6.5 x 55 Swede

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Olddumbcountryboy

Inactive
I have an old Carl 1913 that has seduced me. I'm fascinated with this caliber and the quality of the rifle.
What do I do with it?
The 1:7.5 barrel is good for heavier bullets, but I have an old 30-06 that is the ultimate deer rifle, loaded 125 gr noslers w 53 gr imr4064. Perfect for deer, and even antelope or hogs maybe if I had the opportunity. With the 06 I can load heavier for elk.
Back to the Swede. I don't need another deer rifle. What barrel twist would I need to give accuracy with 95 or 100 gr varmint bullets?
I also have a 204 Ruger that drops the hammer on yotes with pin point accuracy.

Help me find a specialty for my Swede! I don't know what to do with it. Maybe I should just keep it original.
 
I like to target shoot my 1903 Carl Gustav M96 at our range, in it's original shape --- which is a pleasure to shoot and also brings a "wow" factor from other shooters.

By keeping it in it's original shape, should not affect it's resale value; unless the bore is shot out. "The price on Swedes is headed north."
 
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I would suggest keeping it original. They can shoot exceptionally well. With reloads mine are very accurate. Even w/ commercial loads they are accurate. I have frequently outshot scoped rifles.

They like the heavier bullets. Mine shoot better w/ 140gr vs 120 gr. As far as your questions on accuracy it would depend on what level of accuracy you would be satisfied with.
 
I've used the 6.5x55mm Swede in '96 rifles cut down to 23" to successfully hunt feral hogs and deer with handloads. We used Norma cases, IMR 4064 powder, and 140 grain Sierra spitzers to achieve chronographed velocities of between 2,500 and 2,550 fps out of respect for the original Swedish Mauser actions. We could always count on such loads to deliver MOA accuracy. I wouldn't care to go any hotter than this in the military actions, and I'd definitely back way off on the powder charge if any appreciable pressure sign is seen. The Swede receivers are super soft and the bolts are super hard - a recipe for a fatal headspace problem if pressures aren't kept down to roughly the levels of the original military loads.
 
I think the specialty should be "military spec tack driver." Keep it original and relish the sweetness of the Swedes.:cool:
 
The most common pressure signs are flattened primers and a "sticky" bolt lift. HOWEVER, there are no absolute rules and while there is a "spec" pressure, individual rifles and components can show pressure signs at levels below "spec" pressure.

No matter what the "spec" says, if you get pressure signs, stop. Every rifle and ammo combination is a unique individual. Some won't show the "traditional" signs until well above safe limits.

The Swede is made for the 160gr Swedish military ammo. They do real well with 140s and usually 120s. I don't know about making a varmint rifle from one, I use .22s, .24s, & .25s for that.

I wouldn't carve up an old Swede for that, especially in today's market.

The 6.5x55mm Swede is one of the most efficient and effective cartridges ever made. It has a "soft" recoil, is very accurate, and (check your tables) shoots flatter than the .30-06! In its native lands, the Swede is used to hunt moose! It has enough power for that, don't doubt it.

45,000psi is the pressure for the Swede. DO NOT load above this in ANY of the old rifles.

I have two Swedes, currently. A Carl Gustav 96 (1917mfg) that looks like it was made yesterday, and a rather rare one, a Norwegian Krag. One fellow I know thought so much of the round he had his Model 70 .30-06 rebarreled to 6.5x55mm! Much of the world today is caught up with high pressures and high velocities, it can be a real eye opener to see what the Swede can do, without that. It is a great round.
 
44 AMP, good info on reading pressure signs.

SAAMI specs for the 6.5 Swede is 46,000 cup, 51,000 psi by SAAMI pressure transducer standards. About the same as the .257 Roberts.
 
Just last week, I found an excellent condition 1903 Carl Gustav M38 at my local gunstore. I have been wanting to purchase a Swedish Mauser for several years now, so I couldn't resist.

I purchased 200 Nosler 140gr Custom Competition bullets, and 300 Hornady 120gr AMAX bullets as well. I am going to work up some loadings for these two, and see how they do.

I thought that this rifle was a great deal because it is complete to the last detail. It was originally an M/96, and was then converted to the M/38 configuration.

