Aluma Hyde advice

celtgun

New member
Going to try Aluma Hyde II on 2 rusted guns for the first time.
Any advice/tips would be very appreciated.
What is best to degrease right before spraying?
Thanx.

Pray and Shoot Daily.
Lee Jones(Celtgun)

"The truth is that any good modern rifle is good enough. The determining factor is the man behind the gun." Theodore Roosevelt, 1910
 
Is it going on steel or aluminum? I ask, because here's my experience with it:

They say prep is everything. I painted a ruger 10|22 reciever in alumihyde black. I sanded and degreased the hell out of it. Got it as perfect as I could, even made sure it dried right. Now, I sprayed it and cured it with a heat gun just like your supposed to. Guess what? As soon as it gets a scratch, it begins to peel off from there. Don't get me wrong, it is touch epoxy paint but man, I expeted a little better for a f%@#!'g $12 can of paint.

I decided to touch up an AK with it also.
No prep except roughing up the anodized steel a bit with fine sandpaper.
Blew the dust off and sprayed. Didn't cure it or anything. To this day it has stayed on the steel AK and it scratched off where the safety selector rubs the reciever but didn't peel like the ruger aluminum reciever....

So, I don't know what to tell you. Blue it if you can, use alumihyde if you must. Apparently the more you care then the less quality you'll get, but when you don't care what happens it will turn out perfect...
 
The baked on finishes are far superior to Aluma Hyde but require a little more work . Aluma Hyde works fairly well on aluminum if you allow a couple weeks curing time and give the surface some tooth .
 
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