ADVISE me on shooting a .44 at 25-yds. ---

B

BusGunner007

New member
--- ONE HANDED! :eek:

Here's why:
The 'club' I belong to has certain rules about qualifying to shoot handguns at 25-yds.
Their advice is to shoot the biggest caliber in the most difficult position so you'll be qualified to shoot anything under that in equally or less difficult positions.
If I qualify with my new, refinished SuperRedhawk in .44 Magnum, shooting it one-handed, scoring 70%, I'm good to go for my .357's off a rest; two-handed; whatever. You get the point.
If I only qualify on the .44 two-handed, EVERYTHING under that has to be shot that way!

SO, WHAT IS YOUR ADVICE ON ONE-HANDED SHOOTING FOR A .44 MAGNUM @ 25-YDS?
 
Squeeze the trigger when the sights are on target, and let the gun rise up in recoil without trying to fight it.

What's the big deal? People shot handguns mainly with one hand for most of the time they've been made. Formal target competition required that stance.

I've shot very tight groups at 25 yards with S&W M29's and the Ruger Super Blackhawk. Personally, I think one-handed is how one should start shooting. Only after mastering this basic stance should one go to other positions or to two hands.

Lone Star
 


Yep, shoot in the single action mode and use powder-puff loads if you think you'll develop a flinch.

Quick question, though: Isn't 45 bigger than 44? A nice SAA in 45 colt is a natural for bullseye style shooting.



-tINY

 
I don't have a .45.
I won't be buying one anytime soon.
I'd have to borrow somebody's .45 Colt SA.
And, now you've got me thinking about the 'action' rules, too! If I qualified with a 1911, does THAT count? I gotta ask 'em.

Meanwhile, I'd like to hear more about shooting the .44 Magnum revolover one-handed.
 
I'm not a big guy at all, but I've lately been shooting my .44 magnum with full-power loads one-handed at 25 yards. it's totally "do-able." If you have a flinch, you'll know well before you shoot. The muzzle will be wobbling around like a drunken sailor when you start to even THINK about squeezing the trigger. I've trained myself out of whatever flinch was there at the start, and can now get 4 or 5 inch groups at 25 yds with one hand. I'm sure people here can get better than that, but for me, it's not bad! :D
 
Use a medium powered load. They say to use the biggest caliber. Nothing was said about the load to use.
 
First of all, "qualifying" to shoot at 25 yards (or any other range at a club for that matter) is stupid IMO.

Second, shooting a magnum, big bore revolver is the opposite of shooting an autoloader. Keep your wrist stiff. When you fire, let your elbow and shoulder absorb the recoil. I.E. your wrist/forearm geometry should not change in reference to your prefiring hold, but your arm should rotate at the elbow and shoulder. You just let the gun recoil, you don't try to resist like you would with an autoloader.

Be careful with the "fire it single action" advise. With rules as stupid as having to qualify, they might make you fire all lesser revolvers single action if you "qualify" that way.
 
Use the classic "bullseye" stance- Body totally sideways so you could basically draw a line through both shoulders and the target, arm extended straight out. Put your non-firing hand in your hip pocket. This way it's not hanging there like a pendulum pulling your aim off center horizontally.

This stance is MUCH more stable than arm in front of you for most people.
 
http://www.gunpix.com/gallery/Handguns/Double_Action_Revolvers/mountaingun25slowf.JPG
This was with a 1000 fps /240 grain load.

This was with a handload pretty close to the old .44 special factory level
http://www.gunpix.com/gallery/Handguns/Double_Action_Revolvers/29fourinchbullet.jpg

Your revolver should be about as easy to shoot as this one. I was using a very mild .44 special type full wadcutter load. Light loads are a good idea unless your range overlords know about them and require full factory magnums
wadcuttersml1.jpg


Shooting one handed, remember to concentrate on keeping your front sight as sharp as possible. Let the target- and to a less extent, the rear sight, fuzz out. The trigger release and anticipating it is the real bugger. Even a slight anticipation of the shot will usually send it low. The ideal is a surprise brake as you apply pressure straight back. The longer barrels are a good bit more forgiving of anticipated shots than the shorter ones. Dry firing won't hurt your ruger so, do it a lot. Work toward keeping the sights in perfect register until the hammer falls. This will help you to determine ideal trigger finger placement.

In the environment you are describing, I would not be a recreational shooter. Practice would be a chore and I would only go to the range often enough to maintain minimal skills.
 
From yesterday on a different forum:



...went to the range on my split shift today, before I went back to drive The Bus...
The rubber Hogue grip is much more comfortable than the wood.
I shot one-handed at 25-yds. for the first time EVER.
I brought 3 HKS speedloaders with PMC 240-gr. JFP and got 17/18 rds. on the paper... all single-action.
About 8 of the shots were 'around' the center of the target.
The rest were all over the damn place!

I now have incentive to buy more of the same ammo and practice, practice, practice!
__________________
 
"I was using a very mild .44 special type full wadcutter load."

mec - do you cast your own wadcutter bullets or is there source where they can be ordered? There was a shop not too far from me that used to actually carry this type of bullet in stock. They no longer do , but after seeing your range results I would like to give this type of bullet a try in my 629. Any help appreciated.
 
I cast those from a lee mould. I've also shot some long- ended wadcutters cast by another guy from an old lyman mould. More a novelty than anything else, The lube grooves are tiny and the bullets work best at very low velocities. I use 3.5 bullseye in special cases and I think, the same in magnums.- no more than 4 I'm sure. They are satisfyingly mild and accurate from several .44 revovers.
Ah! here it is:
44wc.jpg
 
Nice pics there mec. There is an "old timer" at the gun club that might be able to fix me up with some of those wadcutter bullets. Really like to see what they would do in my 629.
 
I have an UPDATE to clarify this Topic:
I went to the range today to renew my membership early and talked to the RangeMaster about the rules on the pistol range.
HERE'S THE REASON FOR QUALIFYING ---
The pistol range is open to the PUBLIC on Sat/Sun. On these days, a MEMBER may QUALIFY @60% in the black with whatever handgun/caliber/position they wish, then attend the range meeting and get the Qualification sticker on their Membership Badge.
During the WEEK, the pistol range is open only to MEMBERS, who can purchase a key for $5.00, and use the pistol range according to their qualifications...
SO, the reason for qualifying is to earn access to the range when only Members are allowed in during the week. All you do is check in with the RangeMaster and verify yourself and your qualifications.
Simple, and Safe.

The Kenmore Shooting Ranges ( Wildlife Committee of Washington ) is where I went today to get clarification of the rules.
It's important to support this range as it is the only local range of its kind in the general Seattle area. It's been there for decades and provides training for Citizens, Military & Police.
That's why I went to renew my Membership for 2006 early...it's done.
Now that I understand the rules, I can make a decision as to where to start and get busy.
Besides, I can practice at the OTHER range that I support!!! :D
Did I mention I'm a Life Member of the NRA, too? ;)
 
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