It has the "T" (for torpe, referring to the shape of the spitzer bullet) marked rear sight to match the newer M41 round of the time, and also has the M/38 range plate on the stock. Basically, if somebody back then wanted to shoot the older, slower 160gr round nose ammo with this rifle after the rear sight was upgraded, they could look at the range plate and see where they need to hold the sight. These aren't too commonly seen, and I believe one of the more rare plates.

Not many were retrofitted with the newer style rear sight for the M41 spitzer round. I guess the Swedish government figured out pretty quickly that they could either replace a rear sight and install a metal plate on the stock, or they could just go the cheaper route and change the info on the plate.:D

Most M/96's that were converted to M/38's retained the original rear sight for the older round nose M94 bullet, and a range plate for holdover corrections with the flatter shooting M41 was placed on the stock.

Anyways, I'm excited to shoot this beautiful old milsurp rifle. It's hard to believe by looking at it that it is 112 years old!!:eek:

I'll try and post a pic or two later today.
 
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I love my swede as it is. It is probably my most accurate mil sup rifle. I like the round so much i might build a custom rifle in it, but i wont change the one i have.
 
I have a M96 barreled action sitting around I may do up into a sporter someday.
I have been SERIOUSLY looking at the CZ 550 FS in 6.5 Swede. To me it would just be an absolutely incredible gun for all things North America.

I would really like to get into a 6.5/.260ish caliber. I keep looking at the modern variants that feed through an AR thinking one should be a better choice and have more available options in the future. I haven't been convinced any do.
 
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... The Swede receivers are super soft and the bolts are super hard...
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I don't buy that without some documentation.

After drilling & tapping m96 receivers, I would not consider them "super soft".

To the OP, I find that the 140gr at mid 2500fps will handle moose & elk nicely- using the same load now to hunt wolves. Super accurate.
 
Leave your Swede alone. There are a myriad of commercial hunting rifles out there that will do whatever you want without changing them. They are not importing these anymore and the prices on them are climbing.

Maybe it is just me, but I just don't see the sense in spending $200-300 on a rifle to make it a $300 rifle. In stock trim they are already a $300 (and the prices are climbing) gun. If you feel an uncontrollable desire to cut one up, sell your unaltered rifle and pick one up that has already had the hand of Bubba laid upon it.

Here is mine:
IMG_1544-XL.jpg
 
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Like the "Swiss Watch", the quality of "Swedish steel" was an accepted standard in those days. Correctly (or not) widely regarded as the best available.

Modern metallurgy tells us that the for the era, Swede steel was very good, if maybe not quite as much better than what was believed in those days. And their gunmaking skills were first rate.

I think the reputation is deserved.

Apologies for using psi where I should have used CUP. When I was learning, they were felt to be "about" the same thing. Modern measuring methods show a distinct difference, but I still get them mixed up sometimes. :o

modern variants that feed through an AR
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several 6.5mm choices currently out there..choose wisely...

I got no help there, my track record is miserable. Which ever one I pick, almost guaranteed it will be the other one that becomes the industry standard /survivor...
the only one I've gotten right in 40 years was VHS over Betamax! and that victory is meaningless today, anyway!

If you want a real eye opener, get a modern action rifle in 6.5 Swede, and handload it to above SAAMI pressures (staying within the safe limits of the action and brass) and look what it can do! Also has the plus side of still being a 6.5 Swede with factory ammo, which is pretty good already!
 
6.5x55 loading data

In my Swede 94's I used to load 45 grains of IMR 4350 with the 140 grain bullet this is and was and older loading for pressures in the 45,000 psi range. New loading data (Lyman edition 49) drops this load to about 43 grains and do not exceed the 45,000 psi. These actions will stretch with the hotter loads (45 grains of IMR 4350. This is a common problem with the small rings Mauser shooting these loads. Be advised and be aware I have encountered this and ruined a bolt and action! Hope my experience here will save some one else's. Just remember these rifles are over a 100 years old and in most cases are irreplaceable. They are a truly Marvelous weapon and a great joy to hunt with or just shoot at the range.
 
You can safely use the 6.5x55 SE for Elk. I used a Sako Tikka and 155gr. factory ammo. I limit my range to 200 yds. For smaller deer, I use either 130 or 140gr. bullets.
 
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