Action screws tension? floating? ruger m77 mk II .223

capitan-d

New member
how much should i tighten the action screws on my ruger m77 mkII .223? i just started floating the barrel and im not quite finished...ive heard people using like a credit card to shim the action up a little bit. Should i put this in between the stock and action on the screw thats farthest forward (towards the barrel tip?)

thanks,
devin
 
Gee. I just happen to have one of those. :) I haven't had to mess with the bedding at all, so far. 1/2-MOA for three shots, with most any old ammo. I did put a Timney trigger in it.

Anyhow, I've always shimmed out at the forearm tip after I've free-floated the forearm. I use kitchen wax paper, since it won't absorb moisture. I cut a 1/2" or 3/4" strip. Fold it back and forth for thickness until it takes about a five-pound pull to allow insertion of the shim.

If the groups stil aren't down tight, do like Scorch says and glass-bed. And work up a couple of tailored loads for it...

:), Art
 
whats the point of floating if im going to put a spacer between the stock and the barrel anyways? if i used a wax paper spacer it wouldnt be floating.
 
any links on how to glass bed the action?

ive heard people using like a credit card to shim the action up a little bit. Should i put this in between the stock and action on the screw thats farthest forward (towards the barrel tip?)
-is this correct?
 
i floated the barrel but only from about 1-1.5 inches from the reciever and forward. will this be okay or do i need to totally float the entire barrel?

thanks,
devin
 
I had to pull my M77 out of the safe to look it over before posting.

I assume your intention to free-float the barrel is to improve grouping ability. If I were to free float, here's how I would do it...

Free float by only removing wood from the barrel channel in the stock.
The action sits on a flat shelf within the stock and putting plastic shims under the front would make the action sit cockeyed and put unusual stresses into the receiver (bad for accuracy). When installing the receiver in the stock, check to make sure the magazine box isn't hard bound up between the receiver and floorplate. If it is binding, shim the floorplate and trigger guard out from the stock with some thin cardboard shims cut to shape. The idea is the mag box should not put stress on the receiver. I also check to make sure there is a slight gap between the wood and receiver tang running forward about 3/4 inch from the tip of the tang. That gap also prevents a nasty crack from developing in the wood as the rifle is shot many times.

Snug (not tighten) the forward screw first as it sets at an angle to pull the action tight against a recoil shoulder in the stock. Next snug the middle screw then the rear screw. Then go back to the front screw and tighten it. The front screw should be the tightest of the 3 screws. Then tighten the rear screw. Leave the middle screw snug (don't tighten).

You'll know if the barrel is free-floated if you can slip a dollar bill, folded in half lengthwise, between the barrel and stock from the stock tip back to the receiver.
 
The purpose of the shim is to make the vibrations of the barrel be uniform from shot to shot. Think of the shock aborbers on a car, which dampen the springs. (Which is why the Brits use the term "dampers".)

My uncle taught me this little trick when I was a kid. It works. And it's cheaper than a BOSS.

Keep in mind that it's not always necessary, but I've never seen it hurt anything, groupwise...

:), Art
 
thanks guys!

i floated the barrel but only from about 1-1.5 inches from the reciever and forward. will this be okay or do i need to totally float the entire barrel? if you dont understand that the first 1-1.5" of the barrel comming out of the reciever is not floating. is this a problem?

thanks,
devin
 
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