50AE reloading setup

Double R

New member
Howdy folks. Newcomer to the forum. I have never reloaded my own ammo but I would love to give it a go. Since I own this beast and 50AE ammo isn't readily available locally to me, I think it would be fun and practical.
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Here is why I'm posting. I have a small list of items I think I would need. Maybe I need more, less, better, etc...I'm open to suggestions.

My list includes...

Lee classic turret press with a 50AE 3 piece die set.
Vibratory tumble case cleaner with polish and media.
Case lube.
Digital auto powder dispenser.
CCI 350 primers.
H110 powder (I like muzzle flash)
Hornady 300 grain xtp jacketed bullets.
My used cases (Hornady)

As I mentioned, I'm a newbie and I certainly don't know it all. Just thought I'd throw this toward some more experienced folks. Thanks!
 
Thanks for asking our advice.

Welcome to reloading and to the forum.

Here are a few sites to peruse

references:
http://www.thefiringline.com/forums/...d.php?t=230171
http://forums.accuratereloading.com/eve
http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=13543
http://www.rugerforum.com/phpBB/view...fbd5ae1f754eec
or, if the links don't work, paste these addresses into your browser
thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=230171
forums.accuratereloading.com/eve
rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=13543
rugerforum.com/phpBB/viewforum.php?f=11&sid=1efda7af229b625361fbd5ae1f754eec

My usual caveat:

Remember, only believe half of what you see and one quarter of what you hear. That goes double for what you get from the internet. Even this post.

Do your own independent, confirming research when ANYONE gives you new facts on the web.

Also remember, even the idiotic stuff might have a kernel of truth buried in there somewhere.

Lost Sheep
 
10 Advices for the novice loader

I have thought of a few things I think are useful for handloaders to know or to consider which seem to be almost universally mentioned, so I put together this list of 10 advices.


Much is a matter of personal taste and circumstance, though. So, all advice carries this caveat, "your mileage may vary".


So you can better evaluate my words, here is the focus of my experience. I load for handguns (44 Mag, 45 ACP, 45 Colt, 454 Casull, 9mm, 357 Mag, 480 Ruger) a couple hundred per sitting and go through 100 to 500 centerfire rounds per month. I don't cast....yet.


When I bought my first gun (.357 Magnum Dan Wesson revolver), I bought, at the same time, a reloading setup because I knew I could not afford to shoot if I did not reload my own ammo. My setup was simple. A set of dies, a press, a 2" x 6" plank, some carriage bolts and wing nuts, a scale, two loading blocks. I just mounted the press on the plank wedged into the drawer of an end table. I did not use a loading bench at all.


It cost me about 1/4 of factory ammo per round and paid for itself pretty quickly.


I still believe in a minimalist approach and and try to keep my inventory of tools low. I do not keep my loading gear set up when not in use, either, but pack them away in small toolboxes until the next loading session.


Now, here are my Ten Advices.


Advice #1 Use Reliable Reference Sources Wisely - Books, Videos, Web Sites, etc.


Study up in loading manuals until you understand the process well, before spending a lot of (or any) money on equipment.


Read as many manuals as you can, for the discussion of the how-to steps found in their early chapters. The reason you want more than one or two manuals is that you want to read differing authors/editors writing styles and find ones that "speak" to you. What one manual covers thinly, another will cover well so give better coverage of the subject; one author or editor may cover parts of the subject more thoroughly than the others. The public library should have manuals you can read, then decide which ones you want to buy. Dated, perhaps but the basics are pretty unchanging.


I found "The ABC's of Reloading" to be a very good reference. Containing no loading data but full of knowledge and understanding of the process. I am told the older editions are better than the newer ones, so the library is looking even better.


There are instructional videos now that did not exist in the '70s when I started, but some are better than others. Filter all casual information through a "B.S." filter.


