All Choked up
- Thread starter Bwbraven
- Start date
Haven't used either one....
In my Brownings - I am using only Browning chokes ( made by Briley I believe )...
In my Benelli's ...I am using only Benelli chokes .....( don't know who makes them for sure ...)...
I have purchased a few more chokes from Briley - and they've been first class quality ....so that's the only company I would use.
In my Brownings - I am using only Browning chokes ( made by Briley I believe )...
In my Benelli's ...I am using only Benelli chokes .....( don't know who makes them for sure ...)...
I have purchased a few more chokes from Briley - and they've been first class quality ....so that's the only company I would use.
I have a bunch of choke tubes. Extended and flush. Different gauges. All are marked Full, Improved Modified, Skeet, etc. Not one is ported or has a fancy name. I have tubes made by Remington, Carlsons, Colonial, Briley, and Trulock that I can think of offhand, and I have had Brownings and Berettas. All perform exactly as one would expect based on the constriction versus bore, assuming you have done enough shooting to know what to expect. I used to have a bunch of custom bored tubes to match up with my overbored barrels with specific shot sizes. I shot thousands of patterns. I was after the last 1%, and I am confident I got it. You can spend as much as you want, but I think most of the money for fancy names and ports is great for the manufacturers and if you like to brag about how much you spent. But, it's a free country for a little while yet, so get whatever makes you happy.
Browning has specialty waterfowl chokes.../ so does Briley ....I would just stick with those.
http://www.browning.com/products/catalog/accessories/detail.asp?fid=003J&cid=113&tid=40316&bg=x
If you have the Invector Plus choke system - this should work just fine.
http://www.browning.com/products/catalog/accessories/detail.asp?fid=003J&cid=113&tid=40316&bg=x
If you have the Invector Plus choke system - this should work just fine.
Orphanedcowboy
New member
In order to fully utilize an ultra-tight patterning choke tube, you have to be very proficient at wing shooting. I have found for other than conservation season, a Light Modified or Modified to be a good choice.
If you are dead set on this, then we really need to know what loads you plan.on.using, the wad stripping choke tubes in my testing have not been favorable to fast loads, I eventually abandoned them in favor of the Terror tubes in .675" and .680" and a Briley EXR.
If you are dead set on this, then we really need to know what loads you plan.on.using, the wad stripping choke tubes in my testing have not been favorable to fast loads, I eventually abandoned them in favor of the Terror tubes in .675" and .680" and a Briley EXR.
A Browning Invector Plus ...Modified choke ...should be just fine ...but I haven't done any extensive tests on that load.
I'd suggest you take the gun ...and that shell....to a pattern board.../ 25 yds, 40 yds or whatever you think ....and test it and evaluate the pattern. Check both the effectiveness of the 30" pattern ....and the point of impact - ( center of the pattern ) to make sure the gun is hitting where you are looking.
If you have more than one Browning Modified Choke tube ...test how every many you have....
( depends on the pattern board / it may not be a good idea to shoot that load at a steel pattern board / maybe its better to put some stakes in the ground ...and butcher paper up ...put a dot on it / and shoot at the paper ).
I'd suggest you take the gun ...and that shell....to a pattern board.../ 25 yds, 40 yds or whatever you think ....and test it and evaluate the pattern. Check both the effectiveness of the 30" pattern ....and the point of impact - ( center of the pattern ) to make sure the gun is hitting where you are looking.
If you have more than one Browning Modified Choke tube ...test how every many you have....
( depends on the pattern board / it may not be a good idea to shoot that load at a steel pattern board / maybe its better to put some stakes in the ground ...and butcher paper up ...put a dot on it / and shoot at the paper ).
Orphanedcowboy
New member
One other question is what range are you shooting?
I have not used a 3 1/2" load in quite some time, even during conservation season.
When I patterned my Maxus, the #3 & #4 1450fps loads were phenomenal with I/C, L/M and Mod, and L/M stayed in the gun the majority of the time. I put 177 ducks in the bag last season. If this were me, I would buy the 3" 1450fps loads and the same 3 1/2" 1450fps loads and compare them, not only patterns but recoil and I think you will be surprised.
I have not used a 3 1/2" load in quite some time, even during conservation season.
