625 advice

M

maxer51tx

New member
I'm thinking about buying a SW m625 and need advice. This gun would be for HD and target shooting. Possible car gun when travelling. Maybe eventually some IPSC or something down the line. I own 1911s and like .45 acp.

What's the best version of the 625 and why?

Would a 25 be better if I could find one?

Would a 610 serve and shoot just as well? They seem to be easier to find than 625s.

What's a fair price for a new 625? $550?

Should I expect to pay more than new price for a used one with pin on hammer and no lock?

Thanks.
 
I have owned and SOLD almost every model of the 625.
5", 4", 3" barrels - MY preference is the 3" barrel. Use FULL MOON clips. Just like a speed loader, without having to release the rounds into chambers. They drop in and fall out.

A model 25 used in good shape should cost NO MORE than a 625 used in good shape.

Replace the rubber grips with a wood grip, I like laminated grips. I have large hands and it does make a difference.

IF you are going to go 'Pin Shooting' consider the 625 with a 5" barrel.

If you have any specific questions, drop me a line and I'll answer as best I can. I too used to be a BIG .45 ACP fan.

Over the years, I've discovered a person who is a good shot can use ANY CALIBER and defend themselves IN MOST situations.

I've even owned a .45 ACP derringer. It was my concealed weapon of choice. Only had to show it once, to a couple of punks who thought they needed MY MONEY more than I did. Stupid bangers.
 
They are all good, but since you included "car gun", I'd suggest the standard production 4" barrel version.

Great guns, I currently own 5 of the 625's, 3 older ones in blue steel, and one of the new Sc/Ti versions. I don't sell mine... ;)

For pricing, a rough estimate wold be to discount MSRP 20-->24%.

Good Luck...

Joe
 
4" would be competitive in IPSC and IDPA, perhaps a little less ideal for pins than a 5" or 6" gun.

Using moonclips, the reload on a 625 is faster than on a 610 because the holes are bigger. If you want a .40 cal moonclip revolver, check out the S&W 646, which is the L frame instead of the larger N frame like the 610.

Good used ones are out there, but you have to look for them. I picked this one up a couple of years ago for $425 -- it has the firing pin on the hammer and no lock.

sw1b.jpg
 
Very nice looking gun, Mr B.

Car gun would be occasional use...like on a long trip maybe.

Wallew, thanks for the invitaion to answer specifics. I don't have any now, but will later I'm sure. You emphasized SOLD. Did you decide you didn't like 'em for some reason?

With respect to the 610, and I didn't know about the 646, do those guns handle and shoot pretty much like the 625 reprotedly does? My interest in the 625 stems from liking the cartridge, but also because I keep reading on forums how nice they are.
 
I'm thinking about buying a SW m625 and need advice. This gun would be for HD and target shooting. Possible car gun when travelling. Maybe eventually some IPSC or something down the line. I own 1911s and like .45 acp.
Click to expand...
Get the 4" so you can do IDPA also.

What's the best version of the 625 and why?
Click to expand...
All 625s are good. Some folks place a premium on no lock and hammer mounted FP variants. I will go no shorter than 4" bbl. Assuming you can find a 3er for sale ;)

Would a 25 be better if I could find one?
Click to expand...
For a car gun and possibly a game gun, stainless steel would hold up better.

Would a 610 serve and shoot just as well? They seem to be easier to find than 625s.
Click to expand...
Do you handload? 10mm is hard to find in some locales. They also cost a bit more. Which curtails practice :)

Should I expect to pay more than new price for a used one with pin on hammer and no lock?
Click to expand...
NO! They're all the same.

HTH
 
Depending on where you are and who you're dealing with, you might find an excellent condition pre-MIM, pre-lock, pre-frame firing pin version to be priced higher. In many people's opinion, it's worth more than a new version. I had to pass on one last year, would have been nice to have as a spare but I didn't have the money at the time.
I personally would pay up to the same price for a used one as described above as they're currently charging for a new one, but that's just me & I'm not always in line with the mainstream.
Hint on the ACP version: have your gunsmith chamfer the rear of the chambers AND the sharp ledges UNDER the extractor star. ACP brass doesn't use a roll crimp, that leaves square & sharp case mouths, and you'll get smoother loading with moonclips if you remove those ledges under the star.
Denis
 
Thank you for the tips, Dpris.

It'll be awhile before I do this, unless I come across one I can trade for. I live in Houston, so trade may be a possibility. Looks like I'm looking for a 4 inch based on comments above. I prefer blued guns, but given the intended usage 625 is probably the better choice.

One thing I'm wondering about. What difference, really, does the frame-mounted pin make? It doesn't seem to me it ought to affect trigger feel?

Also do models w/ pins on the hammer not use MIM parts?

Thanks, again.
 
Maxer,
S&W has changed several things about the guns in recent years.
Many people don't trust MIM parts, many people do. For those who don't, a non-MIM gun would be worth a little more.
The frame-mounted firing pin is stated by S&W to be a stronger system, you'd have to ask either them or one of the more knowledeable posters here to explain how.
As far as the trigger pulls go, my info is that S&W has made some other changes to accommodate the MIM parts. The headspace has been opened up on current guns, as I understand it, to help meet California drop test requirements, and the current MIM firing pins are shorter. At least some current MIM hammers are hollowed on both sides, which makes them slightly lighter. Increased headspace, shorter firing pin, and lighter hammers would seem to require a stronger mainspring for positive ignition. The mainspring seat location has been moved slightly to increase the tension, and the result is a harder double-action trigger pull. Two recent brand new N-Frames I've had here had 12.5 & 12.25 pound DA triggers, and that's much heavier than a properly set up Smith should have, in my opinion.
The frame-mounted pin in itself would not affect trigger pull, but in conjunction with other changes it seems to have.
I don't know the transition dates or how many guns were involved in the transition, but S&W went to the frame pin first, then a year or three later went to MIM hammers & triggers. I have a three-inch Model 60 .357 Mag that has the frame pin, but forged parts. I'm not aware of S&W ever making any regular hammers with firing pins out of MIM, but I suppose it's possible.
Somebody else here might know.
I'm not trying to talk you out of the gun in any way, just answering your questions.
Good luck.
Denis
 
Denis,

Muchas gracias. This is great information. You didn't talk me out of anything. Lookslike I'm looking for a firing pin on the hammer.

Again, thanks.

Max
 
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