Only after you know the processing steps of loading can you look at the contents of of a dealer's shelves, a mail-order catalog or a reloading kit and know what equipment you want to buy. If you are considering a loading kit, you will be in a better position to know what parts you don't need and what parts the kits lack. If building your own kit from scratch, you will be better able to find the parts that will serve your into the future without having to do trade-ins.


Advice #2 All equipment is good. But is it good FOR YOU?


Almost every manufacturer of loading equipment makes good stuff; if they didn't, they would lose reputation fast and disappear from the marketplace. Generally you get what you pay for and better equipment costs more. Cast aluminum is lighter and less expensive but not so abrasion resistant as cast iron. Cast iron lasts practically forever. Aluminum generally takes more cleaning and lubrication to last forever. Just think about what you buy. Ask around. Testimonials are nice. But if you think Ford/Chevy owners have brand loyalty, you have not met handloaders. Testimonials with reasoning behind them are better. RCBS equipment is almost all green, Dillon-blue, Lee-red. Almost no manufacturers cross color lines and many handloaders simply identify themselves as "Blue" or whatever. Make your own choices.


About brand loyalties, an example: Lee Precision makes good equipment, but is generally considered the "economy" equipment maker (though some of their stuff is considered preferable to more expensive makes, as Lee has been an innovator both in price leadership which has introduced many to loading who might not otherwise have been able to start the hobby and in introduction of innovative features like their auto-advancing turret presses). But there are detractors who focus on Lee's cheapest offerings to paint even their extremely strong gear as inferior. My advice: Ignore the snobs.


On Kits: Almost every manufacturer makes a kit that contains everything you need to do reloading (except dies and the consumables). A kit is decent way to get started. Eventually most people wind up replacing most of the components of the kit as their personal taste develops (negating the savings you thought the kit gave you), but you will have gotten started, at least.


On building your own kit: The thought processes you give to assembling your own kit increases your knowledge about reloading. You may get started a couple weeks later than if you started with a kit, but you will be far ahead in knowledge.

RCBS and Dillon seem, by most reports, the best warranty service. But that is reflected in the original purchase prices. Lee has a one year warranty at half the purchase price. You pays your money and you makes your choice. If you buy the higher-end Lee stuff, use the heck out of it the first year (to week out any true manufacturing defects), and give the gear good maintennce, it will last as long as as well as RCBS.


Advice #3 While Learning, you may think about options. Progressive, turret or Single Stage? Experimental loads? Pushing performance envelopes? Don't get fancy.




While you are learning, stay below maximum power levels (and do not go below book minimums, either). Propellants are designed to run best within a fairly narrow performance envelope. Start in the lower portion of and stay in the mid-range of that envelope. While you are at it, check several different sources for recipes. Different ballistics labs use different guns, primers and conditions and get different results. Look at the range of values in the recipes and stay in the mid-range. Just concentrate on getting the mechanical steps of loading right and being VERY VERY consistent (charge weight, crimp strength, bullet seating depth, primer seating force, all that). Use a voluminous, "fluffy", powder that is, one that is easy to see that you have charged the case and which will overflow your cartridge case if you mistakenly put two powder charges in it.


While learning, only perform one operation at a time. Whether you do the one operation 50 (or 20) times on a batch of cases before moving on to the next operation - "Batch Processing" or take one case through all the sequence of operations between empty case to finished cartridge - "Continuous Processing", sometimes known as "Sequential Processing", learn by performing only one operation at a time and concentrating on THAT OPERATION. On a single stage press or a turret press, this is the native way of operation. On a progressive press, the native operation is to perform multiple operations simultaneously. Don't do it. While you can learn on a progressive press, in my opinion too many things happen at the same time, thus are hard to keep track of (unless you load singly at first). Mistakes DO happen and you want to watch for them ONE AT A TIME. Until handloading becomes second nature to you.


Note: A turret press is essentially a single stage press with a moveable head which can mount several dies at the same time. What makes it like a single stage rather than a progressive is that you are still using only one die at a time, not three or four dies simultaneously at each stroke.


