A 5, 6 or 7 shot?
- Thread starter Tarcante
- Start date
Concealed carry is very much an individual choice, it depends a lot on how comfortable YOU would be with the gun.
A lot also depends on how you are going to carry it. Shoulder holster? Dirty Harry carried an S&W .44 magnum...if you're going ankle holster, well that wouldn't work so well.
Best would be to go to a range that would let you shoot several revolvers so you could get a feel for the size, weight and recoil.
For us to give you suggestions we'd probably need to know how you'd be carrying, what caliber gun you were looking at and what you think you might like in a gun as far as overall size and weight.
Here's two classic sayings that show you need to find YOUR balance between capacity and comfort...
1. If you need a gun, any gun that you have with you is better than any gun you left at home because it was too uncomfortable to carry.
2. "I wish I would have had less ammunition said NO ONE who has ever been in a gun fight."
Good Luck.
P.S. Welcome to The Firing Line...there's lots of good folk and good information here.
A lot also depends on how you are going to carry it. Shoulder holster? Dirty Harry carried an S&W .44 magnum...if you're going ankle holster, well that wouldn't work so well.
Best would be to go to a range that would let you shoot several revolvers so you could get a feel for the size, weight and recoil.
For us to give you suggestions we'd probably need to know how you'd be carrying, what caliber gun you were looking at and what you think you might like in a gun as far as overall size and weight.
Here's two classic sayings that show you need to find YOUR balance between capacity and comfort...
1. If you need a gun, any gun that you have with you is better than any gun you left at home because it was too uncomfortable to carry.
2. "I wish I would have had less ammunition said NO ONE who has ever been in a gun fight."
Good Luck.
P.S. Welcome to The Firing Line...there's lots of good folk and good information here.
A 5-shot will be done in a smaller frame than a 6 or 7, clearly intended for concealed carry. In larger calibers, those guns are pretty rare. For a given size and weight then, you will get bigger bullets with a 5 shot capacity.
If I was going to actually shoot magnums, not just have that as an option, I think I would want a 7 shot rather than 6 to keep the cylinder lock notches in the heavier parts of the cylinder, between chambers instead of right on the outside apex of each chamber, where the metal is the thinnest. On the smaller frame guns, that is what forces it to be 5 shots instead of 6 (L frames bigger than 357), if 6 will fit at all (J magnum frames bigger than 32).
I carry a 7-shot 686+ 3" bbl. It's a hefty gun, so I only carry it in the winter when I can add another layer of clothing (windbreaker or light coat - I'm in sunny California). In the warm months (i.e. most months), I carry a compact 9mm.
But when I do carry my L-frame, I'm at maximum confidence. I like revolvers. I shoot them well.
But when I do carry my L-frame, I'm at maximum confidence. I like revolvers. I shoot them well.
lee n. field
New member
What size gun, what cartridge? That will pretty much determine it.
That, and how bad you mind the search for a non-standard holster.
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I thought that too bbqbob51. But it's really not bad at all. I'm a normal sized guy 5'11" 205Lbs w/ a bit of a spare tire. But it tucks away. I mentioned that I only carry it when I can add an outer layer of clothing. But I have carried it with just a t-shirt and a button-up. I just position it where the handle is parallel with my arm to add concealment. And as far as the weight goes, I notice it, but it doesn't bother me at all.
Tarcante,
I have owned the whole range of revolvers for carry, from the S&W 442 through Ruger Redhawk Alaskan in 44 Mag. There are several categories of problems to consider:
1) Barrel length
2) Recoil and blast
3) Length and shape of the grips
4) Size and weight
Barrel length is very important. It affects bullet performance greatly and affects how you shoot the gun. Snubbies can be very difficult to learn to shoot; I found the S&W 442 to be very difficult to deal with. I disliked the the Ruger SP101 too. Consider buying a gun with at least a four inch barrel if this is your first revolver.
Consider the caliber for the size. I have tried 38 Special, 357 Magnum, 10 mm, 45 ACP, 44 Special, 45 Colt, 41 Magnum and 44 Magnum. You will feel the recoil if you go too small with too short of barrel for the caliber.
The length and shape of the grip affects how the gun feels while shooting. Some grips will make recoil feel worse. The grip is also the most difficult to conceal. Most manufacturers focus upon "shooting" grips--they tend to excessively increase the overall height of the gun.
The size and weight should be evaluated. You may find a steel framed GP100 or S&W 686 to be tolerable, but an N-Frame to be too much. I find a 327 TRR8 with five inch barrel and boot grips to be fine, but my GP100 with Hogues is too much to deal with in a Milt Sparks Versa Max 2. Oddly, I find the Ruger SP101 to be too chunky for what it is. Conversely, I hated the light framed Model 19 with 357 Magnum; it was great with 38 Special +P. You may want to try many different revolvers to see what works for you.
A good starter revolver would be the Ruger GP100, GP100 Match Champion, S&W 686 or 686+. They all have medium frames, have enough weight to absorb recoil and give you access to light 38 Special through heavy 357 Magnum loads.
