A little Hammer problem.

S

Sure Shot Mc Gee

New member
I inspect and clean all my rifles once a year whether they need it or not. This occasion it was my T/C hawken 54s turn last night. It didn't really need to be cleaned. But as I said, it was its turn. Besides dealing with its barrel. This time I took all its firing mechanisms apart for a look see with a light oiling in mind. I noticed something I haven't seen before. Inside its hammer cup it appears to have some corroding going on. And may well be spreading over to its cups sidewalls.{I never dry fire. And have only used CCI Mag #11s on top of Knight Hot Shot nipples since day one.} So I cleaned the cup good with 50/50 water mix of Ballistol and lightly oiled with CLP (no old copper jackets were found) so why the corrosion? Is there a coating other than CLP I can apply in the cup itself to slow or stop this corrosion problem altogether?
Any and all comments are welcome.
 
so why the corrosion?
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It could be that it was exposed to humidity and/or corrosive salts were still present on the metal after the last cleaning.
There are a lot of good corrosion protection products but I don't know if they will defeat corrosive salts for very long.
Eezox Gun Care is one of the best protectants against moisture.
Many well stocked gun shops carry it for $5 or $6, or check eBay.

http://www.eezox.com/gun-care.html

http://www.eezox.com/
 
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I haven't a clue why its happening. CCI caps shouldn't corrode. What I seen was a fair amount of rust covering the inside of the hammer cup. I know now what its from!!! I just now figured it out. :D I store my rifles in a standing upright position with its hammer down on its nipple. If there were any water after barrel cleaning left in its firing channel I bet it migrates out its nipple over time. That way no matter what I put on the hammer after cleaning wouldn't hold up. (CLP or whatever) What do you think arcticap possible or not?
 
There's probably some kind of moisture involved.
But the "invisible" chemical residue from Pyrodex can sometimes be notorious for damaging metal. Mixing that with humidity can really wreak havoc.
I would try the Eezox. Since it's heavier than water, the water can't permeate it to get below it.
Whereas with a coat of oil, that will always float on water which allows the water to get underneath it to cause rust.
 
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Blow-Back !!

Any and all comments are welcome.
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Besides the spark from caps, you are also getting a larger amount of "blow-back" from your main charge. Unless I missed something, you did not list what propellant you are using. The corrosive residue is greater when you use BP or Pyrodex. When and if you pop a cap on an empty rifle, you will notice that you cap is sill in tact and in place. While firing, you will notice that they will be split wide open and sometimes, hanging in your hammer cup. Again, that is how strong the blow-back can be. That is also why some folks use flash-cups on nipple and drum assemblies. They direct this blow-back away from the stock barrel and drum. .... ;)


Be Safe !!!
 
Pahoo >powder used: Gorex 2FF. Quit using pyrodex. 90-grs of Black under a ball is what this 54 requires.

arcticap: I'll willing to give it a try. > Eezox .
 
Still Sulphur !!

Goex is black powder and has a sulphur component and that be the bad boy, after ignition or the resulting "Salts". .... ;)

I still recall a poster on my dentist's wall that showed a picture of a wedge of cherry pie. Tha caption read; Five minutes after eating me, I start eating your teeth.

SALTS; One half hour after creating me, I start eating your gun .... :eek:

Be Safe !!!
 
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