6.5 Creedmoor: AR10 Semi or Bolt Tubegun

H

hhunter318

New member
My brother is debating on getting a 6.5 Creedmoor but can't decide between the AR10 platform or a tubegun setup. I believe he in search of a tacticool rifle rather than something that is practical. If so I suggested the tubegun. If he's wanting something with a higher capacity I suggested the semi. What are your thoughts? Thanks in advance.
 
Would he consider a normal looking bolt action?
Is he wanting to build a custom rifle or just buy one and modify it?
Is he seeking the best accuracy possible or just wants to look cool?

If hes wanting to be Tacitcool then just go for a semi, more fun and accuracy will be easily good enough.
 
By all means, if accuracy's important, get a bolt action tube gun. Main reason is semiauto's need a heavier trigger pull to be safe and reliable; bolt action ones can have a much lighter trigger pull.

Back in 1971 at the Nationals when I was the first person to shoot an M16 across the standard course of fire in high power matches, afterwards, I and some of the other service team members shooting M16's talked about their future. We all agreed that all metal platform would get the bugs worked out and end up replacing wood and fiberglass stocks for rifles used in competition with shoulder fired rifles. David Tubb's T2000 version (below) is the one holding most of the records now in high power matches through 600 yards and a few at 1000. There are others makes costing less, too.

T2000CSIGHT.jpg


It's the complete "tube" gun. The barrel's a tube with rifling in it. The fore end, cheek piece base, butt pad extension and receiver (for the most part) are all metal tubes. It's even got a tube front and rear sight with little apertures in them to see through. It even shoots cartridge cases made from tubes of brass filled with tiny tubes of powder and bullets made from tubes of copper. Only major thing's not a tube are the pistol grip, detachable box magazine and the loading port it goes into.

All one needs to do is screw and bolt all the pieces together and they just keep on shooting very accurate. No more torque wrenches on stock screws. Their manually operated bolts have tighter tolerances than the factory actions once popular. The best of them will shoot as accurate as benchrest rifles.
 
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The 'tube' gun has many advantages over the semi. Ease of cleaning and general maintenance are the same as a standard bolt gun. Rebarreling on some set ups can be done in minutes. Light trigger pulls are safer for the bolt gun. With the exception of sustained fire the 'tube' set up it is the better choice if accuracy is the primary desire.
 
Thanks for the input, and thanks for explaining what a 'tube'gun is so I didn't have to try and take a stab at it. I have looked at the Tubb T2000 and the Eliseo Tube Gun, or rather researched them. I don't see how you could go wrong with them. I know some tubeguns are kind of a glue-in kit where the action is permanently bedded in the chassis, however that just makes me cringe. Not to offend anyone, I just don't like the thought of a good action being glued in 'permanently' to anything.
 
According to the maker 'gluing' the receiver into the Eliseo tube is optional. The fit between the 'ID' and the receiver is so close it may require light tapping to seat. The ones I've seen are very well made so I can understand how the set screws are sufficient to stabilize the action.
 
If he has a large ammunition budget and doesn't mind his single-source brass being thrown in the weeds, he would have more blasting fun with the auto.

The Tube Gun is for the careful shooter and handloader.
 
Then it sounds like the tubegun is for me and the semi is for him. I've been playing with a tubegun chassis on autocad that will hold the lawton 8000 action. I have some ideas for a wildcat.
 
hhunter318 comments:
I know some tubeguns are kind of a glue-in kit where the action is permanently bedded in the chassis, however that just makes me cringe. Not to offend anyone, I just don't like the thought of a good action being glued in 'permanently' to anything.
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No glue's used in tube guns; they're held together with screws that come out with a screwdriver. A barrel wrench and action vise is what's needed to remove then replace the barrel.

Benchresters sometimes glue their receivers to the stock so they stay in place from shot to shot. It ain't permanent; put the rifle in the freezer overnight and the epoxy holding everything together will release its bond between receiver and stock when the barrel's whacked with a rubber mallet. Or, heat the receiver up with a heat gun (3x to 4x hotter than a hair dryer) and that works, too.
 
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