Some of the tricks I have learned in this process are:
1) Grips can be tough to deal with. Skip to the end and get some Herrett's Stocks Jordan Troopers. They will be made for your hand and can be cut to boot length.
2) Ruger makes a really good revolver in the GP100. The S&W 327 TRR8 and 686 are good if you can stand THE LOCK.
3) Carrying spare ammo is difficult--it is uncomfortable, loaders print and so forth. They take up a full space and only hold five to eight rounds. I try to keep one speed loader or moonclip in front of the holster for quick acquisition. Additional reloads consist of a mix od loaders/clips and speed strips.
4) Look for guns with pinned or removeable front sights so you can swap them out. Some guns come with fiber optic or night sights.
5) Chamfered charge holes facilitate reloads. I recommend that you have this done to your guns.
6) Snubbies can be tough to shoot and can make rapid fire difficult. Be prepared to practice frquently to achieve proficiency. You will discover what calibers and frame sizes work for you.
An S&W K-Frame with 2 1/2" barrel is approximately the same size as a Glock 19.
7) Shooting 22 Long Rifle teaches you trigger control but it does not teach you how to deal with recoil. Recoil management is essential. Keep this in mind when you train.
8) Trigger reset is as important as trigger pull. Read Grant Cunningham's The Gun Digest Book of the Revolver for more details.
9) 357 Magnum is a great compromise round between 38 Special and any of the 40+ caliber cartridges. The non-N-Frame guns are are smaller and easier to carry. This does not mean the larger guns cannot be concealed, but you will need boot grips.
10) Learn on a gun with a four inch barrel. Five is good too, but six is hard to carry.
11) A smooth trigger, both in pull and reset, is essential. Spend the money on it.
I have owned the whole range of revolvers for carry, from the S&W 442 through Ruger Redhawk Alaskan in 44 Mag. There are several categories of problems to consider:
1) Barrel length
2) Recoil and blast
3) Length and shape of the grips
4) Size and weight
Barrel length is very important. It affects bullet performance greatly and affects how you shoot the gun. Snubbies can be very difficult to learn to shoot; I found the S&W 442 to be very difficult to deal with. I disliked the the Ruger SP101 too. Consider buying a gun with at least a four inch barrel if this is your first revolver.
Consider the caliber for the size. I have tried 38 Special, 357 Magnum, 10 mm, 45 ACP, 44 Special, 45 Colt, 41 Magnum and 44 Magnum. You will feel the recoil if you go too small with too short of barrel for the caliber.
The length and shape of the grip affects how the gun feels while shooting. Some grips will make recoil feel worse. The grip is also the most difficult to conceal. Most manufacturers focus upon "shooting" grips--they tend to excessively increase the overall height of the gun.
The size and weight should be evaluated. You may find a steel framed GP100 or S&W 686 to be tolerable, but an N-Frame to be too much. I find a 327 TRR8 with five inch barrel and boot grips to be fine, but my GP100 with Hogues is too much to deal with in a Milt Sparks Versa Max 2. Oddly, I find the Ruger SP101 to be too chunky for what it is. Conversely, I hated the light framed Model 19 with 357 Magnum; it was great with 38 Special +P. You may want to try many different revolvers to see what works for you.
A good starter revolver would be the Ruger GP100, GP100 Match Champion, S&W 686 or 686+. They all have medium frames, have enough weight to absorb recoil and give you access to light 38 Special through heavy 357 Magnum loads.
Some of the tricks I have learned in this process are:
1) Grips can be tough to deal with. Skip to the end and get some Herrett's Stocks Jordan Troopers. They will be made for your hand and can be cut to boot length.
2) Ruger makes a really good revolver in the GP100. The S&W 327 TRR8 and 686 are good if you can stand THE LOCK.
3) Carrying spare ammo is difficult--it is uncomfortable, loaders print and so forth. They take up a full space and only hold five to eight rounds. I try to keep one speed loader or moonclip in front of the holster for quick acquisition. Additional reloads consist of a mix od loaders/clips and speed strips.
4) Look for guns with pinned or removeable front sights so you can swap them out. Some guns come with fiber optic or night sights.
5) Chamfered charge holes facilitate reloads. I recommend that you have this done to your guns.
6) Snubbies can be tough to shoot and can make rapid fire difficult. Be prepared to practice frquently to achieve proficiency. You will discover what calibers and frame sizes work for you.
An S&W K-Frame with 2 1/2" barrel is approximately the same size as a Glock 19.
7) Shooting 22 Long Rifle teaches you trigger control but it does not teach you how to deal with recoil. Recoil management is essential. Keep this in mind when you train.
8) Trigger reset is as important as trigger pull. Read Grant Cunningham's The Gun Digest Book of the Revolver for more details.
9) 357 Magnum is a great compromise round between 38 Special and any of the 40+ caliber cartridges. The non-N-Frame guns are are smaller and easier to carry. This does not mean the larger guns cannot be concealed, but you will need boot grips.
10) Learn on a gun with a four inch barrel. Five is good too, but six is hard to carry.
11) A smooth trigger, both in pull and reset, is essential. Spend the money on it.