A mini-review, Belt Mountain base pins...

T

tex_n_cal

New member
Having bought a Bisley .45 Colt Blackhawk a few weeks ago, I noticed a fair amount of slop in the cylinder, and decided to order one of the Belt Mountain base pins.

A concern was that the writeups on this product simply said they "fit tighter", but no one had any specifics, making me wonder if snake oil was being sold. Since the product is fairly inexpensive, I ordered one from Brownells, in the #5 style, which is a little easier to grasp than the stock Ruger pin.

The old pin measured .2466 to .2472" on my micrometer, depending on where you measure it. The new Belt Mountain pin measures a full .2500, and doesn't vary by more than +/- .0002". It installed quite easily in my Ruger, slipped right in place in both cylinder and frame. The cylinder is now noticeably tighter:)

The instructions caution that some polishing may be required on some guns, to get the new pin to fit, so my Bisley may be an exception. In any case, I think it's a nice product, and reasonable in price:D
 
I very much appreciate your info. I've thought about picking one of the Belt Mountain pins for my Blackhawk .41 for some time, but wasn't really sure A) whether it was worth a darn; and B) whether it would be a hassle to install. Now I know - thanks!
 
The near-universal word I've heard on 'em is they're worth doing on most Ruger SAs.

As a bonus, most have a set-screw that prevents the base pin from coming loose under monster recoil. When Linebaugh or other gunsmiths build "monster five-shot guns" they *always* recommend such a set-screw, and it's actually cheaper to just get a Belt Mountain pin versus putting a set-screw in a factory pin.
 
I had a single-six that was spitting lead like crazy. I was going to send it back to Ruger but a friend recommended a Belt Mountain Base pin. Had to do a little polishing but it worked like a charm. No more spitting lead. All my other single-actions never had the problem.
 
I bought one for my 45/45 and one for my .44 one fit no problem the other i had to use emery cloth which was no big deal. I bought mine directly from Belt Mt.
 
I consider it a necessary addition to any Ruger SA. I have put them on all of mine and won't fire a new one until it has been installed. My first .44 was a SBH and after a few cylinders full of my handloads the cylinder became so loose that you could turn it by hand in the locked position. A Base Mtn. pin fixed it and I have never shot another one without one of their pins.
 
Bought the Belt Mountain pin with the set screw for my SBH; purchased directly from Belt Mountain. Had some trouble with the delivery and received two (2!) phone calls from Kellye (the owner) to clear it up. Now that's service!!

Tightened up my cylinder and works great! Just remember to bring the hex wrench with you to the range in case you need to remove the cylinder.......... I forgot the first trip.
 
I ordered one from Brownell's because it was fashioned after Elmer Kieth's No. 5 and I like the way it looked. I haven't installed it because my U.S. Firearms SAA is still unfired at this time. If I decide to shoot it I'll install the Belt Mountain base pin first.
 
I have one in my Single Six, .30 Carbine Blackhawk, .357 Blackhawk, .45 Colt Blackhawk, and my Super Blackhawk.

None of them required fitting. I honestly feel that my accuracy improved in the SBH after the installation of the new base pin. I am sold on them.
 
I recently purchased six of the knurled locking base pins and four installed without a hitch. The two that require some fitting are both Vaquero models. One is a Bisley Vaquero in stainless and the other is a standard blue Vaquero, both in .44 Rem Mag. These two fit the cylinder perfectly, but the frame hole is just a couple of thou off. My smith is going to do the fitting for me.
Rich
 
Questions on installation: Is it really necessary to remove the ejector rod and housing per instructions to properly fit the base pin? If so, then wouldn't you have to do that every time you removed the base pin to drop out the cylinder for cleaning? Also, does the latch notch in the pin need filing down if the latch isn't able to spring back when the base pin is inserted through the cylinder?
 
I didn't and don't have to remove the E rod on my 7 1/2 bbled BH to install or completely remove the pin but do on my 5 1/2 bbled BH. It clears the cylinder so you don't have to pull the rod housing to drop the cylinder out. I'm not sure if theres enough clearance for a 4 5/8 bbl.
 
The set screw is a good idea, but adding an extra power base pin latch spring will do the most good of holding the pin in place.
 
Why doesn't Ruger buy them and install them in the first place? If they are so good, and by all the accounts I've ever heard, they are, how much would it add to the bottom line of Ruger's SA line?
DAL
 
To date, I have not installed a Belt Mountain base pin. None of the Rugers I have are sloppy, and what problems I did have, would not have been helped by the new base pin. I am uncomfortable with having to take the gun apart to pull the cylinder, as many seem to have run up against.
 
I have a number of Ruger Single Actions: Two Single Sixes, Blackhawk in .357, Blackhawk in .45 Colt, Super Blackhawk in .44 Mag. I have Belt Mountain Base Pins in all of them. I don't have to take anything apart to remove the cylinder in any of them.
 
Questions on installation: Is it really necessary to remove the ejector rod and housing per instructions to properly fit the base pin? If so, then wouldn't you have to do that every time you removed the base pin to drop out the cylinder for cleaning? Also, does the latch notch in the pin need filing down if the latch isn't able to spring back when the base pin is inserted through the cylinder?
Click to expand...

The one that you have to remove the ejector rod housing is the #5 Keith style alright, but it has a different set screw. Most of their models have an allen head set screw. If you tighten it too tight you can put an ever so slight bend in the pin and cause slow or no rotation of the cylinder.

The other set screw actually enters a hole that is drilled into the barrel. To put the jig on the barrel for drilling, the ejector rod housing has to come off initially, but never again. This "Bowen Lock" type of pin is their strongest as you'd have to shear the screw in half for the pin to move forward. Also, there is no chance of bending the base pin causing binding since the screw goes into a hole and does not bind into the barrel as the allen head model does.

I've got two pins for a couple Bisley's and their installation kit for drilling. Very simple and straightforward (just make sure the hole is in the right place since you can't put metal back too easy).
 
Thanks for the info.

I have been wanting one for my BH.

I have held off cause of the cause of the "warning" thet polishing may be required on some gun.


I may just jump in... or not cause it is not "broken"


Snake
 
I have bought 3 so far. No polishing required. My two flattop .44Spec 5 1/2" revolvers 'required' the base pin, because on a .44Spec the #5 just 'belongs' there :) . The third one (first one) I put on my .45 Colt Vaquero to tighten up the slop a bit. It did and I feel it is a bit more accurate now too. All three work great! I don't use the set screw as my loads are never that 'hot'. Recommend them.
 
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