Advice on smoothing a trigger?

P

Pond James Pond

New member
Having extricated my polishing compounds last week and having tried them out on a crossbow trigger, I now have a hunger for polishing every trigger I have.

I realise, though, that I know too little about how they all work to start messing about with my guns with the exception of my CZ-452 .22LR bolt action.

As I recall the internals are much simpler than my other guns and unlike most of the others, it's trigger is only OK: a bit gritty and the break is not the best.

So, any suggestions for someone who plans to put dremel to sear?
 
So, any suggestions for someone who plans to put dremel to sear?
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Don't.

Tack a piece of suede or split cowhide leather with the rough side out, to a piece of wood. Rub Jeweler's Rouge into the leather and use it by rubbing it vigorously against the metal you wish to polish. I have found that such a method is less likely to change the geometry of the metal...just polishes it.
 
Exactly, Dremels are NOT gunsmithing tools; using hard Arkansas stones or similar - gently and LIGHTLY - work well. Polishing compounds tend to be too abrasive (Flitz and similar).
 
Well, I will have to disagree to a point. When you have to hog off metal, a Dremel can be a good tool. Or even a bench grinder. Yes, you can do that kind of work with a hard stone, or jeweller's rouge, but you can be collecting Social Security by the time you get done.

Example: The customer wants the magazine follower in his 98 Mauser sloped off so the bolt will close without having to push the follower down. Do you really use a hard stone? And include a cost estimate.

Jim
 
Dremel is indeed not a proper gunsmithing tool. Foredom works better. I routinely use that for some part of trigger job. A wool bob with polish compound works great. I don't use stones either. I prefer ultra fine sand paper backed by needle files.

-TL
 
Well, I will have to disagree to a point. When you have to hog off metal, a Dremel can be a good tool. Or even a bench grinder. Yes, you can do that kind of work with a hard stone, or jeweller's rouge, but you can be collecting Social Security by the time you get done.

Example: The customer wants the magazine follower in his 98 Mauser sloped off so the bolt will close without having to push the follower down. Do you really use a hard stone? And include a cost estimate.
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I have altered a few Mauser followers to allow closing on an empty magazine, but never used a Dremel tool to do it. For that job I just used a bench grinder with a fine wheel and then polished the cut. I don't see a Dremel as useful for that job at all. Nevertheless, I have used Dremels with cut-off wheels to cut the hammer spur off double-actions and then used to to smooth those cuts. But in the long run, Dremel Tools have very limited application in gunsmithing.
 
Well, I will have to disagree to a point. When you have to hog off metal, a Dremel can be a good tool. Or even a bench grinder. Yes, you can do that kind of work with a hard stone, or jeweller's rouge, but you can be collecting Social Security by the time you get done.
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Agreed. A Dremel can be quite the handy gunsmithing tool at times. I've polished several articles in my day... usually revolver hammers and 1911 triggers (the exposed part in the trigger guard, of course) that would have taken forever to polish without a Dremel or a bench grinder and cloth wheel and several grits of abrasive polish (including a pretty course grit). SOOO... agreed, don't try to convince me that a Dremel is never a gunsmithing tool. Heck I've even used emory cloth on occasion (really course metal removal needed).

Trying to polish a trigger? Dahermit's method works well. Stones are probably the best for trigger work. Very little pressure is required.
 
Let's put a bit of context here.

Just to reassure people (hopefully):

I have 3 polishing compounds. One is quite abrasive for rough surfaces. The other two are progressively fine; the last being for a mirror finish.

My dremel attachment of choice is a compact cotton wad shaped like a stubby cylinder: so no polishing stones, no sanding discs what so ever. That is it.

On my crossbow the result were sear and connector mating surfaces that were mirror-like and sharp edges.... and a very crisp break...

Is that still a red flag?
:D


If yes, then it will back to the drawing board as I have no idea where to find Jeweller's Rouge for the time being!!
 
You are fine.

When you are done, check engagement to make sure the angle hasn't become negative and the amount too little. Thoroughly clean the compound off. Mirror surfaces are good, but sharp edges may not.

Not knowing how and what to check is way more dangerous than what tool to use. Remember our motto? Guns don't kill people, people do. Guns are tools, so is a Dremel.

-TL
 
I knew what you were talking about Pond. I still think stones may be the best way to go for trigger work. Even polishing compound on a cloth wheel can ruin a trigger sear if you go nuts with it. In the end though, this...

Not knowing how and what to check is way more dangerous than what tool to use
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If you polish a sear with a Dremel I advise you to use a very fine grit, use little pressure, and go slow. If you're careful you will probably be fine
 
Well, scrap that...

I took a look at the trigger assembly in my 452 and, TBH, the surfaces are small enough and arranged in such a fashion that I feel uneasy about messing with them so I've just put a fresh drop of lube here and there and left it at that.

My crossbow has engagement surfaces of 1/8" and are easy to access which is a different ball-game.
 
Two separate issues.
Dremels are affordable tools with many uses.I don't own one.I prefer a 65,000 rpm air dental handpiece,and Foredom motors.
Better spindle bearings for a more stable cutter,less vibration,smaller diameter all make for better control and results.
But that's not really the point.I do not use those rotary tools on a sear,either.

Sears have critical geometry..Squareness,primary and secondary angles,etc.

To function properly,FORM is critical.

I worked a 1911 sear two days ago.I used a Marvel sear jig,a fine india stone,and a black Arkansas stone.I dressed the stones for flatness on a DMT diamond plate.
My angles were cut precisely. The surface was plenty smooth.How that geometry works with the sear notch in the hammer is critical.

Its a mistake to think that "shiny" is the goal.You get accurate surfaces from another surface with accurate form,like a stone.

Rag buffs,felt,etc make shiny surfaces by wiping out form.
 
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If there's gun parts that are the most risky to mess with it would have to be triggers and sears.
"In the final analysis" it's the craftsman not the tool.
If you have to ask, it's better not to.
 
"...suggestions for someone who plans to put dremel to sear..." Break his arm or the rotary tool. Moreso if he's putting on a stone. Otherwise think 2500 or so RPM with the cloth wheel and jeweller's rouge.
Firearm triggers are not the same as cross bow triggers. Very easy to alter angles etc. on a firearm trigger.
 
Mr. Pond,
You might try this- remove the oil from the engagement surfaces. Then, put a small amount of lithium automotive grease there. It may help the pull considerably.
 
Can't stand a gritty trigger. ..

Let's put a bit of context here.
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Yes, you did get the folks excited. A dremel rotary tool is a valid smithing tool but my last choice and on an application like this, never. If you can't fins a suitable polishing compound then get some crocus cloth and wear it down a bit. ..... ;)

Then, put a small amount of lithium automotive grease there. It may help the pull considerably.
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I prefer a Moly based grease or Gun-Slick on all contact points. Heck, go slow and easy and just do your best. Keep in mind that for the most part, you are wearing the parts down and that's fine. ...... :)

Be Safe !!!
 
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