Alignment?

R

ReserveCop

New member
This issue came up in another post.

My question is: how can you check to make sure you have the correct barrel alignment with your revolver's cylinder?

Can you check this yourself or do you need to go to a gunsmith?

Thanks for your opinions.
 
Check my last post in your other thread on the j-frame.

As an aside on your j-frame. I suspect it is mechanically safe to fire. However, if it is to serve as a duty weapon (even in backup capacity) and the cylinder slips by the frame projection (boss) easily, I'd get that corrected. It could be very disconcerting when trying for a fast reload.

Just my opinion.
 
If you are concerned, which I would be, I would take it to a reliable gunsmith and have him check the cylinder timing as well as replace any worn parts. So long as the cylinder locks up everytime when your hammer is pulled back for sigle action shooting without any assistance from you, alignment in that aspect is ok.

If you experienced and lead spitting during firing, the culprit is most likely a bad cut forcing cone.

Double action shooting is another story, and a bit harder to check for correct timing/alignment unless you know what you are doing. Again, I suggest a gunsmith check.

Good shooting
REd
 
Thanks.

My J-Frame is an older model (042) which has a concealed hammer...so it only operate in double action.

Thanks for your opinions.
 
Even with a concealed hammer, it is possible to check alignment by eyeball. You can either shine a bore light down the bore (use one of the ones with the "L" shaped light rod and cover the back part) or into the headspace between the back of the cylinder and the frame. Either will let you see the alignment of barrel and chamber.

Jim
 
What I would do to check alignment, esp. on a snubby...

My method would require dry-firing it five times. What you do is, you dry-fire, no snap-caps, and keep holding the trigger back at end-of-stroke.

You've now got the gun in "full lockup".

Take any good concentrated light, and shine it into the area at the back of the cylinder, behind the cylinder bore that's in-line with the barrel. A small flashlight, Photon light or whatever is perfect.

Now look down the barrel. You'll be able to spot whether the cylinder bore is in line with the barrel, the light will backlight the bores.

Repeat for each cylinder. While you're at it, see if the cylinder wiggles any in the front-back direction, or more than a little bit in the "spin direction". And if you're really anal, check the barrel/cylinder gap either by eyeball looking sideways at the gap held up against a distant light, or with feeler gauges. .007" is disgusting but still "in spec", .002" is very tight (nice velocity boost) but still "streetable" - in my gun at that spec, I have to wipe the cylinder face after about 50 rounds or cylinder spin gets "grindy". I can accept that in exchange for max velocity, given that it's a snubby.

Jim
 
Weshoot mentions the Range Rod. You can make one yourself if you have a lathe and brass stock. Diameter will vary according to the caliber of the gun you're checking. The rod is inserted into the barrel and if the cylinder is properly aligned, it drops right in. Of course, like Jim mentioned, there's always the Mark I eyeball if you don't mind staring down the barrel of an empty gun.
 
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