98k shoots high
- Thread starter enstorm
- Start date
Military sights were set for something like 500 yards plus or minus.
No idea if a fix available, not a 98 guy, but I shoot a lot of Mil Surplus.
I shoot black balls and shoot at the bottom and see what patterns up high.
You can also take a sigh point low, or just let it fall where it does and see how she groups.
No idea if a fix available, not a 98 guy, but I shoot a lot of Mil Surplus.
I shoot black balls and shoot at the bottom and see what patterns up high.
You can also take a sigh point low, or just let it fall where it does and see how she groups.
I have run into this problem many times. The only real cure is a tall front sight. Find the load you like, file the sight down so you are where you want to be at 100 yards.
Brownells:
https://www.brownells.com/rifle-par...er-91-dovetail-front-sight-blank-prod341.aspx
Vintage
https://www.libertytreecollectors.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=4014
Brownells:
https://www.brownells.com/rifle-par...er-91-dovetail-front-sight-blank-prod341.aspx
Vintage
https://www.libertytreecollectors.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=4014
I think the correct sight picture for an original K98k or a Russian capture would be the top of the front sight post centered and even with the top surface of the rear sight leaf....if you don't want to F with the original sights you can take a "fine bead" by lowering the front post so it is even with the top of the notch, this will lower POI.
They all shoot high (by our standards) at 100yds. A couple of things you need to understand about European military marksmanship from that era. First, the "zero" range was usually 300m, or more, and second, soldiers were taught to aim for the enemy's belt buckle.
This method of sights and training meant increased probability of a torso hit, even if the shooter's range estimate was somewhat off.
TO get your rifle to be "on" at 100yds there are several paths you can take. Not all are easy, or satisfactory.
You COULD handload ammo (down) until you find a spot where the trajectory matches the sights at 100yds. You can make ammo to do this, BUT it won't be full power ammo, and therefore of limited use.
You can get a replacement front sight, taller than the original, and then "adjust" it (filing it down) in carefully measured amounts to get your rifle shooting to the point of aim desired. (This is the generally preferred method)
If you have the tools and expertise, you COULD mill down the rear sight base (what the sight is mounted on) to adjust the angle of rear & front sights, to change the point of impact. This is a complex task, involving knowing how much movement of the sight creates the desired change in point of impact (a calculation), and then actually cutting the metal correctly to achieve the desired goal. (This is a less desirable method for most of us, but does allow the use of the original sights)
OR, you can just do it the "Kentucky windage" way. If your rifle shoots high, AIM LOWER!
Best thing to do, is get a taller front sight, then work on it until you get the rifle shooting where you want, the way you look through the sights.
This method of sights and training meant increased probability of a torso hit, even if the shooter's range estimate was somewhat off.
TO get your rifle to be "on" at 100yds there are several paths you can take. Not all are easy, or satisfactory.
You COULD handload ammo (down) until you find a spot where the trajectory matches the sights at 100yds. You can make ammo to do this, BUT it won't be full power ammo, and therefore of limited use.
You can get a replacement front sight, taller than the original, and then "adjust" it (filing it down) in carefully measured amounts to get your rifle shooting to the point of aim desired. (This is the generally preferred method)
If you have the tools and expertise, you COULD mill down the rear sight base (what the sight is mounted on) to adjust the angle of rear & front sights, to change the point of impact. This is a complex task, involving knowing how much movement of the sight creates the desired change in point of impact (a calculation), and then actually cutting the metal correctly to achieve the desired goal. (This is a less desirable method for most of us, but does allow the use of the original sights)
OR, you can just do it the "Kentucky windage" way. If your rifle shoots high, AIM LOWER!
Best thing to do, is get a taller front sight, then work on it until you get the rifle shooting where you want, the way you look through the sights.
I can't imagine that modern ammunition doesn't have more to do with this than anything else. Propellant isn't what it was 100 years ago.
I shoot a Swede, pre-1900 small rings, 1908, 1909s, and K98 among others and they ALL shoot up and a bit right with new ammo, despite some having the rear sight range of 100 to an optimistic 1800 meters. Of course as collectibles, I'd never tinker with them, so just let the shots group where they do.
I shoot a Swede, pre-1900 small rings, 1908, 1909s, and K98 among others and they ALL shoot up and a bit right with new ammo, despite some having the rear sight range of 100 to an optimistic 1800 meters. Of course as collectibles, I'd never tinker with them, so just let the shots group where they do.