50-140 (3 1/4) Sharps with Trail Boss loads

Deltadart

New member
Does any one have loading data for the 50-140 Sharps cartridge with Trail Boss powder, using a 550 grain lead paper patch bullet?
 
do it the easy way, forget the trail boss and use blackhorn 209 powder. much eaiser to load a case with and their is no need to wipe between rounds. dont compress the 209 powder, use hot primers and a 60 thousands wad between the powder and the base of the bullet. when you wrap the bullet with paper do not do it wet and use no lube. just use number nine paper, wood fiber paper is cheap and best for the dry wrap.fill the case to a point when you put the wad on and the wrapped bullet in the case the nose is only sticking out of the case. also do not crimp if it is a single shot rifle and i assume it is. no need to crimp. weigh each powder load so they are all the same dont, just dip with out weighing. if you want more info and their is more, just pm me and we can talk that way or by phone. i suspect you have a really nice rifle and i can help you make that thing a tack driver at any range. helped 2 brothers from ill. get 3 inch groups at 500 yards. thats the way good info works. ill give it to you for nothing.thanks for the question and the post. you woke me up.
 
Catman
Wow lots of good information there. I will be in touch by PM in a couple of days. The rifle is a Shilo Sharps 1874 Long Range express. I need to cast some bullets for that cartridge as I only have a few left at the moment. I have been working on my .38-55 to get it going. I about 25 miles from Spokane and will be going into town at the end of the week, so I will pick up a can of 209 when I am there. Hopefully will be able to cast bullets this week end.
 
I prefer proper black powder to subs, but either will allow you to develop more accurate loads than with TB. Also, buying bulk loads of black powder, ie 5lbs at a go, even with Hazmat will be cheaper than TB.

For TB, decide seating depth for your bullet. Mark outside of case at bullet base. Fill case to that level with TB, making sure that the TB would not be compressed - it does not do well when compressed. Weigh. That is your max load. 70% of that is your starting load. Work accordingly.

Don't take random guy on internet's word. Here are Hodgdon's loading instructions. Enjoy.

http://https://www.hodgdonreloading.com/reloading-education/tips-and-tricks/low-recoil-loads
 
Hi Dockrock
Thanks for the information.
I have been using full load GOex f in the rifle with wads and cookies which work very well. The only issue is as Elmer Kieth said recoil is "right smart". I was actually trying to come up with a barely subsonic load for the rifle / cartridge and some of the data on TB looked interesting. I have no experience with it. Also would you please check the link, does not seem to work for me.
Thank you again
Paul
 
get a mold that weighs 475 grains, it will shoot way better than the 550 one. pm me and let s get you winning every match. if the new mold at 475 grains has a cupped base , so much the better. it helps bump up a pp bullet. i also have a reamer you can borrow to free bore the first 1/2 inch of your bore at the throat of it. that way you pp patched bullet will enter the barrel with out a tear or ripple on the paper. never a need to wet patch with my method. my freebore is .459, 1/2 thousands above the bottom of my rifle bore. get wads from close to you at buffalo arms. get number nine all wood fiber paper also. 209 powder is not cheap but it is worth it many times over. you can use reloader 7 also and set the bullet back in the case so no void. belay that, dont use reloader 7 in your case, too long, i was talking about a 45/70. as to recoil, easy fix. go to mid way and buy the best dead mule they have and install it in your back stock under the butt plate. that will change every thing in a instant. you have a very good high end rifle, put a little money in it and make it a real shooter. pm me i love putting guys in the winner circle. i have other tips also. remember, i have helps 2 brothers get 3 inch groups at 500 yards shot after shot. they were using blackhorn 209 powder and a paperpatched dry wrapped bullet. boy did they make some old stiff guys mad shooting their heavy greased bullets. the old guys said it was a fluke. well im a old guy and it isnt a fluke.
 
While I prefer the safety and easy cleanup of black powder, I have used BH209 and it works. By easy, hot soap & water is easy as it gets. Trail Boss is JUNK! It is fast burn powder and you can get into trouble. If trail boss is done RIGHT: You get ridiculous low velocities at higher pressure. Yes, I would have to research some links, but; Trail Boss burns at higher pressure than 209 or black powder. I have a can and if not given away it will eventually fertilize the veggie garden.

In a nut shell, you can substitute 209 for black powder by volume. I use the same magnum primers for both. The 209 is a little expensive. You can postpone 209 cleaning while black powder, I clean the same day. I have 50 rounds of 50/70 loaded with both powders and I choose BP for long shooting sessions when I can clean after. I shoot the 209 for quick demo sessions and/or delayed cleanup.

Black powder is nothing to be afraid of. I see many rusted to junk in line ML rifles that were left unclean after shooting substitutes. I dont get the issue. Follow the crowd fear? But hey, if it has to be a sub, 209 works and risks are low. I mean substitute by volume. Clean with Hoppes 9.
 
Very much like the data and advice that has been given.
I do have a note about clean up with Hoppes #9. Regular #9, a cleaning standby, is a nitro solvent....BP and subs are not nitro based.
Hoppes does make a “#9 Black Powder”....not the same stuff.
Pete
 
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