9mm largo to luger or mak in 1911ish

BoogieMan

New member
I have a Llama extra in 9mm Largo. It looks pretty but its a victim of a bad refinish and very loose all around. I wont get rid of it because it belonged to my father. I would like to be able to make it a shooter. I havent taken any measurements yet, but it appears that I could buy a barrel, bushing, springs and maybe mod the extractor or replace and be able to shoot 9mm luger out of it. Any thoughts? Anyone do a similar conversion? I should not that I am a machinist by trade and have at my disposal (I own the shop) nearly any machine tool manual and cnc that I could need.
 
Why not just buy 9mm Largo ammo and shoot it?
Sarco used to sell ammo for the guns. They still have some of the Star Modelo Super's in stock.
I'd give them a call: 610-250-3960
 
I have not looked specifically at that conversion, but I don't think you need anything but the barrel if you can find one. The rest should be OK.

You might be able to shoot 9mm P. out of that pistol as is, since the 9mm P. tapered case wedges into the 9mm Largo chamber IF dimensions are just right.

A few years ago, 9mm Largo was about impossible to find except for some corrosive and generally poor condition surplus, but today the ammo is available as well as cases and dies, so there is less reason to change those guns over.

Jim
 
Nonte describes driving a 4mm chamber mouth bushing into the Largo barrel to set headspace for 9mm P.

He says a steel ring .378" OD, .356" ID, and .150" long will make the conversion.

Pistolsmithing, George C. Nonte, Stackpole 1974, pg 382

CAUTION: I have not done this myself. If I had a Largo, I would just load proper ammo for it.
 
I should have mentioned that the pistol is extremely in accurate. My thought wa by changing the barrel,bushing,link I may be able to restore some accuracy and make it more pleasurable to shoot. I have a couple hundred rnds of largo now, old corrosive stuff. I may be upgrading my Kimber 9mm to a schuman ported barrel to make it a little quicker for steel. I can likely use the kimber barrel and bushing in the Llama.
Also wondering if there is a way to tighten up the slide a bit. I thought about building the frame rails up with a TIG then running it through the surface grinder to bring it to fit. Like I said im a machinist, but I have never done any gunsmithing.
 
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Bill@- I have herd that said about the slide on many ocasions. I dont see how that could be. The front of the barrel is supported by the bushing which is supported by the slide. The back of the barrel locks into the slide when in battery.
Assuming that your correct getting a good barrel, link, bushing should make this pistol reasonably accurate.
Where would the fitting issue come from? The locking lugs from barrel to slide or the length of the barrel, position of link?
 
Reloading is the best approach. Starline manufactures 9mm Largo brass cases. Also .38 Super Competition (rimless .38 Super) cases will work in a 9mm Largo chamber.
 
The link is merely to pull the barrel down out of battery as it unlocks, it's not supposed to "prop up" the barrel in lock-up. If the gun does share barrel dimensions with the Kimber, then swapping the barrel might be a cheap alternative to making a bunch of modifications.

have herd that said about the slide on many ocasions. I dont see how that could be. The front of the barrel is supported by the bushing which is supported by the slide. The back of the barrel locks into the slide when in battery.

The barrel is locked to the slide at both ends, and the sights are mounted on the slide, so the fit of the barrel to the slide is the most important for accuracy.
 
The barrel is locked to the slide at both ends, and the sights are mounted on the slide, so the fit of the barrel to the slide is the most important for accuracy
I dont know why. But I never actually considered that. It is good news for my Llama. While I was trying to fit the Kimber barrel (which doesnt because the Kimber is ramped) i found out that the bushing has about .025 gap all the way around the barrel. At this point I am going to try and find a bushing that will fit or machined undersize on the bore. If I tighten that up to .005 or less I might have something that is accurate enough to make it fun to shoot.I havent miced the barrel yet, but it does not appear to have any relief behind the bushing. How tight can I make the bushing? Should I put .002 -.005 relief in the barrel?
 
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