A dead horse, I'm sure...

Red Label

New member
I have decided that I will have some sort of long-range hunting rifle now in a synthetic stock. I was originally torn between the 300 Win Mag and the 7mm Rem Mag. But after careful consideration, I chose the .300 because of slightly superior ballistics (very close as fas as I could tell) and greater availability of ammo. Now I am torn between the .300 Win Mag and a good old 30-.06. Yeah, the .06 is far out-classed by the Winchester, but the .06 is way more available and affordable to feed. Eventually I'd love to have both, but which should I buy first? I suspect that most will say to get an .06 because it is such a standard, but I am still torn. Any arguements and ideas that I have missed are much appreciated. thanks...
 
hmmm.

If you reload, I would say get either one. However, you do have to take account of how much powder those cartridges hog compared to their performance. That costs in the long run. I say go for what you like, either way you are going to have a shooter that you will enjoy for many years to come. And if this is not a good enough answer, buy one now and then buy the other later. ;)
 
El Rojo is right. if you reload, go ennee meennee minnee moe and pick your new rifle.

One thing though. That short neck on the .300 WinMag can be a pain in the butt.

Another thing to consider is that using the .300 WinMag's somewhat larger case, it takes more powder to get the same velocities as many '06 loads.

I had a .300 WinMag. I did not like it. I got rid of it and will probably never replace it. I vote for the '06.

Doc Hudson
 
Since I've shot the same rifle for a bit over 30 years, and shoot "out in the boonies" more often than most folks, I'm more confident--and maybe more capable--that I can get proper bullet placement at 300 to 400 yards. And, I've done just that.

If I was a little less sure of myself, and wanted a bit of insurance, I'd go the .300 Win Mag over my usual '06. From a velocity and energy standpoint, it's an '06 with about 150 extra yards. That's more important with long-range elk than with most deer.

Ammo availability from a store in Resume Speed, Oklahoma, only matters if you're eaten up with brain fade and left your ammo at home when you set out on your hunting trip.

Last point: Guys have $1,000 to $1,500 or more in a rifle/scope; several hundred to a few thousand dollars in a hunting lease or a guided hunt--and worry about an extra ten bucks on a box of ammo? And they're gonna use up three or four rounds during a season or hunt? Duh?

:), Art
 
Hey Red Label,
1) What do you consider "Long Range"?
2) What is the largest critter you intend to hunt with this new rifle?
3) Where will the majority of your hunting take place?
4) Have you shot one or both of these calibers before?
5) Do you reload?
6) How often do you get to go to the range?
7) How many rounds do you "typically" shoot per year?
8) How much woood, could a Woodchuck chuck, if.....Na, only kidding on this one!!!

Not trying to put you on the spot by any means of the imagination. I think all the calibers you mentioned are just great (including the 7mmMags). And it seems you are getting some responses without this info, so maybe it isn't really needed. But, it would help me make a recommendation if I knew just a bit more about what you have in mind.

Good hunting and clean 1-shot kills, Hot Core
 
Thanks for your input guys. It is much appreciated.

Hot Core -
1) 500 yards+
2) deer/elk/bear/smaller game
3) anywhere/everywhere
4) neither
5) not yet
6) 2-3 times monthly
7) lots, but probably only several hundred max of this
8) an eastern woodchuck, or a... LOL

I just want to aquire and have on hand a long range rifle that could serve me in many capacities should the need or desire ever arise. I don't hunt now. But would if I had to feed my family. I'd like to have something that could do the job cleanly and quickly. Not into causing animal suffering, or tracking wounded game. I want to get one while I still can... Thanks.
 
Geting started in high power shooting

Red Label--

Thanks for your candid revelaton that you are not a trained half-mile marksman. We all gotta start somewhere.

