9MM Suppressor shaking loose

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DennisRL84

Moderator
I shot my Suppressor for the first time this weekend. It is a TiRant 9MM by AAC and was shot on my Glock 17 with Lone Wolf Barrel.

I noticed it shook loose every 4-5 rounds.

It also made the gun horribly unreliable and would FTE every 4-5 rounds.

Is this because the can was loose? Will Teflon tape work or will it melt into the barrel and cause issues? Can I put a few drops of loctite on the barrel to keep it in place?

I do NOT want to make it permanent on the gun but also am afraid of it loosening and me having a baffle strike and ruining a new suppressor.

Any ideas?
 
I would start off with a drop of blue Loc-Tite and see how that does. Were you getting FTE even on the shots where the suppressor was still tight?

Adding a suppressor will change a gun's characteristics, so you may need to play around with different types of ammo. What were you using when you had the problems?
 
To be honest I was having ammo storage issues so I cut the box open and dumped all of my 147 Grain into a bag so I am unsure of the brands. I am going to re-order ammo and buy several different brands and keep them boxed so I know for next time.

It seemed to become an issue as I shot more....So I am thinking it is due to the suppressor shaking loose.

If I drop Blue loctite on it will it strip or damage the threads if I want to remove it after I am done shooting???
 
The blue Loc-Tite is the removable stuff - it's the red version that can be hard to remove. I don't know if the blue would hold up to the heat/hammering, though, so you'd just have to give it a try. If it works, great. If not, you might need to step up to the red.
 
Yeah thats my question - Will it stand up to the battering from the recoil? I guess its worth a shot. I bought it and also some teflon plumbing tape to try next time.

I am just concerned that the teflon tape is going to melt and gunk up the threads.
 
Teflon tape is NO GOOD. It's designed to LUBRICATE tapered pipe threads so that they can be screwed tightly to make a METAL TO METAL seal. It is NOT designed to act as a sealant or for anything else. The last thing you want to do there is to lubricate it.

Try this:

(1): degrease the threads on the BBL and the threads in the can with a good degreaser, like carburator cleaner. You want a no-lube situation.

(2): Crank the thing down! Don't be afraid to tighten it like you mean it. The threads are FINE PITCH (correction added, see post below) ones, it'll unscrew, no worries. Be manly! ;)

Ought not be any need to use loctite, etc... just not needed if you do the two things above.


Willie

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Crank the thing down! Don't be afraid to tighten it like you mean it. The threads are coarse ones, it'll unscrew, no worries. Be manly!
Click to expand...

For most of the common suppressor threadings, they're not coarse, or even fine - they're extra fine. (28 threads per inch, or 1 mm thread pitch, depending on whether you're talking SAE or metric.)

With that being said, you're talking about metal parts here, so Willie's probably on the right track - I suspect that you're not torquing down on the connection near as much as you safely can.
 
You're right... just a brain fart... <sigh> I corrected the post above.

Thread the darned thing on like you mean it and it'll stay there.


Willie

.
 
I was probably a little limp-wristed with the tightening. I was afraid to strip it.

I did just that last night and cranked down on the sucker. While I didnt fire it, I racked the slide and let it slam forward about 50 times with NO loosening. I know that isnt as good as running ammo through it but it was the best I could do without shooting at my garage door. hahaha

I guess I will try next time.
 
My Trident will come loose from my Sig if I don't really tighten it down.

I check to make sure it is tight after every 18 rounds too... Provided it's not to hot to touch.
 
You can purchase a small thin washer, like a Belleville or wave washer that will serve as a lock-type washer and allow you to not have to risk stripping the threads nor to gum them up with the blue Loctite. My Ruger Mark III threaded came from the factory with a small wave washer for just that purpose.

(rats, I see Willie Sutton beat me to it while I was searching for the same wiki article!)
 
Ok thanks for the ideas. I was thinking of the washers that are split and do not line up? I think someone mentioned them. I am not "Handy" and cant think of what there called. Split lock washers?

I am going to take the barrel to Ace today and see if I can find some split lock and belleville's that fit.

Thanks to everyone for the ideas.
 
DO Not use split lock washers.

They can cause alignment issues.

I remember some years back people trying to get their cans to stay put on MAC10s and M11s. The consensus was that the split washer was a good way to get a end cap strike.
 
Update: Home depot has no idea what I meant by Belleville or wavy washer. I tried describing it and it was like explaining how a television works to a cat. They just tilt their head and give you a funny look:

Ace hardware had them but ONLY in metric sizes.

Home depot disd give me intternal lock washers. There NOt split but may work. A picture of them is at the link attached: http://images.search.yahoo.com/images/view;_ylt=A0PDoTBDQGJPmCwAtieJzbkF;_ylu=X3oDMTBlMTQ4cGxyBHNlYwNzcgRzbGsDaW1n?back=http%3A%2F%2Fimages.search.yahoo.com%2Fsearch%2Fimages%3Fp%3Dinternal%2Block%2Bwashers%26n%3D30%26ei%3Dutf-8%26fr%3Dyfp-t-701%26tab%3Dorganic%26ri%3D8&w=301&h=287&imgurl=rainbowboltsupply.com%2Fimages%2Finternal_lock_washer.jpg&rurl=http%3A%2F%2Frainbowboltsupply.com%2FWashers.html&size=30.3+KB&name=Internal%C2%A0Lock+Washers&p=internal+lock+washers&oid=b91f1cfb9e4d924e467df77babab2119&fr2=&fr=yfp-t-701&tt=Internal%25C2%25A0Lock%2BWashers&b=0&ni=128&no=8&tab=organic&ts=&sigr=1199ci7ds&sigb=13g5cgvlr&sigi=11lj1vc10&.crumb=PCPe52cu1bc

Any thoughts???
 
Other people on other forums have suggested anti-seize compound. Any opinions?
Click to expand...
This is mostly for shooting lead bullets, and predominately for shooting .22lr. Lead fouling from .22lr can tend to solder the can onto the threads. That's why we often lube .22 can/barrel threads. I wouldn't do it with a centerfire can shooting jacketed bullets.
 
"Ace hardware had them but ONLY in metric sizes"



Ace is not where I'd go for aerospace quality fasteners... ;)

Try McMaster-Carr, they have all you need, and a good online catalog.
Cheap and efficient. Google them.


Willie

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