On the Turret vs Single stage the decision is simpler. You can do everything on a Turret EXACTLY the same way as you do on a single stage (just leave the turret stationary). That is, a Turret IS a single stage if you don't rotate the head.


Learning on a progressive can be done successfully, but it is easier to learn to walk in shoes than on roller skates.


Also, a good, strong, single stage press is in the stable of almost every reloader I know, no matter how many progressives they have. Most keep at least one.


Advice #4 Find a mentor.


There is no substitute for someone watching you load a few cartridges and critiquing your technique BEFORE you develop bad habits or make a dangerous mistake. (A mistake that might not have consequences right away, but maybe only after you have escaped trouble a hundred times until one day you get bit, for instance having case lube on your fingers when you handle primers; 99 times, no problem because primers are coated with a sealant, but the hundredth primer may not be perfectly sealed and now winds up "dead")


I started loading with the guy who sold me my press watching over my shoulder as I loaded my first 6 rounds to make sure I did not blow myself up, load a powderless cartridge or set off a primer in the press. I could have learned more, faster with a longer mentoring period, but I learned a lot in those first 6 rounds, as he explained each step. I educated myself after that. But now, on the internet, I have learned a WHOLE LOT MORE. But in-person is still the best.



After you have been mentored, mentor someone else. Not necessarily in loading or the shooting sports, but in SOMETHING in which you are enthusiastic and qualified. Just give back to the community.


Advice #5 Design your loading space for safety, efficiency, easse, cleanliness


Your loading bench/room is tantamount to a factory floor. There is a whole profession devoted to industrial engineering, the art and science of production design. Your loading system (layout, process steps, quality control, safety measures, etc) deserves no less attention than that.

For example, consider the word "workflow". Place your components' supplies convenient to the hand that will place them into the operation and the receptacle(s) for interim or finished products, too. You can make a significant increase in safety and in speed, too, with well thought out design of your production layout, "A" to "Z", from the lighting to the dropcloth to the fire suppression scheme.

One factor often neglected is where the scale is located. Place your scale where it is protected from drafts and vibration and is easy to read and operate, eye level, in good light, etc.


Advice #6 Keep Current on loading technology


Always use a CURRENT loading manual. Ballistic testing has produced some new knowledge over the years and powder chemistry has changed over the years, too. They make some powders differently than they used to and even some powder names may have changed. However, if you are using 10 year old powder, you may want to check a 10 year old manual for the recipe. Then double check with a modern manual and then triple check with the powder maker.


Read previous threads on reloading and watch videos available on the web. But be cautious. There is both good information and bad information found in casual sources, so see my advice #10.


Advice #7 You never regret buying the best (but once)


When you buy the very best, it hurts only once, in the wallet. When you buy too cheaply it hurts every time you use the gear. The trick is to buy good enough (on the scale between high quality and low price) to keep you happy without overpaying for features you don't need. "The delicious flavor of low price fades fast. The wretched aftertaste of poor quality lingers long."


Advice #8 Tungsten Carbide dies (or Titanium Nitride) rather than tool steel.

T-C dies instead of regular tool steel (which require lubrication for sizing your brass) for your straight-walled cartridge cases. T-C dies do not require lubrication, which will save you time. Carbide expander button for your bottlenecked cases. Keeps lube out of the inside of the cases.


Advice #9 Safety Always Safety All Ways.


Wear eye protection, especially when seating primers. Gloves are good, too, especially if using the Lee "Hammer" Tools. Children (unless they are good helpers, not just playing around) are at risk and are a risk. Pets, too unless they have been vetted (no, not that kind of vetting). Any distractions that might induce you to forget charging a case (no charge or a double charge, equally disturbing). Imagine everything that CAN go wrong. Then imagine everything that you CAN'T imagine. I could go on, but it's your eyes, your fingers, your house, your children (present or future - lead is a hazard, too. Wash after loading and don't eat at your bench). Enough said?


