686 side plate removal
- Thread starter volky
- Start date
No you do not need to remove the sideplate for cleaning. The hammer block will fall out, not to tuff to get back in. If you do take it off, do not use a screw driver and pry it off. Use the wooden hammer handle and strike the grip part of the frame. Hold the side plate side down over somthing soft so the side plate is not damaged.
It isn't necessary to remove the side plate for normal cleaning. Depending on use and accumulation of dust-dirt-lint, it may never be necessary to remove it. As for lube, I spray a short burst of my favorite PTFE lube into the frame, ahead of the cocked hammer, about every tenth cleaning. The carrier washes down through the action and when it evaporates, leaves a very durable, slick film that keeps the works smooth and clean.
If you feel called to remove the side plate anyway, get a copy of Jerry Kuhnhausen's S&W shop manual for revolvers. His method of plate removal leaves little chance of messing up the very fine join line, and leaving an unsightly "ridge".
If you feel called to remove the side plate anyway, get a copy of Jerry Kuhnhausen's S&W shop manual for revolvers. His method of plate removal leaves little chance of messing up the very fine join line, and leaving an unsightly "ridge".
5pins is correct, you don't need to remove the side plate for maintaince but if you must-
Start with proper fitting, hollow ground screw drivers. Remove the grips then loosen the mainspring screw (the large screw on the front of the grip frame). Remove the sideplate screws keeping track of which hole they came out of. Tap the grip frame several times with something non-marring like a wooden hammer handle. Keep your thumb over the sideplate to prevent it from flying off. The one piece that will come out on it's own is the hammer block. It's pretty easy to figure out where it goes when you put it all back together.
When reassembling, retighten the side plate screws a little at a time. Just go slow and it really ain't that hard.
Start with proper fitting, hollow ground screw drivers. Remove the grips then loosen the mainspring screw (the large screw on the front of the grip frame). Remove the sideplate screws keeping track of which hole they came out of. Tap the grip frame several times with something non-marring like a wooden hammer handle. Keep your thumb over the sideplate to prevent it from flying off. The one piece that will come out on it's own is the hammer block. It's pretty easy to figure out where it goes when you put it all back together.
When reassembling, retighten the side plate screws a little at a time. Just go slow and it really ain't that hard.
Mike Irwin
Staff
Just for future reference...
NEVER, EVER PRY the sideplate loose!
You'll warp it, and you'll mess up the seam as someone else mentioned.
I lubricate the internals of my S&W revolvers with grease so that I don't have to remove the side plate as often.
NEVER, EVER PRY the sideplate loose!
You'll warp it, and you'll mess up the seam as someone else mentioned.
I lubricate the internals of my S&W revolvers with grease so that I don't have to remove the side plate as often.
Hi Weshoot2,
If springs flew out of an S&W you did a lot more than just remove the sideplate! The only springs that might fly are the trigger spring, which is inside the rebound slide and would have to be deliberately removed, and the cylinder stop spring which only comes out when the stop is removed.
Jim
If springs flew out of an S&W you did a lot more than just remove the sideplate! The only springs that might fly are the trigger spring, which is inside the rebound slide and would have to be deliberately removed, and the cylinder stop spring which only comes out when the stop is removed.
Jim