accuracy problems with '06

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mendozer

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I've been trying to work on accuracy for my 06 and on my first day every with it I got 2" groupings, so I thought that was pretty zeroed in. The next time months later I was all over the paper.

Granted, I KNOW part of it is me and my technique and/or even my flinching. However, I remembered using Remington 165 gr the first day and Privi 150 gr the second. Can bullet change really make THAT BIG of a difference?

Surely there can't just be one bullet weight/brand/load that's right for me and my rifle.

And if so, what am I supposed to do? Buy 10 boxes of random stuff and go to town on it?
 
some guns just like a certain brand in a specific bullet weight.

define "all over the paper".

did you do anything between the first and second shoot? disassembly? cleaning? accidentally banging the scope on a doorjam?

what make and model? heck for that matter what "06" is it? there are quite a few of them these days?
 
OP I'm assuming its a .30-06 based on the weight bullets you are shooting. Its hard to know exactly what made your groups open up so much...

It could be a combination of things. Maybe your rifle needs to be cleaned? Is it copper fouled? It might prefer 165gr bullets over the 150gr. Was it windy vs calm on the days you were shooting. Were you shooting of a bipod, bags, free hand?

I'd clean the rifle with a copper remover I use Boretech and get various 165gr ammo types.Federal, Winchester, Remington, and Hornady all make budget ammo at ~$20 a box. Use a stable rest on a calm day with a clean barrel and make sure your scope isn't moving or losing zero.
 
What kind of scope are you using? I've had cheap/old scopes with wandering 0. Sometimes subtle, sometimes drastic.
 
Some rifles can be VERY ammo picky. I've got a '06 that loves 165's.
Haven't found a 150 or 180 it shoots worth poop, except for some
180 gr Partition handloads with RL-22.

Have an AR that shoots sub .7 moa with (of all things) American Eagle 55's.
Tried it with some cheap Silver Bear 62's--you could not cover 5 shots with
a paper plate at 100 yds.:)

So find what it likes---and buy enough to do you for a while if you can find
it.
 
It's a Savage 111 .30-06 with the Nikon BDC ProStaff scope.
I clean my gun (all of my guns) after EVERY range visit, doesn't matter if it's 10 shots or 100. I use The Otis breach to muzzle kit plus a boresnake. I'm very nit-picky about cleanliness. I do not recall bumping it between shooting sessions. It's encased in a closet all the time.

As far as the second shoot goes, I basically started like 5" NW (referring to compass) of my target, then 3" W, then 1" NW, then 6" W, then, etc. Some good some bad. One time I missed up and left about 4 inches, so I adjusted the scope 4" right and down according to the dial's conversion. Then I missed like 2-3" up and left. On rare occasion I'd miss low. But for the most part it was up and left. That's why I'm thinking it's ME not the scope.

On the first day it started out really BAD (1st didn't hit paper), then each round got closer and closer to the target and my last 5 or 6 were within 2". That was 18 bullets of shooting.

My thoughts were:
does it need to be boresighted? Maybe I should have an experienced guy at the range give it a shot to see? Because of all the bullet inconsistencies should I handload?
With regards to bullets, let's say those Remington Core-Lokt I used first were my rifle's bread and butter. I have to forever buy those? That doesn't make much sense from practicality, especially since selections vary from store to store and I may want specific hunting loads later.
 
All that bore sighting does is get you on the paper at the beginning. No further help, once you're there.

Try two things: First, go back to the CoreLokt. Then, be really serious about controlling any flinch. Maybe add a pad between the butt and your shoulder; maybe use both earplugs and hearguards.

Focus on coordinating sight picture and trigger pull.
 
I just checked my ammo stores. I have corelokt 180gr in the box, new. What I shot was Sellier & Bellot 150gr. Another cheapo I believe. Green and Yellow box threw me off.
 
My .30-06's seem to have generally liked 180gr Core Lokts. It's a good hunting round. S&B likely is of lesser quality than the Remington- at least in my experience anyways. Add to that a 30gr weight difference and that might just add up to your accuracy differences. Just because your rifle liked the 180gr Core Lokts doesn't mean you're stuck with that particular round, maybe just heavier bullets. Try different 180's, then see how 165's treat you.
 
I was thinking lighter bullets would be more accurate, i don't know why. Maybe because .270 is often considered an accurate round and it uses smaller bullets (connect the dots haha).

I will try the 180s next time to see. What would be great is if you could buy individual loads. I know you can buy samples of bullets themselves. But it would be nice to have a company where you can buy a load with X powder of X grains, then X bullet to really see what works best.