Advice #10 Take all with a grain of salt.

Verify for yourself everything you learn. Believe only half of what you see and one quarter of what you hear. That goes double for everything you find on the internet (with the possible exception of the actual web sites of the bullet and powder manufacturers). This advice applies to my message as much as anything else and especially to personal load recipes. Hare-brained reloaders might have dangerous habits and even an honest typographical error could be deadly. I heard about a powder manufacturer's web site that dropped a decimal point once. It was fixed REAL FAST, but mistakes happen. I work in accounting and can easily hit "7" instead of "4" or a "3" instead of a decimal point because they are next to each other on the keypad.


Good luck.


Lost Sheep
 
You should probably start with the question of how often do you shoot this pistol?
And how many rounds, say every month, will you shoot it?
If it's not a huge amount, you can probably dispense with the tumbler and case cleaning stuff.
Just clean the brass by hand - very therapeutic. :)
And dispense with the case lube, too, not necessary with modern carbide dies.
And probably the digital powder dispenser, what ever that is, unless you just like fancy gadgets.
Lee makes a couple of inexpensive and easy to use powder dispensers for their presses.
The Classic Turret is a good choice, as it can be used as a semi-progressive or a regular manual turret.
Like Lost Sheep sez, keep it simple - less distractions.
P.S.
You might want to add an additional taper crimp die to the three die set, especially since the Classic Turret is a four die unit.
 
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P.S.
You might want to add an additional taper crimp die to the three die set, especially since the Classic Turret is a four die unit.

Thanks for info!

Is the taper crimp die still a separately used die? I was reading a bit and Lee makes it sounds as if the taper crimp is now part of the bullet seating die. It is a bit confusing to me. Also, aren't Lee dies regular steel for a 50AE which would require lube. Maybe I'm wrong but seems like I only saw one set of true carbide dies for a 50AE (can't remember the manufacturer) and they were over $400 for set.
 
Your case cleaning really depends on how many rounds in a week/month you plan on shooting. If you're only going to reload for the one handgun cases can easily be cleaned by hand. If you anticipate shooting 1K or more rounds in a month then some sort of automation is probably advised. Do clean them, dirty cases will gunk up the dies quicker than necessary.

Lee products are just fine. I have the 4-hole turret press from Lee myself, love it. Affordable setup for those of us who shoot 1-3Xs a week or less. Get the auto-disk (I have the PRO auto disk) and use it with the Powder-thru expanding die (I doubt it but you may need the double-disk kit to fill the cavernous 50AE case). This works great, minimizes spillage/leakage and would be much less expensive than an automatic powder drop.

Double R said:
I was reading a bit and Lee makes it sounds as if the taper crimp is now part of the bullet seating die.
Most all die Manufacturers are doing this, have forever. I will echo the earlier advice by saying get an additional crimp die. If you get the 4-hole turret you need to move past the empty hole anyhoo. I separated the seating/crimping on my 45auto dies and haven't looked back.
 
Your case cleaning really depends on how many rounds in a week/month you plan on shooting. If you're only going to reload for the one handgun cases can easily be cleaned by hand. If you anticipate shooting 1K or more rounds in a month then some sort of automation is probably advised. Do clean them, dirty cases will gunk up the dies quicker than necessary.

Lee products are just fine. I have the 4-hole turret press from Lee myself, love it. Affordable setup for those of us who shoot 1-3Xs a week or less. Get the auto-disk (I have the PRO auto disk) and use it with the Powder-thru expanding die (I doubt it but you may need the double-disk kit to fill the cavernous 50AE case). This works great, minimizes spillage/leakage and would be much less expensive than an automatic powder drop.

Most all die Manufacturers are doing this, have forever. I will echo the earlier advice by saying get an additional crimp die. If you get the 4-hole turret you need to move past the empty hole anyhoo. I separated the seating/crimping on my 45auto dies and haven't looked back.
What is the best technique for hand cleaning? Obviously you want the brass clean but I personally like a shiny case too...course I do realize shiny doesn't shoot any better than dull. I just would like for my work to look good.

