Advisability of using +P .38spl ammo in a S&W Model 60 built in mid '80's?

ZWolfgang

New member
Hey guys, I have a beautiful little S&W Model 60 (.38spl 2" stainless revolver) which I bought new in the mid 80's. It's not a lightweight model. I've fired it VERY little over the years and it's like new. But when I bought it, they weren't rating these little Chief Special revolvers for +P ammo like they do today. Would I be running much risk of damage to me or the revolver by shooting +P ammo in it. For occasional practice, I'd probably use mild .38spl reloads, but occasionally shoot +P, as that is what I would like to carry in it for defense use. The defense round of choice for me would be either Winchester SXT 130 gr. JHP .38spl +P or Speer 125gr GoldDot JHP in +P.
 
Yup

Like the "other Mike" said, it won't hurt them but they will wear out a bit faster. Carried a 36 for years and that is all I shot through it. Qualified every quarter with 50 rounds and then lot's of practice between shoots with not much problem.
Mike
 
Advisability of warm loads in J-Frames

This is not a recommendation, just an observation.

In 1967, I bought an S&W Chief's Special from a retiring deputy sheriff. Over the next 15 years, I probably fired a thousand rounds of warm handloads, plus a lot of standard factory loads through it. It went away in a divorce, still shooting well, and yet protects my former wife's home.

Standard Disclaimer---CAUTION: The included hand load information exceeds currently-published MAXIMUM LOADS. It is provided for reference only. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK! Neither TFL ownership nor staff assume any liability for damage or injury to persons or gear resulting from use of this information.

The warm handloads were a then-standard load, from an old Lyman manual: 158 to 162 gr. LSWC or LRN with 5.0 gr. Unique.

Later on, I got a Model 37 Airweight Chief and shot it loose with the same loads. It was my Always Gun for years, and I practiced regularly with it. Carried Win or Rem 158 LSWCHP+P factory loads in it. It got loose, and went to a S&W trained 'smith for a rebuild. Back to the same routine. (Not a fast learner, I.) :rolleyes: After the next end-shake removal, the gunsmith warned me I'd ruin the gun if I didn't change my stoopid ways. Now, it gets fired only with light loads, though still carried with the 158 +Ps. Remember, this is with an alloy-frame revolver, NOT the full-weight from the 1960s.

The cautions given above by Mike & Mike are quite valid. Besides, it just isn't FUN to shoot heavy-recoil loads in ANY J-frame. Practice with light loads, shoot a few +P occasionally, and your model 60 will last your lifetime and probably your heirs' as well.;)

Best,
Johnny
 
my 60 is from 1983......shot mostly standard stuff and a cylinder of +ps every couple of years or so as to not be surprised by the recoil...still going fine...sodl it to a friend and got a 442.....even though it is +p rated, again, I baby it with mild loads and stoke it with 125 +p speer....
 
IMO, shooting warmish loads in even today's +P rated smiths will wear them quicker.
I don't think that the non-rated ones from the 70's or 80's would wear any more than a current one that is rated +P by the factory.

I think it's really only an issue in the pre/post model-numbering era, which coincides roughly with heat-treated frames.

I personally wouldn't shoot any +P from my pre-1957 guns, not because I'm afraid they'd blow, but because I know that wear would be greatly accelerated.
Likewise, I wouldn't hesitate shooting +P from any model numbered gun, but I do realize that wear would be accelerated whether it is a 1965 M60 or a 1995 M60.

JMHO, -Kframe
 
Back
Top