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98 mauser
- Thread starter vinnied
- Start date
Your rifle is fine. I'm guessing you have been trying to single load.
The Mauser 98 "ejector" is the thin blade of metal at the rear of the action connected to the bolt stop.
The "non-rotating claw extractor" is what is attached to the bolt body.
To fix your problem with not being able to turn the bolt down, stop trying to single load your ammunition. The extractor on a Mauser was only meant to load ammunition from the magazine so the rim of the brass would slide into position against the bolt face as the bolt is pushed forward into battery.
When you try to put the bot down on a round not fed from the magazine the extractor lip hits the brass and won't let the bolt go into full battery.
Hope this helps.
Jimro
The Mauser 98 "ejector" is the thin blade of metal at the rear of the action connected to the bolt stop.
The "non-rotating claw extractor" is what is attached to the bolt body.
To fix your problem with not being able to turn the bolt down, stop trying to single load your ammunition. The extractor on a Mauser was only meant to load ammunition from the magazine so the rim of the brass would slide into position against the bolt face as the bolt is pushed forward into battery.
When you try to put the bot down on a round not fed from the magazine the extractor lip hits the brass and won't let the bolt go into full battery.
Hope this helps.
Jimro
That's the answer to a long extractor life. You can push inward(toward the bolt body) on the middle of the extractor as you force the extractor over the single loaded round. This may work but causes more wear and tear on the extractor so is not my suggested operation.
Load the round in the mag and let the bolt strip and chamber.
Let us know if that solves the problem.
Load the round in the mag and let the bolt strip and chamber.
Let us know if that solves the problem.
There may be some other problem; we won't know until the OP replies.
But you should be able to single load a 98 Mauser (and a 1903 Springfield); it takes more effort to close the bolt on a chambered round, but it can be done and, in the case of the Springfield, was intended to be done when using the magazine cut-off. It does no harm to the extractor in either rifle.
Jim
But you should be able to single load a 98 Mauser (and a 1903 Springfield); it takes more effort to close the bolt on a chambered round, but it can be done and, in the case of the Springfield, was intended to be done when using the magazine cut-off. It does no harm to the extractor in either rifle.
Jim
Jim Watson
New member
The 03 has a magazine cutoff and a front bevel on the extractor to allow single loading.
The 98 does not have a cutoff. Does it have a bevel on the extractor?
I have read of having to cut a receiver clearance for the extractor to flex outward on a Brevex to allow loading your elephant gun to +1 but do not know if that applies to a real Mauser.
The 98 does not have a cutoff. Does it have a bevel on the extractor?
I have read of having to cut a receiver clearance for the extractor to flex outward on a Brevex to allow loading your elephant gun to +1 but do not know if that applies to a real Mauser.
There may be some other problem; we won't know until the OP replies.
There may be, you cannot ever discount the unknown.
Go and NoGo gauges measure from the bolt face to the chamber shoulder area as you know. It is common to measure headspace using go/nogo gauges with the extractor claw off on a Mauser because the claw gets in the way otherwise.
The OP can put the bolt into batter with the claw off. Headspace isn't the issue, so the claw must be interfering when it's on, and the only way it can do that is if the claw is impacting something which is going to be the cartridge rim. The only way that can happen is if the rim didn't slide up under the extractor.
But you should be able to single load a 98 Mauser (and a 1903 Springfield); it takes more effort to close the bolt on a chambered round, but it can be done and, in the case of the Springfield, was intended to be done when using the magazine cut-off. It does no harm to the extractor in either rifle.
The M98 extractor claw in milspec condition was not designed with the bevel for single loading. It isn't a hard modification to do, so it can be found on a number of hunting rifles. I've done the "push the back end in to snap over the rim" trick with milspec M98s, but I've never felt comfortable just ramming home the bolt with a cartridge in the chamber for fear of jamming it so tight that I get rough extraction.
Jimro
Gunplummer
New member
I don't know, there really is not a lot of information here. If you have the wrong bolt collar (Ring that holds the claw extractor on) the extractor will bind when you turn the bolt in the rifle.
Hi, Vinnied,
First, do you mean "extractor", not "ejector"? The ejector is not on the bolt, it is in the box at the left rear of the receiver.
Have you tried moving the extractor on the bolt with the bolt out of the rifle? If it turns easily, that rules out interference of the extractor with the right locking lug.
Hi, guys,
I keep being told ad nauseam that a 98 Mauser can't be single loaded by inserting a round in the chamber and closing the bolt. It won't work, the chorus goes, or the extractor will break.
Doesn't anyone here actually have a 98 Mauser and a round of ammunition? If you do, try it. (Please use an empty case or a dummy round! Loud noises are bothersome if unexpected.)
