686 cylinder sticks when swinging out

W

Willie Lowman

New member
I bought a used 686. The cylinder locks up nice and tight when closed. No front to back movement. No side to side rotation when the hammer is cocked.


But the problem comes when swinging the cylinder out. I push the button all the way forward and I have to push hard on the cylinder to make it swing out. I mean I have to put a couple pounds of pressure on it before it will budge.

I have a 627 that will simply flop open as soon as I press the release button. This 686 is my only other S&W revolver.

Is this normal? Is something wrong? What can I check? Should it go to a smith or back to S&W?
 
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Yeah, most likely the ejector rod is loose. They are left hand thread, so turn it to the left to tighten it, when looking at it from the muzzle end.
 
If its just a bit stiff, could be a proper cleaning and a drop of oil will free it up.

Sure, the ejector rod could be slightly unscrewed, or bent, or the crane could be, but along with checking those things, cleaning it won't hurt.

Fellow brought me a Ruger SP 101 one time, to see if I could "fix" it. Very stiff to open or close, VERY stiff to work SA and almost impossible DA, and when open the cylinder could be turned by hand, but would not spin.

I was able to "fix" it with a thorough cleaning. Literally, that's all it needed. Carbon and "gunk" had built up on the crane under the cylinder, and was binding things up.

Not saying this is the case, but it might be, and its a simple thing to fix, if it is.
 
If your ejector rod is tight and there is no debris under your ejector star, it could be a worn cylinder lock hole. If the prior owner did not push the cylinder release fully when opening the cylinder, it will wear out the receiver frame so that the cylinder pin catches slightly on the receiver.
 
Could be the ejector rod is coming loose. When it unscrews it sits out too far and will cause that problem.
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That'd be my first guess, as well, or as DMY pointed out, grit or debris under the ejector star or cylinder recess where it mates. Rod
 
Remove crane/cylinder and check for grit or debris between crane and frame or in the frame channel that the crane is inserted into.

Scratches on lower inside face of crane are a tlp off. Give crane a good cleaning while it's out anyway.
 
I've had this happen with one of my 686's. The ejector rod had come loose.

The ejector rod is a left-hand thread, btw.
 
If you bought it used, here's a worthy tip yet to be mentioned. The screw that holds the yoke in, on the right hand side, may have been swapped with the one just south of it. There are 3 screws on the sideplate- two of them are nearly identical, and one ain't. Sometimes, the factory yoke retention screw will be stoned on the tip to allow for clearance in the yoke groove. Pull those screws and see if one is different, or has been relieved a bit. They'll both likely show a bit of wear, but the one with a flat spot, or is shorter will be the north one for holding in the yoke.
 
Had that happen to my Model 57. It turns out a bronze bristle from the cleaning rod got wedged under the crane hinge. Took out the screw and hinge and out fell the bristle, problem solved.
 
Okay. I figured out where it is hanging up. Now how to fix it?

It is this catch that grabs the front of the ejector rod.

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When I push the cylinder thumbpiece forward a plunger inside the ejector rod pushes this catch forward to unlock it. But it is not pushing it forward far enough. It is hanging up just a bit.

The ejector rod feels tight. I can't turn it by hand in either direction.
 
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It is called a locking bolt, there is a little spring behind it and the transverse pin holds both parts in. As far as I know (and I'm certainly not an expert!) it should move freely, except for the spring pressure holding it out.

I lost one once. My first carry gun was a 3" Model 13 and I shot it enough that the pin worked itself out and I lost the bolt and (maybe - long time ago) the spring.

In your position I would put a drop of penetrating oil on the bolt and work it back and forth with something like a wood or plastic stick - so as not to damage the bluing when you slip.

If that does not free it up you may need to drive out the pin, take out the bolt and spring, clean them (deburr?) and the hole, and reassemble.

Someone who knows more than I do will be by soon to help.

Good luck and enjoy your Revolver!
 
the gun is not new, so warranty is out, right?

S&W can certainly fix the problem, but shipping it to them and back, plus the work might be all on your dime.

There are still S&W certified gunsmiths, who could handle the work.

Penetrating oil, working it in and out to ensure free movement of its full range of travel, flushing with a spray type cleaner, this is something to do as a first step.

If you decide to remove the plunger I recommend you do so in a "glove box". Simple enough to make with some tape and a plastic bag. Small parts and captive springs very often set out to explore the world when released from captivity. You MIGHT find them again, you might not.

There could be a burr, or some part(s) might be worn JUST ENOUGH to still work but hang up. Personally, I'd let a gunsmith fix it. Just find one who actually IS a gunsmith and not just an AR parts assembler calling themself a gunsmith.

Good luck, let us know how it goes.
 
Looks like someone has messed with it already. It appears that there are punch marks next to the pin that holds it in place. Pin is located directly below the "M" in Magnum...

Just thinking out loud... - I wonder if you could get a thin strip of really fine grit sand paper wrapped around the back of the bolt and smooth it up a bit and avoid having to take it apart?
 
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