Business idea for anyone out there!!!
 
there are some places that will actually do that but your bank accounts would seriously hemorage if you used that service too much. it's not that the 270 is accurate because the bullets are lighter, it's that each rifle as a different rate of twist in their barrel rifling. some companies do a faster twist that handles heavier bullets better but overspins for the light bullets, others are perfect for the light bullets but too slow to stabilize the heavy bullets. yous is likely set up to handle midrange bullets as those are most common.
 
Of all the variables involved in rifle accuracy, the bullet is arguably the most important. Not the designated bullet weight, but the bullet quality and consistency. And, as in other things, you get what you pay for, meaning that the best and most consistent bullets are in the most expensive ammo.

If you handload, you can measure and weigh bullets as part of putting out better ammo. The problem is that there is no rule. Often it takes months or even years to work up THE load that is most accurate in a given rifle. And that load may show no more than average accuracy in another rifle.

Jim
 
I was waiting like a minute between shots.

Maybe the best bet is to get an affordable single load press and trial sample bullets with a standard load, THEN change powder loads. Can this be done pretty cheaply (under $400)?
 
Yes you can get a reloading set up for lots less than $400. Many people start with the Lee hand loading kit.

One thing you have to get is at least one reloading manual such as this one from Hodgon
http://www.hodgdon.com/store/product.php?productid=16149

There are on line sources for reloading but a book is better.

Imho you should start with and stick with a single powder such as H4895. It's a medium speed powder that is the same as used by the government in the .30-06 and is versatile.

Unless you plan to shoot out past 400yds or so you won't need a boattail bullet right away. A standard spire point flattail
like the Hornady sp will do fine.

You might want to invest in a chronograph. They cost $100.

Oh and check that your scope isn't out of whack.
 
I have Lyman's 49th and I've been picking through it. They only have like 10 bullets for it (not including cast).

I won't be able to go to the range for a week or so but I'll go and use the 180 next time see if that makes a difference. If it does, then I'll know for sure it was bullet weight.

As for distance, at this point I won't trust myself to ethically shoot something 400 yds out. This season I'll probably set my limit at 200 (that and my local range caps out at 200)
 
Many things are possible.I am impressed you recognize your own flinching could be the issue.

One old test is have a buddy load your rifle for you,one round at a time.One time,surprise,he hands you an empty rifle.If you are flinching,it will show up.

Another fundamental is to focus on the sight on the target,and focus hard enough to have an image in your mind of exactly where the crosshairs were on the target when the rifle recoiled and the scope blacked out.

Its good if you have a target on the bench,point right to it,and say"It was a 8 at three oclock."

You might even write it down.That is "Calling the shot"

If you can do that,you know your eyes were open when the gun fired.

I don't know about S+B ammo,never used it.Those Savage rifles have a very good reputation for accuracy.

I just don't think they make very many Savage 30-06 bolt rifles that won't shoot better than 2 in at 100 yds.You might check the front and rear guard screws for about 60 in lbs of torque.Loose scope mount screws can mess you up.

Good luck!
 
I've been trying to work on accuracy for my 06 and on my first day every with it I got 2" groupings, so I thought that was pretty zeroed in. The next time months later I was all over the paper.
Click to expand...

Go practice, then practice more and more.

I had a friend who I grew up with, we were like twins. Anything I could shoot so could he and vica versa. When we got into our mid to late 20's, he was on the road with his job nearly year round. I would always have his rifle set up and ready for him when deer season came around. He would inverably start off by wanting to crank the scope one way or the other after only three or four shots. I would have to stay on him to leave things alone and simply SHOOT. After a day at the range, and a box or two of bullets, he would be back in the groove and putting them into 1" or less clusters. Like the above mentioned friend setting up the empty chamber , yep I did this to him several times until he caught on and would check it. And yes he would jerk the heck out of it someitmes lifting the fore end up off the front rest.

There are a ton of folks out there who do the same thing year after year and never realize that most of it is simply trigger time. Once you sit out there, take your time, shoot one shot then get up walk away for 3-5 minutes and come back and repeat. You will see that things will start to come together for you. As mentioned above, keep things in perspective. New rifle, new loads, possibly new to caliber shooter. Keep it slow and steady and concentrate on doing the same thing time and time again. Even dry firing between shots several times and watching what your target picture does through your scope will help.

Pick a brand, and bullet weight and stick with it long enough to determine if it IS actually the rifle, the bullets, you, or everything combined.
 
The OP, if he's flinching, might consider using another finger to pull the trigger. I suggest he try the 'road rage signaling finger'. You can't flinch if you can't anticipate when the rifle will fire. The other finger, which he probably hasn't used as a trigger finger will be very difficult to anticipate. Worth a try.
 
Before u shoot, setup with your rest and get into position. Dry fire as if you were going to shoot. If you can't follow the sight when you squeeze the trigger you are flinching. Keep working at till you can follow be sight. Then shoot your groups. When dry firing the sight should never leave your sight or the aiming point
 
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