You will find, to your surprise, that not only can you close a Mauser bolt on a chambered round, but that it is fairly easy. With some rifles, you might have to hit the bolt handle smartly, with others it is easier, but it is not impossible.
Jim
First, do you mean "extractor", not "ejector"? The ejector is not on the bolt, it is in the box at the left rear of the receiver.
Have you tried moving the extractor on the bolt with the bolt out of the rifle? If it turns easily, that rules out interference of the extractor with the right locking lug.
Hi, guys,
I keep being told ad nauseam that a 98 Mauser can't be single loaded by inserting a round in the chamber and closing the bolt. It won't work, the chorus goes, or the extractor will break.
Doesn't anyone here actually have a 98 Mauser and a round of ammunition? If you do, try it. (Please use an empty case or a dummy round! Loud noises are bothersome if unexpected.)
You will find, to your surprise, that not only can you close a Mauser bolt on a chambered round, but that it is fairly easy. With some rifles, you might have to hit the bolt handle smartly, with others it is easier, but it is not impossible.
Jim
What happens with the bolt out of the rifle? The right hand locking lug should be covered by the extractor. If you hold the extractor and turn the bolt handle clockwise (as seen from the rear) the bolt should turn. If it doesn't, then you can see if something is stopping it. If the extractor works OK out of the rifle, then we can try an think of something that could be a problem with the bolt in the rifle.
Jim
Jim
Try cleaning the parts and reassembling with some lube. There must be a hangup some place.
Also, read the explanation of "extractor" and "ejector".
In reference to closing the bolt on a chambered cartridge: what you CAN do and what is recommended for long service life MAY be different.
Also, read the explanation of "extractor" and "ejector".
In reference to closing the bolt on a chambered cartridge: what you CAN do and what is recommended for long service life MAY be different.
to be clear, the EXTRACTOR is what pulls the empties out of the chamber
the EJECTOR is what kicks the empties out of the rifle.
In the Model 98, the EXTRACTOR is on the bolt, the EJECTOR is on the receiver, part of the bolt stop assy.
The extractor should be able to turn smoothly on the bolt body. IT may feel a bit stiff but there should be no binding.
Worn parts, damaged parts, incorrect assembly, incorrect parts, or dirt & crud can cause binding.
As to single loading, there is more than just the angle of the extractor claw. There is also a small relief cut in the receiver, to allow the claw the clearance to snap over the case rim. Not all mod 98s have this clearance. IF you force the claw over the rim, in a rifle without the clearance cut, damage can result.
(and no, don't ask me which ones do, or don't, I no longer remember with certainty, only that some do, and some don't. )
If you need to single load a 98 without using the magazine, I would recommend hooking the rim underneath the claw, and pivoting /sliding the round into position against the bolt face, then slowly moving the bolt forward chambering the round or empty case. This avoids any need for the claw to snap over the rim.
the EJECTOR is what kicks the empties out of the rifle.
In the Model 98, the EXTRACTOR is on the bolt, the EJECTOR is on the receiver, part of the bolt stop assy.
The extractor should be able to turn smoothly on the bolt body. IT may feel a bit stiff but there should be no binding.
Worn parts, damaged parts, incorrect assembly, incorrect parts, or dirt & crud can cause binding.
As to single loading, there is more than just the angle of the extractor claw. There is also a small relief cut in the receiver, to allow the claw the clearance to snap over the case rim. Not all mod 98s have this clearance. IF you force the claw over the rim, in a rifle without the clearance cut, damage can result.
(and no, don't ask me which ones do, or don't, I no longer remember with certainty, only that some do, and some don't. )
If you need to single load a 98 without using the magazine, I would recommend hooking the rim underneath the claw, and pivoting /sliding the round into position against the bolt face, then slowly moving the bolt forward chambering the round or empty case. This avoids any need for the claw to snap over the rim.
Gunplummer
New member
It certainly SOUNDS like it is the wrong collar or claw extractor. The face of the extractor may be hitting the barrel and not allowing it to close. As I said before, not much information.
OK James K and Others : when I take the ejector off ( the thing that pulls the empty shell out) the bolt turns down very good. When the ejector is put on you can turn it down about 1/4 the way and then it just binds up. I am not trying to load any shells in it
1. Boy was I wrong.
2. Extractor, not ejector.
3. Try to follow along with what this guy does.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YdhNUr4C2UQ
4. Post a picture of your bolt after you installed the extractor, pay attention to the front of the bolt.
5. You do have the bolt in the cocked position when you insert? If you put the extractor on correctly, but the bolt body is in the uncocked position (you can tell because the firing pin is protruding from the bolt face) then you won't be able to lower the bolt.
Jimro