Adjusting trigger, pre-64 mod. 70 Winchester
- Thread starter 270
- Start date
Look carefully, you should see a screw and a couple of lock nuts in the trigger mechanism. Nearly always all the "adjustment" you need can be done using the built in system. IF you do think you need something more, then its either time for a professional, or an aftermarket replacement.
NOTE! YOU CAN adjust the trigger to the point the rifle is unsafe! Use caution!
If you have any doubts what so ever, take the rifle to a professional gunsmith.
I suggest you get some reference material about the model 70 and its trigger before you actually make any adjustments.
Its not a really complex system, and good results can be had. It just takes a delicate touch, and once made, make sure to lock things down correctly, so it cannot change. If you don't do that part right, the pull can change over time, and could become unsafe.
NOTE! YOU CAN adjust the trigger to the point the rifle is unsafe! Use caution!
If you have any doubts what so ever, take the rifle to a professional gunsmith.
I suggest you get some reference material about the model 70 and its trigger before you actually make any adjustments.
Its not a really complex system, and good results can be had. It just takes a delicate touch, and once made, make sure to lock things down correctly, so it cannot change. If you don't do that part right, the pull can change over time, and could become unsafe.
30-30remchester
New member
I have adjusted the triggers on many pre-64 model 70's but I dont feel comfortable telling how. As stated above they can be adjusted so light that they can be unsafe and also fail to engage the sear. If you study the trigger which is one of the simplest most reliable ever designed you can see what needs to be done. I am not a fan of the Remington 700's or their trigger, but I believe many of those accidental discharges were caused by the owner altering them.
warbirdlover
New member
I've done adjusting on the Model 70 trigger and 44 AMP called it right.
Don't blame you guys for "holding back" for fear of being liable with your advice. I'm the same way.
What's important about my question is I'm asking for more than just a lighter trigger pull. I know I can handle that. It's the creep and overtravel I doubt I should try and leave for a GOOD gunsmith. Note the word GOOD. There's all "flavors" of gunsmiths, as you know.
270
What's important about my question is I'm asking for more than just a lighter trigger pull. I know I can handle that. It's the creep and overtravel I doubt I should try and leave for a GOOD gunsmith. Note the word GOOD. There's all "flavors" of gunsmiths, as you know.
270
trooper3385
New member
That is one thing that unless you know exactly what your doing, I would not recommend trying it. Not that is something that is real hard to do, just that the consequences of a poor trigger job could have lasting effects I guess you could say. The first time you see someone do a trigger job it will make you think twice about walking sound with a round in the chamber and gun on safe. Definetly worth the money to let a gunsmith do it.
I haven't touched mine for over 20 years, so my memory is a little hazy (and I'm not going to tear my .22-250 apart to look, sorry, 
), but if you stick with using the built in adjustments, and do it carefully, if you go too far, you can put it back where it was when you started. No harm, no foul.
My model 70 is a post 64, Varmint, made in the 70s, but it still has the classic trigger used in the earlier rifles. I know you can get a very good pull, with minimal (or none) creep and overtravel, with what is already on the rifle.
I just can't recall exactly how anymore!
Its basically a trial and error process, involving a lot of tiny adjustments and a lot of dryfiring, until you get where you want to be.
Get a snap cap, and go play. Just take it in small amounts, and remember that as long as you don't do any permanent mods (like stoning), you can go back to where you were before you started.
If you absolutely cannot find a setting you are good with, then its time to take it to a good 'smith.
Good luck, and have fun!
), but if you stick with using the built in adjustments, and do it carefully, if you go too far, you can put it back where it was when you started. No harm, no foul.My model 70 is a post 64, Varmint, made in the 70s, but it still has the classic trigger used in the earlier rifles. I know you can get a very good pull, with minimal (or none) creep and overtravel, with what is already on the rifle.
I just can't recall exactly how anymore!
Its basically a trial and error process, involving a lot of tiny adjustments and a lot of dryfiring, until you get where you want to be.Get a snap cap, and go play. Just take it in small amounts, and remember that as long as you don't do any permanent mods (like stoning), you can go back to where you were before you started.
If you absolutely cannot find a setting you are good with, then its time to take it to a good 'smith.
Good luck, and have fun!