Aaaargh! P95 trigger driving me nuts!

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"Just get a sig/h&k/colt".... just had to say that before some jack@ss did:p

My P95 was my first 9mm and I have grown quite fond of it. The trigger is gritty though... first the take up, then creep, creep, break. I'm trying to eliminate the creep, creep portion and aren't having any luck. It's really messing up my aim, I know the gun is very accurate and my other pistols don't require nearly as much concentration on trigger pull.

I have detail stripped the pistol before; today I used a dremel to polish the trigger bar and the hammer strut. No noticeable improvements. The sear looks fine to me (no pitting or unusual wear) and I can't reach the hammer b/c it seems to be tamper-proof (permanently pinned to the frame).

Any tips? I am not ready to spend $100 on a trigger job.
 
"Just get a sig/h&k/colt".... just had to say that before some jack@ss did
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Are you sure you beat the first jackass?:D

Read about some stuff in latest Am Handgunner. Sorry I don't have the article handy, but it's a compound with 3 different grit levels that you can put into the action to smooth it up.

I'm assuming you've eliminated the safety lever/plunger system as being the problem.
 
"...used a dremel..." Lose the rotary tool(too easy to ruin the pistol) and have a proper trigger job done. It's worth $100. Just changing to springs will help though.
 
-I do dry fire it a lot with snap caps. Maybe 1k rds. and 500,000 dry fires:confused:
-that compound sounds interesting, I'll have to look some up...
-I have a dremel; I am an artist, not a fool. I know the dremel has few uses in gunsmithing but it worked well and fast enough in this case. I'm not so dumb as to use it to grind/polish the sear and hammer.
 
The article is "Trigger Jobs in a Jar?" on P71 this issue AHG. It's called Brownells 555 Polish-O-Ray. Comes in three different tubes.

Seems to be tailor made for guns we're seeing these days with trigger housings that don't come apart with no apparent way to slick things up.

For more conventional pistols apply the three mixtures in order to the hammer strut, upper seat in the hammer body and sides of the hammer. Flush out with mineral spirits in between.

I suspect you should keep that stuff away from where the hammer engages the sear.:eek:

Gunsmiths have been using it for a long time to fix up bad trigger pulls. Bet you thought gunsmiths always took your gun apart and carefully polished the surfaces, didn't you?

Black compound--thirty pulls (snapcaps recommended) then flush. Same for grey and white.

There's a caution about too much of a good thing. Don't over do it.

Think I'll call Brownells on Monday. Maybe I can borrow my neighbors P229 and practice before I do mine.:D
 
Nnobby, I have not eliminated the safety plunger system and am curious. I think part of the problem is in the system that raises/enables the firing pin.
 
To eliminate the creep you will need to lessen the sear engagement, this is best done on the hammer hooks but you can stone some relief on the sear and help. If you don't understand how the hammer and sear interact don't try it yourself.
 
Send it back

Send the gun back to Ruger. You need to explain the problem to them in writing. Get shipping instructions from them They will send you a shipping container.

Bud of mine just got back his P85 MKII. Gritty, creepy trigger was cured at no cost.
 
Contacted Ruger...

In light of a little FTF problem that creeps up more often now, I contacted Ruger about that and the trigger.

About the trigger...."if it meets specs, we cannot repair it".:eek:
I think I know what that means...:(

I have four Ruger handguns and I was looking at a mini...but now I dunno, I'll be mad if they won't improve my nasty, creepy trigger that most likely meets their specs.

I did find more accuracy out of the pistol by squeezing tighter with my middle finger/thumb.
 
Remember what a gun like the P-95 "is". It isn't a target piece. it's a rough-duty carry gun that will take a tremendous amount of neglect and abuse and be ready at a moments notice.

If you want a high-cap 9mm that leans more toward target shooting, look at things like a browning HiPower with some trigger work by Cylinder and Slide.
Another good choice might be a .22 Ruger Mk-III.

You should think about getting some professional training on firearms handling, from the sound of things. Two or three days of dry firing and one-shot draw-and-fires from the leather will make you forget about the trigger slop and focus on your front-sight focus and putting hits in the A-zone. I bet you have a local IDPA/USPSA/bowling pin league nearby too- you'll learn WAY more when you are scored on your results than you ever will from casual range time.

Try this: Every night, dry fire the gun in a SAFE direction for half an hour. Put heavy effort into focusing on your front sight- make sure the sights stay aligned through the trigger stroke. As soon as you get tired and lose focus, put it away for the night.

Then get some real instruction.
 
To eliminate the creep you will need to lessen the sear engagement...
Click to expand...
Polishing the sear/hammer is often sufficient to solve the problem. Creep is often caused when the sear & hammer move against each other, catch, move again, catch again, etc. If the surfaces are smooth, when they start slipping against each other they'll slip all the way rapidly without catching.
I can't reach the hammer b/c it seems to be tamper-proof (permanently pinned to the frame).
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The hammer is not permanently pinned to the frame, it comes out easily once you've got enough other parts out of the gun.

I can't remember exactly how it comes apart at the moment and don't have the motivation to go pull one apart for this thread. Sorry... :o

I THINK that if you remove the mainspring to relieve the tension on the hammer, the hammer pin will shake out as long as you have the ejector in the forward position.
 
Shake! Ha!

No, I don't think it will be shaking out anytime soon. The reason I thought it was permanently pinned was because you can't see a pin hole on the left side; I assumed ruger epoxied the pin in place.
 
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