A Question About Cleaning Stuff
- Thread starter DLRaw
- Start date
Good choice on the pistol. There's tons of information on this topic under the maintenance heading and on other discussion boards and I am guessing that the administrator will lock you out and bump you there. Liking a challenge, I'll try to sneak in some advice under the wire!
My philosophy is to keep it simple. Before you even shoot the gun, clean it as follows:
Field strip the pistol as described in the manual. Using Hoppe's #9 or BreakFree CLP, swab down all metal parts and coat the inside of the barrel. Leave the copper colored material where ever you find it on the slide and frame; it is intended for the break in period and will soon wear off.
Next, run patches through the barrel with Hoppe's or CLP to remove any debris that came to you from the factory. Wipe down all metal parts to remove an debris (grit and dust) from many possible months of storage.
Lubricate your pistol as recommended in the manual and never forget to place that important drop of oil where the trigger bar and connector meet. You'll find that junction where the little hooked piece stands up on the back right side of the open frame. To see the friction point, gently squeeze the trigger and you will see the movement. Reassemble your pistol and you are ready to go.
I recommend that you clean your pistol after each 240-300 rounds, a little sooner on the first session. Because the Glock barrels have polygonal rifling, they tend to accumulate debris faster then traditional rifling. When cleaning, use a good lead remover (any commercial brand will do) and a copper remover (I like Shooter's Choice). Don't be afraid to scrub the barrel with a good brash brush, making sure to propect the muzzle crown and chamber from abrasion from the cleaning rod.
A final note: Always make sure that there is no debris, including lubricant, in your barrel or chamber before shooting - very dangerous pressures could result. Also, never oil the inside of your mags. The oil can affect the primers and also be transported into the barrel.
Hope this helps. Good luck.
My philosophy is to keep it simple. Before you even shoot the gun, clean it as follows:
Field strip the pistol as described in the manual. Using Hoppe's #9 or BreakFree CLP, swab down all metal parts and coat the inside of the barrel. Leave the copper colored material where ever you find it on the slide and frame; it is intended for the break in period and will soon wear off.
Next, run patches through the barrel with Hoppe's or CLP to remove any debris that came to you from the factory. Wipe down all metal parts to remove an debris (grit and dust) from many possible months of storage.
Lubricate your pistol as recommended in the manual and never forget to place that important drop of oil where the trigger bar and connector meet. You'll find that junction where the little hooked piece stands up on the back right side of the open frame. To see the friction point, gently squeeze the trigger and you will see the movement. Reassemble your pistol and you are ready to go.
I recommend that you clean your pistol after each 240-300 rounds, a little sooner on the first session. Because the Glock barrels have polygonal rifling, they tend to accumulate debris faster then traditional rifling. When cleaning, use a good lead remover (any commercial brand will do) and a copper remover (I like Shooter's Choice). Don't be afraid to scrub the barrel with a good brash brush, making sure to propect the muzzle crown and chamber from abrasion from the cleaning rod.
A final note: Always make sure that there is no debris, including lubricant, in your barrel or chamber before shooting - very dangerous pressures could result. Also, never oil the inside of your mags. The oil can affect the primers and also be transported into the barrel.
Hope this helps. Good luck.
First field strip the gun. With a paper towel wipe away any packing grease on the barrel or slide. DO NOT WIPE AWAY THE COPPER COLORED LUBRICANT. This is there to polish and wear in the metal to metal contact on the slide. Re-assemble the gun. I suggest firing 300-500 rounds through it (preferrably something slightly hot, Blazer will work great but no cheap middle east surplus because of the fouling). Now completely field strip the gun. Using an old toothbrush and rag wip and brush the gun clean. Use a toothpick for nook and crannies. Clean barrel like any other weapon with clean rags and solovent and finish with slightly (and Glock means SLIGHTLY) oiled cloth. Rub a little oil (as the diagram in the manual) on the top inside of the slide, around the barrel, and (I use a q-tip anlong the length) the slide rail. Then one drop at the rearmost part of the frame (you'll see it in the diagram) where the trigger mechanism breaks to fire the gun. However tempting, do not over oil the gun. The Glock doesnt need it and the oiled gunk can clog the firing pin and extractor lanes within the frame. For more detailed questions seek out a local Glock armorer. This thing is more durable than you can believe but they do still need proper maintenence. If you ever get any really bad gunk I suggest Gun Scrubber spray. Good Luck and you will not be disappointed!
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VictorLouis
New member
DL, please read my post under the thread "General Smithing Helps". 
VERY good choice, I think you will be very happy. The G19 is a great all around self defense weapon (easy to carry, reliable, rust proof, light, cheap to shoot etc etc).
Even though you may be tempted, do not baby this gun with too much lubrication or aftermarket parts. It works best just like it is, right out of the box.
Never ever ever lubricate the striker ("firing pin") area with wet lubricants (oil etc) because it will gather dirt and you may get light primer strikes. All you need to lube (lightly) are the rails and the barrel hood.barrel. And, the most important part is a dab of grease (I suggest grease because this is the only true load bearing area on a Glock) on the trigger connector (see the link below).
I use Simple Green for cleaning and it works great! I get it at Costco very cheap. If you want to spend more and live in luxury, then use Gun Scrubber because it is so easy.
Run the gun as dry as reasonably possible. Oil attracts dirt. It does not need much lube, just a very thin film on a couple of areas listed above.
Check out this link for great pictures and instruction on how to clean and lube your Glock
Glock FAQ's: http://www.glockmeister.com/faq.html
Glock cleaining: http://www.glockmeister.com/gclean.html
Glock lubrication: http://www.glockmeister.com/glubric.html
Even though you may be tempted, do not baby this gun with too much lubrication or aftermarket parts. It works best just like it is, right out of the box.
Never ever ever lubricate the striker ("firing pin") area with wet lubricants (oil etc) because it will gather dirt and you may get light primer strikes. All you need to lube (lightly) are the rails and the barrel hood.barrel. And, the most important part is a dab of grease (I suggest grease because this is the only true load bearing area on a Glock) on the trigger connector (see the link below).
I use Simple Green for cleaning and it works great! I get it at Costco very cheap. If you want to spend more and live in luxury, then use Gun Scrubber because it is so easy.
Run the gun as dry as reasonably possible. Oil attracts dirt. It does not need much lube, just a very thin film on a couple of areas listed above.
Check out this link for great pictures and instruction on how to clean and lube your Glock
Glock FAQ's: http://www.glockmeister.com/faq.html
Glock cleaining: http://www.glockmeister.com/gclean.html
Glock lubrication: http://www.glockmeister.com/glubric.html