When I patterned my Maxus, the #3 & #4 1450fps loads were phenomenal with I/C, L/M and Mod, and L/M stayed in the gun the majority of the time. I put 177 ducks in the bag last season. If this were me, I would buy the 3" 1450fps loads and the same 3 1/2" 1450fps loads and compare them, not only patterns but recoil and I think you will be surprised.
It varies I hunt flooded timber one day and open lake the next 20-40 yards is average though. I have no problem hitting birds I just want to improve my effective range without crippling birds. I've been using my full choke mostly but also use my modified on occasion. With both current chokes gun patterns high and left at 25 yards using steel shot.
http://www.browning.com/customerservice/qna/detail.asp?id=128 maybe they don't know what they are talking about though.
Maybe I'm the one missing something here....but all of my OEM Browning Invector Plus chokes.....
on the Modified Choke ...reads on the body "Mod Lead" ..."Full Steel"...
On the Improved Modified Choke - it read "ImpMod Lead" - "Full Steel" ...
On the Full Choke ....it reads Lead Only ...
But I still wouldn't shoot anything tighter than a Modified for Steel.
on the Modified Choke ...reads on the body "Mod Lead" ..."Full Steel"...
On the Improved Modified Choke - it read "ImpMod Lead" - "Full Steel" ...
On the Full Choke ....it reads Lead Only ...
But I still wouldn't shoot anything tighter than a Modified for Steel.
Orphanedcowboy
New member
Browning's comment is only for their factory chokes and fixed choke barrels.
The aftermarket chokes have different recommendations. If 40yds is your maximum distance, a LM/Mod choke is all you need, and yes with steel add 2 choke designations for steel:
I/C = Mod
Mod = Full
Etc.
So based on that, a L/M would be like a I/M and the Mod would be equal to a Full when using steel.
A 3" shell will do all you need and the money saved per case will pay for a full set of chokes in a couple of seasons.
I have several Terror chokes, in .670", .675" and .680" and they are tight patterning chokes, these will only be used during conservation season. I also have another favorite, the Briley EXR Extreme Range choke, it is about a I/C constriction, but what it has is straight rifling. It throws a very tight pattern and acts like a wad retarding choke with out the studs, I only use it on extremely windy days that the ducks skirt the decoys or just refuse to commit.
If you are shooting a Browning Maxus Invector + gun(the 3" gun I used last season to harvest 177birds), a L/M would be a good start, but if you are using #2 steel I would suggest you drop to a #3 load in a 3" hull.
I would gather you are using a 1 3/8oz load of #2 steel, if so, you have approximately 171 pellets while a #3 1 1/4oz load will have approximately 191 pellets with lower recoil: 1550fps vs 1425/1450fps. They will have about the same velocity and energy at 40/45yds, but with the 1450fps loads you get an easier to pattern load with lower perceived recoil and better pattern density.
The Kent 3 1/2" load is about $199 a case while my favorite 3" load is only $140, that is 2 extended chokes right there.
The aftermarket chokes have different recommendations. If 40yds is your maximum distance, a LM/Mod choke is all you need, and yes with steel add 2 choke designations for steel:
I/C = Mod
Mod = Full
Etc.
So based on that, a L/M would be like a I/M and the Mod would be equal to a Full when using steel.
A 3" shell will do all you need and the money saved per case will pay for a full set of chokes in a couple of seasons.
I have several Terror chokes, in .670", .675" and .680" and they are tight patterning chokes, these will only be used during conservation season. I also have another favorite, the Briley EXR Extreme Range choke, it is about a I/C constriction, but what it has is straight rifling. It throws a very tight pattern and acts like a wad retarding choke with out the studs, I only use it on extremely windy days that the ducks skirt the decoys or just refuse to commit.
If you are shooting a Browning Maxus Invector + gun(the 3" gun I used last season to harvest 177birds), a L/M would be a good start, but if you are using #2 steel I would suggest you drop to a #3 load in a 3" hull.
I would gather you are using a 1 3/8oz load of #2 steel, if so, you have approximately 171 pellets while a #3 1 1/4oz load will have approximately 191 pellets with lower recoil: 1550fps vs 1425/1450fps. They will have about the same velocity and energy at 40/45yds, but with the 1450fps loads you get an easier to pattern load with lower perceived recoil and better pattern density.
The Kent 3 1/2" load is about $199 a case while my favorite 3" load is only $140, that is 2 extended chokes right there.