So as far as the taper crimp, just buy an extra seating die and remove the seating part and use it as crimping die only?

Thanks for all the advice. I appreciate it greatly!
 
What is the best technique for hand cleaning? Obviously you want the brass clean but I personally like a shiny case too...course I do realize shiny doesn't shoot any better than dull. I just would like for my work to look good.
I would use a nylon brush for the the inside, a couple turns to loosen/remove any crud. Outside is easily cleaned with a rag and solvent. Preferably something that dries quickly and doesn't leave any residue (Health and air-quality issues with certain solvents). Also, not a bad idea to at least take a primer pocket cleaner to remove any cake. Someone else who only hand cleans can surely tell you the best way. I have about $200 into just my cleaning setup but the results are great. Also I'm cleaning over 1K cases/month for about 9 months a year so I felt it was justified to some degree...
So as far as the taper crimp, just buy an extra seating die and remove the seating part and use it as crimping die only?
Yep. Make sure the first die is backed off.
 
Also, aren't Lee dies regular steel for a 50AE

The Lee dies I had in 50AE were steel.
So are my RCBS. Case lube is a necessity.
Since the case is tapered, carbide for them would be spendy.

Lee makes it sounds as if the taper crimp is now part of the bullet seating die.

Good luck, the Lee dies I had had no provision for any sort of crimp at all.
In all fairness, the weight of the die set made them useful for breakaway fishing weights though.

Been loading for the 50AE for quite a while. Never have fired a round of factory - 2 bucks apiece!
I would definitely recommend RCBS (taper crimp seater/crimp is standard)
dies and, depending on how much you reload, a separate taper crimp die for finishing the rounds.

All my 50s are early ones with '/44MAG' markings. Maybe they have changed the ejector angles on the newer (tank tread barrels) pistols?
I shoot only 4227, as H110 tends to put the empties over
the top of the slide (the H110 brass marks the top rear of the slide) toward me.

Since you are new to loading a 50.
Most commonly purchased accessories are geared for .22 thru .45 caliber.
Best hit the dollar tree to pick up some cheapie funnels for charging the case neatly from a scale pan.

Although I load on a 550, I charge my cases with a Uni-flow.
Since the large diameter powder drop funnel was too small for a 50, I J-Bed a larger diameter cone shaped piece of metal to it,
so that it fit the case mouths without spilling any dropped charges.

My .02, JT
 
All my 50s are early ones with '/44MAG' markings. Maybe they have changed the ejector angles on the newer (tank tread barrels) pistols?
I shoot only 4227, as H110 tends to put the empties over
the top of the slide (the H110 brass marks the top rear of the slide) toward me.

My .02, JT

Same deal I think. Mine is Israeli made but the only difference between mine and a 44MAG is the magazine and barrel. You can see 44MAG stamped on the bolt. I have held a 44MAG round next to 50AE and looks as though rim diameter and case length are same, thus why both guns can share the same components.
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Thanks for sharing your information. It is good to hear from someone who knows the 50AE.

I had heard 4227 was a great powder for the 50AE due to its slow burning nature...heard it was dirty and had no muzzle flash either. I have read that if you wanted a little flash to use H110 or 296.

My gun is new and I'm having the quirks that is common to this gun. If I load more than 4 in the magazine, she won't fully cycle by not locking the bolt completely on the next round. I asked Magnum and of course they accused me of limp wristing it. I ask a local gunsmith and he said it was just new and tight. He said put about 200 rounds through it before I passed judgment about any cause.

I've only shot 40 rounds of factory Hornady 300g XTP through it and it is a literal blast to shoot...but like you said expensive!
 
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So I've been checking pricing and availability of some items. Looks as if IMR 4227 is the only powder of choice that's available. Nobody has 296 or 110 powder. Is it common for such powders to be difficult to get?
 
