870 barrel cut-down question

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jmg

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Am planning to chop my 26" 870 down to 20". Any advice on how to best approach this? Hacksaw? Strictly for HD.
I understand that by chopping this thing to 20" (and thereby removing the choke) I will have an Improved Cylinder.
Once the barrel is cut, how do I reaffix the bead? May sound kinda trasy--is epoxy (JB Weld) OK? I don't plan on shooting this thing too much--mostly for familiarity and fun--primary function is to let me sleep more peacefully.
Thanks all.
 
Buy an aftermarket barrel. That way, you still have a gun that you can bird hunt with, and the rest of the year, you can mount the short barrel for HD. You can find them online in numerous places. A 20" bbl with rifle sights can be had for about $120 at Cabelas. Shop around, you can probably find a better price.
 
if you cut the barrel you will have cylinder choke, not Improved Cylinder. You will also have sharp edges and rust if you do not finish the cut properly.

Probably ruin a good barrel.
 
Second the idea above of NOT doing this for the reasons stated.

Seen too many not end up legal length - " measure twice - cut once".
Runs about $50 to have this done proper and bead re-installed ( depends on one's part of the country).

IIRC the Mossbergs run about $120. Sometimes Rem police trade ins are found on the internet real reasonable. These usually have a point or two of choke, even if cyl bore to assist in pattern /slug use.

Many ranges do not allow a bbl less than 23" , if one were to want to visit and practice clays - one cannot. Clay Ranges- IMO - can be great way for one to become more familar with the shotgun.

Not to mention the ability to join friends on a hunt...the versatlity is better with 2 bbls.
 
The above reason why NOT to cut the barrel down are very valid.

With that said, here's the mechanics on how to do an easy home cut-down job:

First, drop a cleaning rod, dowel rod, or thin tape measure down the barrel, while it's ON THE GUN.
Mark the rod or measure at the muzzle.
Measuring the rod to the mark gives you the "official" barrel length.

Measure off 20 1/4" from the end. This is going to be the new barrel length. (Always give yourself 1/4" for final sizing).

Remove the barrel and lay the rod along side the barrel, with the original mark aligned with the muzzle.
Mark the barrel at the 20 1/4" mark.

MEASURE A FEW MORE TIMES, to INSURE you have the ACTUAL original barrel length, and the new barrel length properly ID'd.

Wrap a piece of tape around the barrel at the mark where you want to cut, keeping the tape as square with the barrel as possible.
PAY ATTENTION. Don't forget WHICH side of the tape the actual cut will be. People have gotten careless and cut barrels TOO SHORT by cutting on the wrong side.

Get a GOOD, high-tension hacksaw, with a fine-tooth blade.

Start by making a small one or two stroke cut, just enough to break through the finish to bright steel.
Rotate the barrel, and repeat the shallow cut, continuing to make cuts and rotate the barrel until there is a line all the way around the barrel.

Then just keep making small two or three stroke cuts and rotating the barrel until the barrel is cut through.

This method keeps the cut square with the bore, and prevents having to do a lot of filing to try to square up the muzzle.

After the barrel is cut off, use a fine-cut file to lightly smooth the cut end of saw marks.
Use the file to lightly break the sharp outer edges of the muzzle.
Put some fine sanding cloth over your thumb, and use this to break the sharp inner edge of the cut.

Touch up the bare end of the muzzle with cold blue.

To replace the bead, buy a Remington-type front bead from Brownell's Gunsmith Supply http://www.brownells.com

This is a duplicate of the bead-on-a-base that Remington puts on it's Police guns.
Epoxy MIGHT hold it in place, if you get a good bond, but you're better off soft soldering it on.
Colonial Arms Shotgun front sight and base..#198-104-101
$7.50.

There are other methods of cutting shotgun barrels, one of which uses a tubing cutter to mark the barrel, instead of using tape.

The real keys are:
MEASURE PROPERLY. Cut too short, and you can't put it back.

Make short, shallow cuts, moving around the barrel until it's cut through. This keeps the cut square.

It's not absolutely necessary to replace the bead. Some people shoot quite well with no bead, and some people paint a short, wide white line down the barrel near the muzzle.
This seems to work well for some people in bad light.
 
I would NOT recommend epoxy. It's good stuff, but it doesn't take well to the sharp vibrations of a gun barrel.

If the barrel has no vent rib, you can scribe a good square line for cutting by using a suitably sized tubing cutter. Don't try to cut the barrel with it, just use it to scribe a line in the bluing.

And did anyone mention that you should measure twice, then measure twice, then measure twice, then cut once? :D


All in all, it's much easier to buy a barrel!
 
Just got a quote from a 'smith I've used before ( 1911 and 700P work)--38.95 and about 1 weeks time. Seems like that might be the way to go. Another 'smith quoted $100-120 for same...
 
For that price, let the smith do it and drill/tap for the bead. When I cut down one of my extra barrels for my 870 to 20", I cut it off with a hacksaw oversize. Then I milled the end true on a milling machine and drilled/tapped for a new bead. If you don't have access to a milling machine or drillpress, you can do a good job, just takes a little longer. I put double beads on mine and it shoots 3" groups at 80 yards with slugs, POI!

As for shooting clays, I've never heard of a club that put regulations on barrel lengths. So that means that if you spend hundreds on an 1100 Special Field with a 21" barrel, you can't shoot it at your club?!?! I'd find a different club to shoot at if that were the case. At one of the clubs I go to, someone showed up with a legal NFA 14" barrel 870 and shot a round of skeet with us. Nobody have him a hard time about it, in fact it drew a crowd to see how he did. I didn't think that 19 out of 25 was bad with that short of a barrel.

Much of the Sporting Clays I've shot has been with Winchester 1897's with either 18" or 25" cylinder bore barrels. Around here, most of the shots are closer and cylinder bore or Improved works great. My best so far was 39 out of 50. Definately a harder game than skeet!
 
why not just buy a 20" extra barrel. got one on gunbroker from a dealer for my mossy 500. no sense ruining a good one. plus you'll have a long barrel for birds/ducks. :)
 
jmg,as you stated this bbl. will be used for HD and fun shooting and little else.Spend the $38.50 and let the Pro do it.If he screws it up he eats it,not you.Later if you so desire,pick up an appropriate hunting,trap,skeet,or sport-ing clays bbl. of your liking. tom.
 
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