586 single action weirdness after "trigger job"

C

Chainsaw.

New member
Did a "trigger job" on my 586, polished all the double action surfaces, installed an #11 trigger spring, backed off the main spring. Now, oddly enough, when cocking for single action the hammer has to be cocked further. I describe it this way. Before/stock single action cock of the hammer was say 90 on a scale of 0-100, now having done the tinkering the single action cock is more like 97-98. And the actual cock sounds kind of.....sickly. I did nothing to the single action sears etc as they are already PLENTY light enough from the factory. I have an extra length firing pin on the way and intend to have a looksee when I put it in but honestly have no idea what I could have fouled up. Would the change of tension on the main spring do this?

No push off. Single action works fine aside from this oddity.
 
Change the main spring too. Or put it back the way it was.
A Factory Standard Power Rib mainspring from Wolff runs $12. If it sounds odd there's probably something not installed correctly. Take it apart and reassemble.
 
Chainsaw said:
I did nothing to the single action sears etc as they are already PLENTY light enough from the factory
Click to expand...

If you put in a lighter trigger return spring, you likely did lighten the SA trigger pull, as the return spring is the one that primarily dictates SA trigger pull.

Regarding your original question, I'm tending to agree with Jim. The strain screw should be screwed all the way down. It's not an adjustment screw. I'm thinking you're now able to pull the hammer beyond engagement of the trigger nose with the true single action sear (see photo #2 below).

HammerStart.jpg
 
Actually Mrborland, thinking about it now I think the single action is lighter than I recall.

When my new firing pin shows up Ill get back in and have a looksee.

Thanks Gents.
 
Backing off the mainspring screw is a bad idea. It may work fine when you first do it, but as the gun gets dirty, or rounds that aren't easy to chamber are used, you risk misfires.

Trigger spring cutting can reduce pull, but again, can cause less-positive returns if done by more than a coil or two, especially when lubrication gets older.
 
As I understand it, the mainspring needs to be of a specific shape, with the strain screw fully down.
Backing off the strain screw allows the main spring to change shape.
Then the hammer to main spring relation is altered, maybe causing the change described.
 
Chainsaw,

your problem is quite unusual. I can't quite guess what would cause it, but disassembling and then reassembling everything might be a good first step.

It sounds like you have a good familiarity with working on revolvers, but I will still offer you a link to an article I wrote about working on Smith & Wesson triggers. The article is here:

Improving the trigger on Smith & Wesson Revolvers

And it is also discussed in this thread:

https://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=584772

Also, I would highly recommend getting an accurate trigger scale. It is hard to check your progress without good measurements, and I consider a trigger scale to be a necessary tool when doing a trigger job.
 
For crying out loud, just turn the strain screw back in.

Either that will move the mainspring back into correct position and restore normal operation or it won't. If it won't, you have screwed something up and it probably needs a gunsmith or the S&W Lifetime Warranty Clerk.
 
Straightshooterjake, was borrowing a friends trigger gauge for the double action work. Started over 14 lbs, is closer to 10 now but much smoother. Of course I neglected to try the single action before I gave it back.:rolleyes:

Jim........relax.
 
Chainsaw, thanks for the update, and please continue to keep us updated as you make progress. I will be very interested to hear about the root cause after you resolve the issue.
 
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