870 Express. Had it with barrel rust. Will this work?

N

NXMR

New member
Hi all,

I've had it with my 870 express barrel rusting over. I've kroiled it, wiped it down, WD40'd it, wiped it down. Old man rust comes right on back after every damp, cold, frosty morning that I take my gun out.

So here's what I'm thinking.

1) Take the barrel and soak the thing in a bath of "Evaoporust" until the rust is gone. I'm hoping it will take off all that black matte finish as well...

2) When it is finished, take it out and paint it with black Krylon spraypaint.

Anyone else tried this?

More importantly, any warnings or words of advice before I embark on this project?

Any help greatly appreciated!

Thanks
 
Have you asked Remington for a solution?
How about having a good gunsmith just put a nice bluing on it?
Or at least get one of the dura-cera-whatever name brand - coating process
 
NXMR, I may take that very approach with a worn old police trade in 870 that runs like a champ but looks like hell. I'm thinking along the lines of engine paint.
 
Plug the bore before using the Evaporust. It would take a long time for it to damage the bore, but why risk it?
Flat black Krylon will look OK. They make Duracoat in spray cans if you want to go that route.
 
Personally, my similar issues went away when I switched to ATF for cleaning/lubing.

I leave it now in the back of my Blaser for weeks at a time, wipe it off every once in a while, inspect it just to be sure, but no more issues.
 
WD40 and Kroil aren't particularly good rust preventatives.

I'd try Eezox, Breakfree CLP, or maybe a wax before spraypainting the barrel.
 
I'd try Eezox, Breakfree CLP, or maybe a wax before spraypainting the barrel.
Click to expand...

Another I have heard good things about, but have not personally used, is Boshield, developed by Boeing to protect aircraft components from corrossion
 
I'd try Eezox, Breakfree CLP, or maybe a wax before spraypainting the barrel
Click to expand...
.
Doing the above is a waste.:rolleyes: You will have to degrease the barrel before painting it with whatever you choose for a coating so why apply CLP or Eezox or wax. By doing so and NOT de-greasing the coating will NOT stick
 
NXMR asked:

Hi all,

I've had it with my 870 express barrel rusting over. I've kroiled it, wiped it down, WD40'd it, wiped it down. Old man rust comes right on back after every damp, cold, frosty morning that I take my gun out.

So here's what I'm thinking.

1) Take the barrel and soak the thing in a bath of "Evaoporust" until the rust is gone. I'm hoping it will take off all that black matte finish as well...

2) When it is finished, take it out and paint it with black Krylon spraypaint.

Anyone else tried this?

More importantly, any warnings or words of advice before I embark on this project?

Any help greatly appreciated!

Thanks
Click to expand...

NXMR,

Not all of the Rem 870 Express metal finishes rust like you describe!
However, I have one that would rust in the duck blind while I watch it!!!

The problem is Remington did not get the acid quench correct after they applied mine and your shotgun finish. If your's is new, Try contacting Remington for a fix.

If they won't fix it - You can fix it yourself by appling a baking soda paste with say a toothbrush that will quench that acid they left in the finish. However, like you have already found, that's not going to resolve the rust problem you have.
 
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Just curious....how old is the gun? I just purchased one and while rust is generally not an issue in the AZ desert areas I would like to know if it's something I should pay close attentiion to. Personally, if your's is new I would suggest taking it back to the dealer and let them correct the issue and/or argue with Remington for a replacement under warranty.
 
Thanks for the replies so far all.

I bought my 870 back in 1991 (might have been early 92 - can't remember exactly).

Given some of what I've read above, I'm rethinking my strategy.

I *might* try:

1) degrease barrel
2) use Kroil and rag/toothbrush to get rust off
3) coat barrel with Breakfree CLP

Normally I do steps 1 & 2: degrease, de-rust w/Kroil. After that I've always coated it with Remoil. It's one heck of an aggravating cycle - I know you guys know my pain! :)

I'd never thought to try to finish it up with something like CLP (or Eezox). I'll try that and if it re-rusts I'm going to strip it down again and paint it up.

Any further insight/advice appreciated.

I'd like to know more about that baking soda trick. I'll google it up!

Thanks again all :)
 
BoShield T - 9 is a very good product....I use it on my cast iron table tops ...like my table saw...

I've never tried it on a shotgun barrel...but no reason why it wouldn't work well there too...

http://www.theruststore.com/Boeshield-T-9-12-oz-Aerosol-P3C4.aspx

-----------------
they make a rust and stain remover too....

http://www.theruststore.com/Boeshield-Rust-Free-Spray-P2C1.aspx

but I do not know what it would do to a "blued" or "parkerized" barrel ...or whatever is on the 870's barrels ....
 
The 870 Express is made to take out, hunt with it, leave it in the bottom of the boat with the mud and decoys, use as a boat paddle if necessary and if you drop it overboard you don't lose much sleep over it. You just go out and buy another gun just like it cheap.

Personally I'd just use it, hose the mud off after a hard hunt, let it dry by the fireplace, re-lube, and take it back out the next day. A little surface rust won't hurt the gun or the resale value. Neither will a can of Krylon if you want to go in that direction. If it were a nice gun I'd be concerned, but not on an Express.

I'f I'm painting it I'd suggest doing it in a camo pattern, stock and all. Imperfections don't show up and are easily touched up. Trying to make it look nice with a solid black color will look fine for about the first 15 minutes in the woods until it starts rubbing off.
 
Just take the old finish off and sand it with fine sand paper. Then rub it down with rubbing alcohol. Then just use black engine paint. Its good paint and wont come off when it gets hot. I did a gun with it and was happy with the results.
 
The Express barrel and receiver finish is a bead blasted blue job.

The rough finish will do a good job of holding a rust proofing agent.
One method is to use a good rust proofing lube like CLP Breakfree. Apply a dripping wet coat and allow to stand for 30 minutes.
This will dissolve the factory storage lube and soak into the rough finish.
Thereafter, every time you handle or use the gun apply another thin coat of the CLP. This will maintain a Teflon coating that will do a good job.

Another excellent rust proofing method is one long used by salt water duck hunters.
Get a can of Johnson's Paste Wax and apply a fairly thick coat. Heat the metal with a hair dryer until it melts. Allow to dry 30 minutes then wipe off the excess.
The wax coating sheds water and the metal is very rust resistant.

If you want a new finish, don't strip the bluing, just thoroughly degrease the metal then apply the new finish.
The rough surface gives the new finish a "tooth" to bond to and increases adhesion and durability.
A good finish is Brownell's Alum-Hyde II. This is a very tough, durable air hardening finish that comes in an easy to use spray can. Unlike finishes like Lauer Duracoat it isn't a two part mix and you don't have to have a spray gun.
Unlike other finishes it doesn't have to be baked in an oven.

These new epoxy gun finishes are usually more durable then ordinary paints.
 
First I would wash it thoroughly with hot soapy water. Could be residual bluing salts contributing to the problem, and oil won't touch those. Then dry it well and oil it with any good oil; RemOil, Breakfree, Browning, whatever. If that doesn't work, was again, spray with automotive zinc chromate primer and top coat with any good paint - Rustoleum, Krylon, automotive spray paint.
WD-40 is not an excellent lubricant, but it IS a great protectant and corrosion inhibitor. Check the results of any corrosion test.
 
You know why Boeshield works? Wax.

"Boeshield T9 aerosol and liquid lubricants have a unique solvent parrafin wax formula that penetrates, cleans, and displaces moisture"

I've always used Sheath/Barricade on my '93 Express. Saltwater duck hunting didn't affect it at all.

John
 
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