Advice needed on Mauser 95

I have a Chilean Mauser 95 that was rechambered in 1981 for .308 Nato. It is a nice carbine.

I am interested in making a semi-scout rifle out of it, but recognize that the the Mauser 95 action is not a Mauser 98. I would like to make a light, fast carbine, with forward mount glass and iron sights.

I am not too well versed in the Mauser actions.

Is it worth doing? Is it worth or necessary to add one of the kits to cock on closing, rather on opening?

Any help would be very nice.
 
I'm no expert on this, but the pre-98 models are probably not a good base for a hi-pressure cartridge like the .308. Can't help you with the cock-on-closing question.
 
Bruegger is correct, the small-ring Mauser actions aren't particularly well-suited to high-pressure rounds like the .308. Matter of fact, over on the Gun & Knife forums, there's a recent post by a fellow whose neighbor just lost his fingers to a Spanish small-ring Mauser in .308 that shrapneled, not a pretty story. Of course, some time ago, Kimber did a bunch of them in .308 and sold them, but to me, that's just another accident waiting to happen. If you're gonna keep that as a .308, play it safe with downrated handloads, or even cast bullets, or rebarrel to something like the 7mm Mauser, 6.5x55 Swedish Mauser, .257 Roberts (Not +P), .300 Savage, 6mm Remington, etc. Converting one to cock-on-opening isn't too tough, Speedlock Systems sells a conversion in the Brownell's catalogue. They may require a good aftermarket trigger, though...
 
I don't recommend the pre-98 Mauser actions for .308. Still, I suspect something other than action type is involved when a rifle really lets go. For many years, Norma used Swedish '94 actions in their pressure test barrels and put everything Norma makes through them. They lasted practically forever.

Jim
 
Well, first of all, the Mod. 95 cocks on closing, rather than opening. When you get used to one, they are actually a bit faster to load another round into the chamber, as you don't have the function of recocking the gun and removing the round from the chamber at the same time.
I also second the motion of either loading with rather light reloads or rebarreling back to 7x57. Even then, don't load anything hotter than factory standards. I had a mod-93 that was made into the prettyest little sporter you ever saw, a 7x57. A friend talked me out of it. I warned him not to exceed factory standard. he didn't listen. The results were noy very pretty, and a nice rifle, totally destroyed. A word to the wise.
Paul B.
 
Another thought is to either use a chamber adapter (http://www.mcace.com) or rebarrel it to use 7.62x39. Low pressure AND low cost.

Or, just to be safe, you could sell it to me. :)

Scott
 
Okay, guys and gals, a new wrinkle.

My local Mauser expert says that this action was made in Germany and it is stamped so. He says I will be okay with .308.

Does it make a difference if it is made in Germany as far as quality and metalurgy?
 
Semiauto. I would imagine that the quality of the German made 95's would be of the best, considering the knowlege of the day. However, metallurgy and gun making have come a long way since your rifle was made. The 95 is a tad stronger than the 93, but remember, it was proofed for 45,000 PSI at a time when pressure measurements were not as accurate as they are today. .308 Win. ammo is loaded to an average of 52,000 CUP, which I believe is close to 60,000 plus PSI.
I do believe I would stay on the conservative side of this fence.
Paul B.
 
Back
Top