May I respectfully suggest that you look around and try to find a friend who already has a good, solid, properly set-up hunting rifle in .30-06 or maybe .308 and go to the range with them some time? Buy a couple of boxes of, say, 165 gr. hunting ammo and get acquainted with that one rifle, just to have a basis for comparison. Shoot a couple of groups from the bench at 100 yards. It doesn't matter if the rifle is striking at exact point of aim for YOU. You'll be on paper if it is someone's hunting rig. Than move back to 200 and shot a bit there. It could be that this is all the rifle you want to shoot for a while.

This could be easier than you would think. Most shooters I know sure don't mind letting an interested beginner shoot their rifle, especially if the beginner is sharing in the cost. You certainly won't wear out the rifle with 40 rounds or so.

I realize this research can be time consuming. Most of us don't have a hundred-yard range with bench rest on our front porch, or 500-yard targets in our "back yard," like at least one of the responders hereupon. ;)

Just a thought.

Best regards, and good luck.
Johnny
 
Hey Red Label, Now I've got enough to work with and understand a bit better what you have in mind.

Actually, all the previous answers are "still good".


Here is the problem, hunting Big Game (like Elk) at a very long distance (over 500yds) is real difficult for the folks that have the correct equipment and spend many hours both on the Range and Afield learning about trajectory, wind and concentration. Now, the "best" rifle to accomplish this task (between the two you mentioned) would be the 300WinMag. Even better would be a 30-378Wby. However, the BIG problem is learning to properly control them.

Let me give you a short example, it would be like buying a 1200 Harley for an 8 year old that has never ridden a bicycle. Now, it could be done, but it is the absolute "hardest" way to go about achieving the goal.


Johnny mentioned shooting a buddies rifle to see what you are getting into, and that is an excellent idea. It would really be best to get a 308Win and wear out a barrel or two before you try to get where you are going. Once you do that, you will have enough "experience" judging the environmental conditions to "consider" Long Range shooting at Big Game.

But let me address some of your answers:
1) 500 yards+
2) deer/elk/bear/smaller game

You need to consider the toughest critter in the bunch and that would be the Elk, unless you meant Grizzly. And some folks do kill Elk beyond 500yds, but they have many, many years of "trigger-time" in the field. Here though, the "Best" answer concerning equipment to accomplish this task is a huge case of powder, big sleek bullets, a well built rifle, a very high power scope and a Lazer Range finder.

3) anywhere/everywhere

This means you will be faced with temperature extremes, rain, snow, fog and wind seemingly coming from every direction at once. Only shooting Afield will get this experience for you so you have any chance at all of making a clean kill.

4) neither

This goes back to the Harley/bicycle example. It really is best to work your way up. Otherwise, you will really disappoint yourself.

5) not yet

You need to begin Reloading for which ever rifle you decide on as quickly as possible. It will make you more "self-reliant" (which seems to be a concern for you) and will get the cost of ALL that huge amount of ammo you are going to be firing under control.

6) 2-3 times monthly

If by this you mean pistols/revolvers on a range, that is a good start, but not what you need for the long range shooting portion of your desire. You need L-o-n-g Distance shooting time with the rifles on the Range and Field time with the rifles just shooting at dirt clods, rocks or Varmints at various "unknown" distances. Time Afield is a must.

7) lots, but probably only several hundred max of this

This is good. The more the better, as in 1200-up. And as said before, Reloading is the best way to be able to afford the amount of rounds you will need to shoot.

8) an eastern woodchuck, or a... LOL


RL: I just want to aquire and have on hand a long range rifle that could serve me in many capacities should the need or desire ever arise.

HC: Interesting idea, but you need to start practicing as quickly as possible if you ever want to be able to make those 500+yd shots. If you are determined to the above, go with the 300WinMag, but I'd recommend the 308Win to start. By the time you get good with a 308Win, you might want a 338-378Wby or something that has not even been released yet.

RL: I don't hunt now. But would if I had to feed my family.

HC: This is a serious problem. Hunting like you are talking about takes years to learn. A few folks get beginners luck and go kill a Deer on the first outing and you will see those stories in some of the Gun Rags. But, Hunting is not something you do like going to the grocery story. It just takes time to learn the methods.

