Advice on a Mosin Nagant

M

markm_04

New member
I am reading a lot of threads on Mosin's and I guess I am starting to get the "itch". I only have a basic knowledge of the gun but I am interested in getting one after reading many posts about them and seeing some in stores for waht I would consider a decent price.

Is there anything specific that I should look for when looking at a Mosin or is there anything to absolutely avoid? I am seeing M91/30's for anywhere from $100 to $150, is this a good price? I think I would like to get one very soon but would like some advice on what to look for/avoid while shopping around. Any help is appreciated, thanks.
 
The MNs are probably one of the most discussed threads on the forum. They were a well-kept secret for a long time but became quite popular as affordable awesome high powered rifles. Prices have soared as a result.

The 91/30s are long and heavy, with typically stiff bolts. They fire the 7.62x54r (rimmed) round. It's quite potent, similar to a .30-06 round. Stout recoil. Rugged rifles. Excellent history, oozing with great war regalia.

Now, around $150-200 should get you a very good shooter 91/30. Spend a few extra dollars for a hex model if available. They are generally a little better quality as they were made with a little more materials, pre-rush during war.

If you want a carbine, they'll be about twice as much money.

There are many different factories that made the rifle, but they are all good. If you just want a shooter, matching numbers and factories are largely irrelevant.

These rifles were made in the millions but are starting to dry up from time to time, and the prices have doubled in 5 years.

You might consider spending $30 on your C&R license and then ordering 5 or so rifles if you really want to get into them. (They are around $130 with a license). That boat has largely sailed, but you might consider it.

Definitely order as much spam can ammo as you can afford, because that is also drying up and has doubled in price recently too.
 
What is the difference between the hex model and the standard model? Is there a way to tell them apart by appearance or do you just have to go off the date stamp and knowing that it was a pre-war year?

I have read about looking over the bore for pitting and checking the rifling and looking to see if it has been counterbored....is there anything else to look closely at?
 
Also consider, with your C&R license, paying $250 or more for a special date, pre-WWII, all matching, minty rifle. You won't be displeased.

The $100 and $150 rifles are fine and dandy, don't pass them up, they won't be around forever.

Do get a M44 carbine. They are about $250, and usually all matching and minty.

Look for nice wood, good metal, uncrowned muzzle, and matching bolt/receiver. Look for smooth action, and be prepared to completely disassemble the rifle and clean it thoroughly.

The WWII production was immense, and hurried. Pre-1942 dates are usually a bit better finish and fit.

Hex receivers are a bonus, but condition is everything. The early receivers are made from hex stock, and have the six flat surfaces just behind the rear sight. The later ones are completely turned round, no flats. It's obvious which is which. The stamping is on the receiver, either it's flat or round.

As far as ammo goes, you can still get surplus in cans for $100 or so, it's corrosive and requires careful cleaning immediately after use. I just buy the new non-corrosive commercial ammo anymore, and reload the brass. If you don't reload, save your brass, find a buddy who reloads, and maybe buy the dies.
 
I ended up returning home with a 1939 M91/30 this afternoon. Got it for $109 which I felt was a pretty good deal. All 4 numbers match and I couldnt find any rust anywhere. It did come with the bayonet, but the numbers did not match the rest of the rifle. I spent some time looking through the 12-15 they had on the shelf and picked out what I thought was the best pre-42 Mosin. The wood is a little rough but no big gouges or anything like that. Would it be worth taking it apart and refinishing the wood to give it a better appearance?

I also bought a box of Herter's 7.62x54r ammo to run through it. I didn't have time to get it cleaned up this evening but the action and headspace all seemed to be in good condition and I am pretty sure it is safe to fire. Is there anything else I need to check before I put a couple of rounds through it? Any advice on the best way to get the cosmo cleaned off it?

I do plan on reloading for it myself, just need to come up with some brass and a set of dies now. The M44 struck my fancy as well kilimanjaro, I will have my eye out for one in the future.
 
Good price! Mine was $179.
As far as refinishing it goes, go for it! It will look nice when you're done.
I think Mosins should be looked at like, as far as changing the gun... Do whatever makes you enjoy it more. I know there's history in these guns and I didn't really want to change mine at first, but I painted it a khaki tan and I really like it. Just my 2¢
 
Brake cleaner will remove the cosmoline from the barreled action. Remove it from the stock, remove the bolt (disassemble the bolt, vids on you-tube as to how to assemble/disassemble- and you need the "multi-tool" firing pin gauge) and clean all parts thoroughly before re-assembling.

Oil all parts with a good gun oil before placing the action back into the stock.

Excessive headspace issues are rare, particularly with re-arsenaled rifles, but does occur (I had one...). Only way to know is with a no-go or field gauge. The vast majority of owners, just shoot 'em.
 
Matching bayonets are not easy to find, don't sweat it.

Go online and get disassembly instructions, take it down and clean it up thoroughly. Boiling water gets rid of the cosmoline, wipe the parts dry and oil 'em up on reassembly. Brake cleaner does the job, too, but water is cheaper!

Grease if it slides, oil if it rotates.

When you strip the shellac off the wood and refinish it, you have an great looking rifle, it's guaranteed.

Herter's ammo is alright. The Prvi Partisan ammo is brass-cased and reloadable, if you know someone who reloads.
 
Thanks for the cleaning advice. I am looking forward to stripping it down and getting it cleaned up. I am still on the fence about refinishing the wood. On one hand it would look nice and even with a new coat of stain or paint of some kind but the originality of it as is is neat also. I think the small scuffs and worn areas add a lot of character and add to the history of the rifle. I know its still new to me and I might change my mind at some point.

I will be reloading ammo myself, just need to find a set of dies and some brass.

Tobnpr, did I understand you correctly that I will need a special tool to remove or take apart the bolt? If so, where can I find such tool and is there anything else that I should look into getting for the rifle?
 
Plain old mineral spirits paint thinner will take off that preservative grease (it's not real cosmoline). If there is some that is really stubborn, acetone or lacquer thinner works well too. Don't let it get on the wood tho. That's likely cheaper than brake cleaner. Take extra time to get the chamber clean.

I cringe at doing anything more than cleaning and making a war relic shootable, but that's just me. If you must remove the shellac, methanol works well.

No need for expensive ammo unless you are going to hunt with it. Comm bloc Spam can ammo is great for fun shooting. Just swab the barrel with some water after shooting to wash out the potassium salt. If you are going to reload ammo for it, have the barrel slugged to be sure of your bullet size.

You'll need the special tool for setting the firing pin protrusion. That's important. The tool should have come with the gun... kinda teardrop shaped. If not, they're cheap and easy to find. I saw one on evilbay for eight bucks shipped. Plenty of Youtube videos on how to use it.
 
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