9mm Cleaning Tools

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SlvrDragon50

New member
I'm about to make my first gun purchase (CZ85 Combat), and I'm trying to prep by buying all the cleaning/lubricants and other accessories right now since there's still some time before I am able to go home to actually make the gun purchase.

I've already bought a Bore Snake and 4oz FrogLube Paste. The CZ comes with a brush and patch rod already.

Should I buy an Otis Professional Pistol Cleaning Kit or should I just grab some patches and maybe brushes? I'm not really sure why I need three Memory Flex cables, especially a 20" one.
 
Just buy a cleaning kit to get started. Any gun store will have them.

Oh, and use Frog Lube sparingly. Just a thin film. I tell people to put it on with a Q-Tip.
 
Thanks.

I was watching a video where a guy was applying it with a brush and it seemed work very well on the heated metal parts so that's the plan!
 
Go to a discount fabric shop and buy a couple yards of remnant flannelette(winter sheet/PJ cloth) and cut it into 2 x 2 patches. Runs less than $10. One yard, 45" wide gives you about 405 patches.
 
Cleaning rod, brass bore brush, brass jag, patches, small "parts" brush, cotton rags, Hoppe's No.9 solvent, any gun oil for rotating parts, any gun grease for sliding parts, both used sparingly. Silicone gun cloth to wipe down after handeling.
No need for high tech gimmicks that require cooking your gun to apply it.
Been using Hoppe's No.9, gun oil and grease for more than fifty years. Never had a rust, or mechanical problem because of it.:D

Alternate:
If you don't like the wonderfully pungent aroma of Hoppe's you can use Break-Free CLP for both solvent, and lube.
 
:/ Well, I've already placed the order for Frog Lube.

I've read that it is pretty much the only thing I need, and it goes on pretty much everything? Or do I still need to buy an oil?

Just placed the order for my CZ85 Combat though! Won't be picking it up until next month though :(
 
I've read that it is pretty much the only thing I need, and it goes on pretty much everything? Or do I still need to buy an oil?
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Haven't fallen for the new age gimmick so I really don't know. I think it claims to be a do all for everything. But I know what a good solvent, gun oil, and grease will do, and has done for over a century. Without the need to heat up a gun.
Also, does this miracle stuff clean all the factory rust preventer gook from a new gun? Something that should be done before the first round is chambered. A thorough cleaning to remove all the sticky goo they put on at the factory. It may not be as obvious as the thick coating of cosmoline found on milsurps that were in storage for decades, but it is there.
 
Oh yea, you're still supposed to used a solvent to clean off the gun before the initial application of FrogLube.

Will IPA work or should I get brake cleaner?
 
I've read that Hoppe's leaves behind residue because it is petroleum base and thus can't be used before FrogLube.

Or am I confusing things now?
 
Not confusing things, just reading too much. You don't need the miricle wonderstuff in the first place. But you've fallen for the hype, and bought it, so use it as directed. It will probably work OK. Just unnessary "high tech" 21st century hype.
What do they suggest to clean a gun with before you cook their wonder lube on?
 
You just need to use a solvent without a petroleum base. They sell their own, but it's atrociously expensive at $10 for an oz.

I think the petroleum just affects the ability of the FrogLube from effectively bonding with the metal? I am not too sure. I wish FrogLube was more forthright about the chemistry so I can use my own mind to see if using Hoppes would actually hinder the performance of FrogLube.

I'll get brake cleaner if that's the only option, but I'd prefer to get something a little less noxious.
 
They sell their own, but it's atrociously expensive at $10 for an oz.
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Exactly! And that Sir is the price you pay for 21st Century, high tech hype!

I have, and always will stay with tried, and proven solvents, and lubricants. I don't even use the concoctions often mentioned here on TFL. Like Ed's Red, and various witch's brews of Automatic Transmission fluids and synthetic motor oils.
I wish FrogLube was more forthright about the chemistry
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Just what does this mysterious substance claim it can do that hasn't been done very well for a hundred or so years?
 
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OK, let me interject some experience here over a lot of opinion.

Let me first say that I started out cleaning rifles 50+ years ago, and yes, we used Hoppe's No 9. But that was 50 years ago. Fast forward to the modern age. I clean guns every day, and have pretty much figured out what works and what doesn't. There are cleaners and lubricants that are non-toxic, low VOC, and water soluble available on the market. Solvents that won't eat your liver, like Hoppe's Elite, Boretech, Slip 2000, etc. They work better than the old stinky stuff and protect the metal better. There is also a class of lubricants on the market called thin film high shear lubricants. Frog Lube is one of these, just not the best one. Slip 2000, Militec, Eezox, Gunzilla, WeaponShield, TW25, these are the industry leaders. You can do the heat treat thing like Frog Lube advises, and you can use it like regular oil. Just clean off the metal, heat moderately, and slather on the stuff. When it's done, wipe off the excess, and your gun is essentially dry lubed. Works well.

Since you already ordered the Frog Lube, go ahead and use it, but use it sparingly. Degrease the gun with carb cleaner before you start.
 
Aww really? I was thinking about ordering Gunzilla, but it didn't seem to have the same level of support. Oh well, I have enough faith in technology that any modern lube is going to work sufficiently. Especially for a range only gun.

Question though, carb cleaner? I though you're supposed to use brake cleaner?
 
I'm gonna be honest, I used to use Hoppes No. 9 all the time, and still do to some extent, but I have started using Breakfree CLP as my go to cleaner for my average range trip.

Also, if you are using a bore snake for your barrel, I suggest using a spray based cleaner (the whole reason I got on the Breakfree bandwagon, honestly), since it makes the whole process much easier.
 
I'd get an old tuooth brush with which the rails, breech face, extractor may be scrubbed.

Remember to line your workspace with either shelf-liner or cheaper, newspaper. That way you don't mess up your table. With newspaper you can throw your patches down, waddle it up and chuck it in either the trash or the fireplace.

You might also want to buy disposable rubber gloves to keep any chemicals or solvents off your hands.
 
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