RL: I'd like to have something that could do the job cleanly and quickly. Not into causing animal suffering, or tracking wounded game. I want to get one while I still can...

HC: I completely agree with those concepts. I'm really not trying to discourage you. It is just that you are trying to reach the "end" before you have gotten to the "beginning". And there is a lot to learn along the way. The quicker you get started, the better.

Good hunting and clean 1-shot kills, Hot Core
 
I'd vote for the .308 also

Red Label, The advice given to you by Hot Core is sound advise.

I have a friend that elk hunts with a .308, not my first choice, but this man is short with smaller arms and fingers, and shoots a Model 7 Remington in .308. I handload 140 grain Barnes X bullet loads for him, and this rifle and load combination is all he uses on elk, deer, and black bear.

If you would want to go with bullets over 180 grain then the -06 is a good choice. If not the .308 will do most anything the -06 will with less powder, unless you want to use 180 grain bullets or heavier.

Hot Core, Are you still at HA? Is the heat still turned up on high over there?-----------Chainsaw
 
Hey CHAINSAW, It seems to come and go. Handloading has calmed back down now that the folks who think they should "talk down-to" the beginners have become silent. Only thing going on, is on Rifles where there are some interesting Savage Threads. Seems like people either like Savage Rifles, or they have never had one and talk trash about them. I like to come over here to TFL and relax. Seems that Art has developed a "calmer more tranquil" site in the Threads I visit here. (THANKS ART!!!) Even see some humor over here that no longer exists at HA, which speaks very well of the posters over here.


Hey Red Label, I also totally agree with the distinction made by CHAINSAW as when the 30-06 should be selected over the 308Win. The extra space in the case allows for more efficient use of the "slower Powders" which get the heavier bullets moving up to their full potential.

Good hunting and clean 1-shot kills, Hot Core
 
Thanks Johnny, Hot Core, and Chainsaw. I really appreciate the time you spent in your responses.

I need to clarify a few things here.

I grew-up hunting and shooting. I had my own .22 at 5 years old, my own .30-30 at 8, my own 870 Wingmaster 12 gauge at 12, my own Browning 'sweet 16' at 14, my own Winchester Model 71 .348 at 18, and so on...

My Dad was a certified "gun nut" who owned everything from a collection of the original Colt-Walker .44 black powder pistols (Josie Wales?) to several Sharps buffalo guns and everything in between. He has always reloaded, and I have done it with him in the past.

We used to hunt all kinds of game, including deer and elk. But we did all the big-game hunting with more "vintage" short-range weapons like the .348, .30-30, and several black-powder muzzle loaders.

I am a good marksman for one who doesn't practice much. My dad and I used to shoot pencils at 30 yards with our .22LR's and I could outshoot him using my standard rifle sights against his scope.

Now I realize that all this does not qualify me as a skilled large-caliber marksman, but I am not a novice to shooting or hunting. I love shooting my 12 gauge with 3" magnum slugs BECAUSE of the kick. The feel of that power against my shoulder is a thrill for me. So recoil is not a problem for me. That .348 without any kind of recoil pad was a little painful, but that's about it.

So I'm not so sure that a comparison to an 8 year-old wanting a Harley is a fair comparison. (It was a little condescending -- but you had no idea of my experience.) Maybe a better one would have been a motocrosser who wants a Harley. I different style of motorcycling, but not out of reach or too difficult.

I intend to practice and seek excellence in this endeavor, I do that in everything that I do. But I do not intend to hunt at this time. My heart is not in it. But should the neccessity arise for me, I want to be prepared. Let me repeat -- I grew-up hunting. I know how to kill. And kill cleanly. And I may do it again. Just not at this time.

I shoot pistols, shotguns, and rifles at the range. (Too damn many, I can't keep enough ammo around.) So reloading is definitely a priority.
My experience is mostly at or under 100 yards though.

