is wrong below and I will make the corrections just incase someone else like me stumbles across this thread. (I researched threads and couldnt find exactly everything in one place).
Again I am writing this so to help myself better understand ammo terminology and have experienced users correct me in areas were i might be thinking wrong.
Ammo 101
basic components of ammo are the 1) casing, 2) the powder or charge that is held within the casing, 3) the bullet or projectile that sits on the casing.
1) Casing --> Steel or Brass Option. Steel ammo is cheaper to purchase vs Brass. The main issue with Steel is it doesnt expand to plug the barral as quickly as Brass, this basically means that since steel is not expanding as quickly you get more gun powder residue sliding passed the casing and going into the rest of the gun. Thus making the gun dirtier.
So essentially the biggest difference between brass and steel is that steel will make your gun dirtier, thus making the gun more difficult to clean
2) Ammo Powder/Charge --> If you are looking at one caliber, lets say 9mm, all manufactures/bullets will essentially have the same amount of charge/powder. Unless the box designates a +P or a +P+. ........ +P stands for higher pressured ammunition than normal. +P+ is a step above +P
For target practicing standard ammunition is fine. But if you are shooting a really large grain bullet then a +P+ would be befinicial since the bullet weighs more.
So for a random example (no clue if this is true but this is just for understanding purposes)
A 115 grain bullet flies faster than a 124 grain bullet. But if you had a +P 124 grain bullet then it might fly at the same speed as a 115 grain bullet with a standard powder/charge.
So think of it like this
115 grain standard power flies at the same speed as a 124 grain bullet at +P power which flies at the same speed as a 160 grain bullet at +P+ power
Again no idea if the above is true but just used those examples to demonstrate +P
3a) Projectile Grain --> This refers to the weight of the bullet (projectile). 115 grain being a slightly smaller/lighter projectile than 124 grain. The smaller the grain the faster the projectile with everything else being equal. The bigger the grain the more knock down power (more mass hitting the target)
3b) Projectile FMJ --> stands for full metal jacket. this means the bullet/projectile is covered in a thicker copper or thicker material than the bullet is made out of. The only part of the bullet that is not covered in this thicker copper material is the bottom of the bullet
Basically the benefit of FMJ is to prevent the lead projectile/bullet from having small particles of the bullet go into the air at the range.
3c) Projectile TMJ --> stands for total metal jacket. This is basically the same thing as FMJ except with TMJ the bottom of the bullet is also covered in the copper material
3d) Projectile tip types --> Rounded vs. hollowpoint vs polymer tips --> rounded is best for target as it is cheaper. Hollowpoint is a hunting or defense round that expands when it hits a target creating more damage. Polymer tip is essentially a hollowpoint tip except the hollow part is cover in a polymer material so it will fly straighter in the air. But once it hits its target the polymer material goes away and now the bullet is a hollowpoint and will do the same damage as a hollowpoint buller
So when you are at cabellas or walmart buying ammunition you will see it like this
Caliber/Gun Size --> Grain size --> and whether it is a FMJ or TMJ
So for example
9mm --> 124 grain --> FMJ
Then you just have to read the box to figure out what type of casing it has.
If you open the box and look at the ammo and its a shiny bronze color then it is probably brass. If it is a gray color then it is probably steel.
So, for all intensive purposes if 1 bullet has the exact same ratings it doesnt matter which manufacturer you choose because the bullets will be pretty close to the same. So either choose the manufacturer that you favor or choose the cheapest manufacturer since the bullets should perform the same.