586 -vs- 27

BoogieMan

New member
I am doing a little shopping online. Other than a $200 diference in MSRP what is the diference between the 586 and 27? I see the 586 is full length underlug.
Both are the classic series blued.
 
The "N" frame is the heavier frame? Same as a 29?
Yes x 2. :)

Compared to the L frame, it has a slightly larger grip circumference and LOP, although overall weight is remarkably close due to the full underlug barrel on the M586.

Also, some recent versions of the M27 are 8-shot. Almost all M586's are 6-shot except for some rare and generally expensive Performance Center versions.

Other than the finish and the lack of a common 7-shot version, the M586 is fundamentally the same as the more ubiquitous stainless Model 686.
 
Recent Pro Series or PC versions of 627 are 8 shot but the classic 27 is still a 6 shooter ! I have a Pro Series 627 w 4" barrel and really like it....very accurate and easy to train in DA mode !
 
Hi,
The L frame is the medium large size revolver. The N frame is the large frame revolver. I liken the L frame to a K frame on steroids. Same grip size as the K frame but beefed in the forcing cone and yoke area. Plus the full lug barrel. For people like me who have average or smaller hands the L frame is a fine revolver.
The N frame to me suits people with large hands. Longer reach to the trigger and also weight feels farther back in the hands. I have had both L and N frame revolvers. For me I shoot the L frame a little better.
Just opinion.
Howard
 
Thanks for the clarification. From the S&W website its hard to get an idea. I will probably end up on the side of a 27 because my other revolver is a XVR which im sure has the larger grip. Love the classic blued look on older revolers and pistols.
 
I will probably end up on the side of a 27 because my other revolver is a XVR which im sure has the larger grip.
Actually, it doesn't. The 460XVR is an X frame, which has the same grip size as the "medium" K frame and the "medium large" L frame.
 
The 5/686 is smaller and more comfortable to hold than the bulking N frame which, if it was any bigger I couldn't hold it, but I love both of them.
 
Grips are easy to change out...I own a J frame , K frame , and 3 N frame revolvers and never had a problem finding good grips that fit right ! That being said I have large hands so the stock N frame Hogue grips fit my hand well !
 
Forgive my ignorance, im not a "revolver guy", yet. The "N" frame is the heavier frame? Same as a 29?

If I didn't own an "N" frame (Mod 28), I'd own a 586 or 686. Fits my hand better and a few ounces lighter.

Now this all depends. The 586/686 standard feature is the lug. For an N frame, such as a model 629, some have full lugs and some do not. If you are comparing a half lug 629 to a 686 (full lug) they actually weigh the same (S&W website - 45 oz for N frame half lug, and 44.9 oz for L frame 686, both 6in barrel). So the difference is more of a measurement one, rather than weight itself. The N frame has a large cylinder window, and probably a longer frame as well. The L frame feels more nose heavy, but also tends to sit closer to the top of your hand. N frames in the hand sit proud, high up, compared to most other revolvers.

As for the feel of the grip on the gun, I would not let that factor in much. Aftermarket grips for an N frame could make the grip feel smaller than a L frame and of course, vice versa. For example, even from the factory, you could get N frame magna grips (reveals the grip frame) and you could get L frame standard target grips (wraps around front strap and butt) and the N frame then feels smaller in hand. I have many sets of factory grips, and many sets of aftermarket grips for these revolvers, and the feel is definitely mostly grip dependent. You can even get grips which make a round butt revolver feel like a square butt revolver. Its all in what works best for you.
 
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Winchester_73 brings up a very good point about the underlug. While the actual difference in weight is quite small, the presence/absence of the full underlug makes a very disticnt difference in the balance of the revolver. My M28 (the plain-jane version of the M27) feels lighter in my hand than a 586 or comparable L-Frame because the balance point is over my hand rather than in front of it. In my hands, a full-underlug barrel longer than 3" feels much more muzzle heavy than a half-lug barrel of 4-6". Accentuating this further is the fact that the 586 has a heavy barrel while the M27/28 has a tapered barrel. Some people prefer a more muzzle-heavy balance point while others, myself included, prefer the balance to be farther back. The only advice I can give is to handle both and buy whichever you like the feel of better.
 
The L frames (586, 686) are almost the same size through the cylinder and frame, they just used the smaller grip of the K frame ( model 10, 19, etc.),and a very slightly smaller cylinder and frame.

The guns are close enough that many holsters will work with either frame size.

Some grips are big,even on the K and L frames, but with the assortment of revolver grips available almost anyone can find a grip they can use on an N- frame.

As to weight. The 27 with it's thinner barrel and shorter ejector shroud is actually lighter than the 586/686.
 
Remember shooting a DA revolver SA can get you killed.

That is sort of an inside joke from a post on here the last few days

Well this is only funny when taken out of context. IMO the initial statement here, in its context, is a very good point. In a SD scenario, it is not wise to worry at all about cocking a DA revolver first. Instead, you are much better off to draw an fire, and make that your habit.

I get that it sounds funny, but in real life, its sound advice.
 
Main difference beside size and weight is the 28 will eat a steady diet of full house old school 357mags the *86 series will not. Or you could be a gp100 ruger.
 
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