620 or 686????

C

Coop de Ville

New member
Hi all,

I would like to purchase my first revo and really wanted something like the 66 with a 6" barrel.... blue of course.

My choices have narrowed, partly because of what S&W offers. I like the 686 but really want a half lug. The 620 looks to be identical, except for the lug... and length (4" vs 6").

I also am really interested in the gp100 6" half lug blued... but always wanted a smith.

Can anyone tell me the difference b/n the 66 and the 620?

Also, does smith use a safety lock on their revos?

Thanks and best, Coop
 
Can anyone tell me the difference b/n the 66 and the 620?

Also, does smith use a safety lock on their revos?
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The 66 is the lighter and slightly more svelte K frame, and it has a six-shot cylinder.

The 620 is the slightly more beefy L frame, and it has a seven-shot cylinder.

The 620 will stand up better to a steady diet of full-power Magnum loads, if that's your preference. The 66 will be a little lighter and easier to carry.

And yes, all new S&W revolvers come with a key lock right above the cylinder release latch.
 
Thanks for the replies.

I like the look of the 620, but wanted a 6 shot....

And the key lock... I think that's the nail in the coffin for me. I think I'll look at the rugers.

Don't know much about revos and certainly wouldn't trust myself to critique a used one..

Best, Coop
 
I have a 620 and like it a lot. It has the normal "great" S&W trigger(something I doubt you will ever find in a stock Ruger) and while it is a little strange having that seventh shot, its nice to have and its growing on me. Speed loaders are readily available and are not a problem if thats a worry. I keep hearing all these complaints about the lock, but I dont see what the big deal is. I have S&W's that have them and those that dont, and they all work just fine.
 
I would like to purchase my first revo and really wanted something like the 66 with a 6" barrel.... blue of course.
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You should look for the out-of-production S&W Model 19. You can find plenty of them for sale with a fair amount of them with little to no wear in the finish.
 
S&W only has the model 10 in blue. the 5xx series guns are no more. The 620 is stainless only as are pretty much all their models now, minus the alloy black models. :(
 
Possibly not very relevant to the question, but I rather like the 620...except for the lock and the seven-shot cylinder. If they made a six shot 620 I'd probably be all over it even with the lock. (don't want to fiddle with another batch of speedloaders)
 
Coop,

I have a GP100 in 6" .357 and have put the better part of 10k rounds through it. I also have a 4" SW 625JM in .45acp. My comments are NOT about Ruger vs. Smith - they are both great guns and you can't go wrong with either.

Really, Ruger for raw durability with heavy magnum loads and S&W for a smoother trigger and maybe, maybe accuracy (highly arguable).

My comment is: Why a 6" Barrell? I bought the 6" with the thought of target shooting. Reality - I have a 45' indoor range and my eyes just aren't that good in the lighting. The 6" gun is very nose heavy. For 2-hand freehand target shooting the 6" gets tiring fast. It's arguable that the 6" barrel is "more accurate" and you certainly will get a few more FPS, but the truth is that a 6" sight radius may allow your eyes to focus better resulting in higher accuracy.

My 4" 625 has MUCH better handling, swings from target to target much easier in steel shooting and such. It's also more accurate in my hands simply because it handles better in my hands.

So, before you decide on the 6", take a good look at a 4" model. The 6" makes a better target gun and a better hunting gun. The 4" handles better, makes for a better "combat gun", packs better, and, IMO, is better in all other ways.

But, you really can't go wrong with a 686 or a GP100.
 
I found a used but like new 586-4 that is a great shooter :)

My 686+ & 586
686586.jpg
 
You're right....

The 4" is plenty. I think it's just the idea of a 6" that has me at this point. This would be my first revo. I've been shooting semis in comp and at work for years, so, sad to say, the mystique is gone... But I have a desire to own a sixgun.

For years I trained with the semis and believed I would never, could never, want a wheelgun... what for? I have 16 rounds in my G19 and I'm good with it. But... now I've been looking for a classic.

So much so, that I am considering single action as opposed to double. A Bisley or Blackhawk as opposed to the GP100. Truth is, I don't even know what I would use it for... plinking, target, self defense, or as a hunting backup. I don't know.

Just want a wheelgun, something classic.

Would be nice if I spent as much energy thinking about my retirement funds :)

Best, -Coop
 
IF you are looking to shoot this in competition, do check the rule book. I don't think 6" barrells are allowed in IDPA or IPSC - or maybe they are but I missed the memo.

I think the 4" is easily the best all around length. As to SA vs. DA, my buddy has a Ruger Vaquero in Stainless .357. He prefers my GP100 because of the quick(er) reloads and the Double Action follow up shots.

Enjoy whatever you buy either way though! The .357 is a fantastic caliber that really is so enjoyable on so many levels.
 
I think the 4" is the best all around length too. However, there is no doubt that 6" revolvers offer faster shot to shot recovery and deliver tighter groups for a given skill level, and higher bullet velocity to boot. For pure shooting purposes, the 6" is the clear winner, in my opinion, but once you throw in desires for carrying, concealability, holsters, etc... the 4" wins on those other counts. To me 4-6" is the most practical length range, and where you choose within that range just depends on which of the above factors are most important to you.
 
what is a half lug?
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The shroud on the bottom of the barrel only goes half way.

I agree with the 4". The 6" is not allowed in combat shooting - period. I dissagree that the recovery from shot to shot is slower on the 4" then the 6". I've shot both and find that for me and quite a few others, the 4" is superior for target to target reaccusition.
 
I own both 4" and 6" models. I have a 6" GP 100 and 2 x 6" M28's. I own a 4" 686,4" M28 and a 4.75" Blackhawk. I like all of them. They have their advantages and disadvantages, but the important thing is that I have a choice.

Now if I was carrying a revolver for my duty piece, instead of a Sig, I would definitely have to reccommend either a 4" or a 3" model. Perhaps a 686 or 66 with the 2.5" barrel if I was a detective. The 6" is just too much barrel to heft around 10-12 hours a day.

Of course there is always the 5" option. :)
 
Eightydeuce,

S&W only has the model 10 in blue.
Click to expand...

This year's catalog also features the Models 25, 29, 36LS, and 57 in carbon steel, and there are still a few 21TR's floating about at wholesalers.
 
S&W model 19

I have a S&W model 19 with 4" barrel and as long as I don't try to shoot it single action it has to be the best pistol I own. As I go over this list I see a lot of S&W's that look just like this good old classic.. seems they change some little thing and change the number... I discovered by accident sort of that I can shoot as good double action as single. Trigger is so light on single that it ain't safe, in my mind... she seems to go off on her own sometimes... so now I just do the full trigger pull thing. Since more than likely, if I really need it, that's how I will be shooting anyway... is the way to pratice.

So, I have to agree with one of the post above... find a S&W model 19 with 4" barrel.. If I see one at the gun show this weekend at a half way decent price... I will have two.
 
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