7 X 57 MAUSER AMMO
- Thread starter TABING
- Start date
If this is a troll, I'm gonna bite. If you knew anything about corrosive ammo, which was used for many decades by all military, you would know that proper maintenance keeps the rifle in good shape without any rust or corrosion. I'm sure there are some "older timers" out there who can verify that.
Black powder is also corrsive and muzzle loading shooters still use it, and have no corrosive problems.
Remarks about about packing the barrels with salt, and using salt solution to clean my rifles can only be borne out of pure ignorance.
I can only assume that you are new to shooting and don't know or repect much about how things have been done in the past.
If you want to learn something, read this from
empirearms.com
about how to clean after corrsove ammo use.
How to clean after using corrosive ammo
This is how I do it... it's easy, it's fast, and it's effective.
Best of all you can do it while still on the firing-line and thus
not offend your significant other with the usually pungent stench of
commercial cleaners in your home.
Dilute regular household ammonia (sudsy is best but regular is OK
too) to 2/1 or 3/1 with water (it can be as much as 10/1 if the
smell really gets to you). Keep in a small bottle to take with you
to the range but label it well so you don't mistake it for
contact-lens solution or something (yeeeowww!)
After you are done firing and while still at the range moisten (not
dripping-wet, but sorta-soaked) a patch and run it down the bore and
back once. This instantly will neutralize and dissolve the
corrosive salt-compounds from the primers and start in on the copper
and powder fouling with a vengeance.
Let stand for thirty seconds or so (just enough time to take off and
throw away the ammonia-patch you just used and put a new, dry patch
on your rod). Run the dry patch (or several) down the bore and you
are most literally done.
DON'T OVERDO IT! More ISN'T better in this case...
You really don't want to slop ammonia (especially if heavily
concentrated) all over the blued parts of the gun (as it will likely
start to remove bluing after 30 minutes or so) and you also
shouldn't leave the ammonia in the bore for an extended period of
time (like hours, although I do know folks who do that anyway) as
that may (not WILL, but MAY) cause "crazing" (microscopic pitting)
of the metal. I also have to caution against slopping ammonia on
the wooden parts of your rifle, as it will usually strip the finish
down to bare-wood, BUT if you follow my advise on HOW MUCH ammonia
to use (only enough to dampen, but not soak, a single patch per gun)
you will not EVER experience ANY problems at all...
If you are worried about primer residue getting on the bolt-face you
may want to quickly wipe it with the wet patch before throwing the
thing away and quickly dry it. Same thing with the gas-tube in a
semi-automatic rifle... don't go overboard, just wet it and dry it
and get done with it.
As a final precaution (since the ammonia will also kill all
lubricants and leave the metal very dry) you can run a patch of
gun-oil down the bore and leave it like that for protection from the
elements (just be sure to run a dry patch down the bore before
shooting it again).
I've been cleaning guns this way (including *every* gun we sell) for
nearly thirty years, and have never had rust form in any bore (even
here in humid Florida).
However, if you are (like some folks I have met) completely obsessed
about leaving traces of ANY powder or copper residue in the bore of
your weapon, you can certainly follow up your "field-cleaning" with
a detailed, strenuous, traditional cleaning once you are home (or in
a week or month from then). But I warn you... your bore is much more
be likely to be damaged from your over-enthusiastic scrubbing to get
out that "last speck of copper" (which has no affect on the actual
accuracy of your firearm) than it will with all the rounds you could
possibly send down it during your lifetime.
Dennis Kroh
Click HERE to go back to the EMPIRE ARMS home-page.
EMPIRE ARMS . . . 95 Seminole Avenue . . . Ormond Beach, FL 32176
Phone (386) 677-7314 . . . . FAX (386) 677-7324
[Edited by TABING on 05-14-2001 at 09:13 AM]
Black powder is also corrsive and muzzle loading shooters still use it, and have no corrosive problems.
Remarks about about packing the barrels with salt, and using salt solution to clean my rifles can only be borne out of pure ignorance.
I can only assume that you are new to shooting and don't know or repect much about how things have been done in the past.
If you want to learn something, read this from
empirearms.com
about how to clean after corrsove ammo use.
How to clean after using corrosive ammo
This is how I do it... it's easy, it's fast, and it's effective.
Best of all you can do it while still on the firing-line and thus
not offend your significant other with the usually pungent stench of
commercial cleaners in your home.
Dilute regular household ammonia (sudsy is best but regular is OK
too) to 2/1 or 3/1 with water (it can be as much as 10/1 if the
smell really gets to you). Keep in a small bottle to take with you
to the range but label it well so you don't mistake it for
contact-lens solution or something (yeeeowww!)
After you are done firing and while still at the range moisten (not
dripping-wet, but sorta-soaked) a patch and run it down the bore and
back once. This instantly will neutralize and dissolve the
corrosive salt-compounds from the primers and start in on the copper
and powder fouling with a vengeance.
Let stand for thirty seconds or so (just enough time to take off and
throw away the ammonia-patch you just used and put a new, dry patch
on your rod). Run the dry patch (or several) down the bore and you
are most literally done.
DON'T OVERDO IT! More ISN'T better in this case...
You really don't want to slop ammonia (especially if heavily
concentrated) all over the blued parts of the gun (as it will likely
start to remove bluing after 30 minutes or so) and you also
shouldn't leave the ammonia in the bore for an extended period of
time (like hours, although I do know folks who do that anyway) as
that may (not WILL, but MAY) cause "crazing" (microscopic pitting)
of the metal. I also have to caution against slopping ammonia on
the wooden parts of your rifle, as it will usually strip the finish
down to bare-wood, BUT if you follow my advise on HOW MUCH ammonia
to use (only enough to dampen, but not soak, a single patch per gun)
you will not EVER experience ANY problems at all...
If you are worried about primer residue getting on the bolt-face you
may want to quickly wipe it with the wet patch before throwing the
thing away and quickly dry it. Same thing with the gas-tube in a
semi-automatic rifle... don't go overboard, just wet it and dry it
and get done with it.
As a final precaution (since the ammonia will also kill all
lubricants and leave the metal very dry) you can run a patch of
gun-oil down the bore and leave it like that for protection from the
elements (just be sure to run a dry patch down the bore before
shooting it again).
I've been cleaning guns this way (including *every* gun we sell) for
nearly thirty years, and have never had rust form in any bore (even
here in humid Florida).
However, if you are (like some folks I have met) completely obsessed
about leaving traces of ANY powder or copper residue in the bore of
your weapon, you can certainly follow up your "field-cleaning" with
a detailed, strenuous, traditional cleaning once you are home (or in
a week or month from then). But I warn you... your bore is much more
be likely to be damaged from your over-enthusiastic scrubbing to get
out that "last speck of copper" (which has no affect on the actual
accuracy of your firearm) than it will with all the rounds you could
possibly send down it during your lifetime.
Dennis Kroh
Click HERE to go back to the EMPIRE ARMS home-page.
EMPIRE ARMS . . . 95 Seminole Avenue . . . Ormond Beach, FL 32176
Phone (386) 677-7314 . . . . FAX (386) 677-7324
[Edited by TABING on 05-14-2001 at 09:13 AM]
Just wanted to see the response!