So, to put it in a nutshell, the main experience that I am lacking is just the long-range experience.

Hopefully this info is a little more help. I really do appreciate your advice and will take it into consideration.
 
Hey Red Label, Certainly did not intend to be "condescending". Had no idea from your answers that you were that familiar with heavy kickers. I'm relatively new to this Board, so I just don't know all the posters real well.

However, after having read your last post, I'd once again recommend you get started on Reloading as quickly as possible.

And, if you do plan to hunt at some point, there are plenty of tricks to it. I've been hunting for 47 years and I'm still learning. But, perhaps I'm just a slow learner.

Since you enjoy recoil, I'd recommend one of the following; the 30-378, 338-378, 338Laupa or a McMillan Big Mac 50cal. All of those rifles will address your concerns "beyond" 500yds and should provide enough recoil to make you happy.

The 50cal will require a bigger press than the others, but they sure are accurate and provide more than enough energy to kill Elk or Brown Bears as far as you can see them. Folks in Pennsylvania hunt with them a good bit. Check http://www.wideners.com and http://www.sinclairintl.com for 50cal components.

Good hunting and clean 1-shot kills, Hot Core
 
Hot Core, Glad to hear that things are going better at HA. I liked the board but just couldn't stand by and see that cancer spread by those who thought they knew everything. I'm sure you know what I mean.

I have taken 2 moderator positions, that I really didn't want, but if I can turn around a few fence sitters it will be worth it.

Mike375 has been slowed down by a bad back lately, and I have only heard from him 0nce in the past 3 weeks.

Keep up the good work instructing newcomers to the sport of shooting and reloading. We can change things in this country one person at a time.----------Chainsaw
 
No problem Hot Core. You definitely have more experience than me and I'm sure I could learn much from you. I left out much detail of my shooting experience. But where long-range shooting is concerned, I am a total novice.

The calibers that you mentioned are all familiar to me, and would be "fun" choices I'm sure. Regardless of which way I go, I will indeed have to make reloading a priority to make it worthwhile. Besides, I have been saving all of my brass from some time, so I have plenty of that to start with...

Thanks...
 
Hey Chainsaw, Didn't know Mike375 was injured. He does have a lot of good "experienced knowledge" which I regard as much more worthwhile than the "theory mongers". He is a good thinker too.

Good luck in the Moderator jobs and I do hope the same people don't hose-up those sites for you all.


Hey Red Label, Saving the cases is an excellent idea. That will be a big help to you once you get started reloading. It will help you in the long run if you buy a particular caliber from the "same" manufacturer. You will have a better chance of having a similar weight and internal case shape between all the cases. This will be a help as you tighten the groups at Long Range. For what it is worth, I've found Federal Cases to be a good bit more consistent than Rem and Win.

One additional recommendation I can give you is to get a couple of "Component Manufacturers Load Manuals" and read them a few times. I normally recommend the Speer and Hodgdon Manuals because they seem to give numbers close to what I find in my various firearms. If you intend to use someone elses bullets and powders, then I'd recommend you get their Manuals.

You can find some older Manuals on ebay occasionally and get some good deals on them. In fact, some of the older Manuals contain cartridges that are no longer listed in newer Manuals. But, the new Manuals have some Cartridges, Bullets and Powders that older ones don't have too.

Anyway, lots of good info in the Manuals besides how much Powder to dump in. In the back of some are External Ballistics Tables that will provide you with some "What if this particular Ballistic Coefficient bullet is going XXXXfps, how is the trajectory and wind drift affected...?" type answers and give you an idea of the "Drop Rate" way out yonder.

They are excellent reading and it is impossible to have too many.

Good hunting and clean 1-shot kills, Hot Core
 
If you want a .308 caliber magnum without the headaches associated with the short neck of the .300 WM, try the .308 Norma Mag, but only if you handload. :D

I use a 30-06 for almost everything though.

There are also some barn burners available from lazeroni that offer better ballistics in shorter cases.
 
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