Looks as if IMR 4227 is the only powder of choice that's available. Nobody has 296 or 110 powder.

It's been that way for most of the time since Sandy Hook.
Powder is just being bought by shooters at higher rates.

That said, I've actually had good luck with finding H110/296 locally.
It is a must for Desert Eagle accuracy in the .440 cor-bon and the best in the .44 magnum.

2400 is the only needed powder that I have not seen for sale at any price!
2400 in the .50 has given me from so-so to abysmal accuracy in my 50s, regardless of barrel lengths though.

I had heard 4227 was a great powder for the 50AE --- I have read that if you wanted a little flash to use H110 or 296

No denying that a bit. 4227 is an excellent .50AE choice in the 6 inch barrels that
still gives quite a bit of concussion, but no blinding flash like H110.
In a short barrel .440 cor-bon/H110, the word unpleasant comes to mind.
That blast is why I mainly shoot the 10" barrels in all calibers (for blast free enjoyment)
and use the 6" for letting newcomers try.

My gun is new and I'm having the quirks that is common to this gun---they accused me of limp wristing it

Suggest you keep the recoil springs and guides cleaned after firing (solvent and old toothbrush)
and keep them lubed before shooting to help smooth function.
Those parts as well as the forward lower frame catch a lot of powder fouling.

The .50AE is a lot of case to get up to the chamber in a short space. This is why tapering crimping really needs to be done, and best to do it as a separate step.

The .50AE, in particular, requires a relatively strong grip with no wrist breaking allowed.
Let the recoil bring the pistol straight to the rear and up.

I like to shoot mine with the support hand slightly under the butt (and magazine).
Believe the manual mentions keeping clear of the free floating magazine.
Well, I went to the hardware store and bought 1 1/2" diameter round washers in thicknesses from .050 (for the .357) up to .080 for the .44s and .50s.
(Take the calipers you'll be needing and using to set cartridge O.A.L. along)
I roll them onto the magazine body to both keep the magazine in it's proper lowered position and to take the back and forth movement out of it.

Magazines so equipped require a firm smack with the heel of the hand on the base when seating in a gun, especially when the slide is forward.
But they feed just fine when shooting from field positions and
allow me to shoot the gun with a grip that is familiar and comfortable to me.

JT
 
Thank you Lost Sheep!

Lost Sheep, thank you so much for you insight with this top 10 list! I actually came across this forum just yesterday as I was searching for information on loading ammo for a DE .50 and got lucky to find this exact thread. As this thread is 2yrs old, is there anything recent I should now as a newbie to reloading? I've not yet purchased anything, but am currently researching everything that was pointed out in this thread. Thanks in advance!

Deagle EDC
 
Welcome to the forum.

Use the search feature to find other mentions of the cartridge. You'll get a lot that don't mean a lot if you use the default search, but if you click on "Advanced Search" and in the top-left entry area put in: "50AE+reloading" (but without the quotation marks), then click on "Search Now" and it will take you to a number of them.

Also please check the sticky threads at the top of the forum. There is one on basic reloader's needs that is directed at new reloaders.
 
Welcome to the forum.

Use the search feature to find other mentions of the cartridge. You'll get a lot that don't mean a lot if you use the default search, but if you click on "Advanced Search" and in the top-left entry area put in: "50AE+reloading" (but without the quotation marks), then click on "Search Now" and it will take you to a number of them.

Also please check the sticky threads at the top of the forum. There is one on basic reloader's needs that is directed at new reloaders.
Unclenick,

Thanks a ton for the info and the sticky suggestion. I've ordered the abcs of reloading and will be sure to understand that before I move forward with any purchases. Also, I've since purchased a 44 barrel for my DE, so will be looking to load both 44 & 50. Really excited to begin the process, but I understand I need to crawl before I try and run lol.

Deagle EDC
 
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