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5.56 brass ?
- Thread starter rebs
- Start date
4runnerman
New member
Rebs, taking the crimp out of a case is a breeze. I could fly through 100 cases in maybe 15 minutes tops. Get the set up and have at it. It's a lot more easy then trimming for length in my book.
4runnerman
New member
Rebs I just use the Chamfer tool in a drill. Put the drill in a vise, turn it to med speed and have at it. Very fast and very good job.
Technically you are supposed to due to the different web thickness of various brands of brass.thump do you have to sort the brass by head stamp first ?
I found a sweet spot by testing different settings to ensure that I was not getting loose primer pockets.
I ran 2,000 last weekend and I will be running another 2,000 this weekend.
Rebs, make a list of the equipment you have for the 223 case. The advantage to purchasing cases with crimped primers is knowing they are once fired. I have once fired, once fired that are primed, fired-sized and no primers and I have new/never fired.
Then there is that part about 'how many'?
F. Guffey
Then there is that part about 'how many'?
F. Guffey
Jeff Bartlett will decrimp surplus brass for 25 bucks per thousand.
http://www.gibrass.com/brass.html
I've purchased from him before, will do so again in the future I'm sure. When I was stationed at Fort Knox he let me pick up in person, so I got to see a bit of his operation first hand which was pretty cool.
Jimro
http://www.gibrass.com/brass.html
I've purchased from him before, will do so again in the future I'm sure. When I was stationed at Fort Knox he let me pick up in person, so I got to see a bit of his operation first hand which was pretty cool.
Jimro
thump_rr Dillon Super Swage 8 minutes per 100.
perhaps even faster with the auto eject modification. I did mine a bit differently, but u get the idea.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C34sRku4ASY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=naUQf1J6mi8
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JeepHammer
Moderator
www.apex-brass.com is the only remanufacturer I know of that the brass comes in CORRECT.
Apex uses a proper pin press that gets the case length right,
The shoulder pushed back into place,
And the neck strightened up on the case body.
If you are loading accuracy ammo, instead of blasting ammo, this will be a big deal.
I've used Everglades brass before,
They resize on a Camdex machine and Camdex machines simply don't produce enough pressure to properly size cases.
OK for blasting ammo, if you don't mind the 0.007" to 0.010" difference in brass length at the 'Datum' point on the shoulder that 99% of Camdex machines produce.
It simply takes a pin press capable of beating the brass to reproduce a factory size brass, and Camdex can't produce that pressure, Especally with brass that is work hardened...
Apex uses a proper pin press that gets the case length right,
The shoulder pushed back into place,
And the neck strightened up on the case body.
If you are loading accuracy ammo, instead of blasting ammo, this will be a big deal.
I've used Everglades brass before,
They resize on a Camdex machine and Camdex machines simply don't produce enough pressure to properly size cases.
OK for blasting ammo, if you don't mind the 0.007" to 0.010" difference in brass length at the 'Datum' point on the shoulder that 99% of Camdex machines produce.
It simply takes a pin press capable of beating the brass to reproduce a factory size brass, and Camdex can't produce that pressure, Especally with brass that is work hardened...
JeepHammer
Moderator
As for primer pocket crimp debate,
I thought it through...
Some say trimming weakens the case, so you should swage.
This simply is NOT true.
The brass was pressure crimped, squeezed out of any support role in the case to hold in the primer,
Trying to push that lip back over into the case does nothing but leave a lip of folded over brass (and a groove) very close to the primer pocket.
Its been pushed around TWICE, once to crimp the primer, once to free up the primer pocket, so its very work hardened and of no use at all in support for the lower case.
Swage or Trim, doesn't matter how you remove it, its not supporting anything in the case so the argument is moot.
Personally, I power trim with a contoured trimmer that leaves a nice, smooth radius to guide the primer into place instead of leaving the lip/groove there that likes to snag primers in my progressive press.
I thought it through...
Some say trimming weakens the case, so you should swage.
This simply is NOT true.
The brass was pressure crimped, squeezed out of any support role in the case to hold in the primer,
Trying to push that lip back over into the case does nothing but leave a lip of folded over brass (and a groove) very close to the primer pocket.
Its been pushed around TWICE, once to crimp the primer, once to free up the primer pocket, so its very work hardened and of no use at all in support for the lower case.
Swage or Trim, doesn't matter how you remove it, its not supporting anything in the case so the argument is moot.
Personally, I power trim with a contoured trimmer that leaves a nice, smooth radius to guide the primer into place instead of leaving the lip/groove there that likes to snag primers in my progressive press.
Rebs, make a list of the equipment you have for the 223 case. The advantage to purchasing cases with crimped primers is knowing they are once fired. I have once fired, once fired that are primed, fired-sized and no primers and I have new/never fired.
I have a RCBS primer pocket swagger, a 1/2" and 3/4' countersink bits, a Lyman primer pocket conditioner that is supposed to remove the crimp. I have tried them all and just don't get a consistent crimp removal. Some come out good and some do not. I must be doing something wrong.
I use the mil crimp remover in a case prep center,
I tried press mounted swagers, and other ways to cut the crimps out, this is the most consistient for me.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/254170/rcbs-trim-mate-case-prep-center-straight-cone-military-crimp-remover-small
http://www.rcbs.com/Products/Case-Preparation/Case-Trimming/Trim-Mate™-Military-Crimp-Remover-2.aspx
Of the bench mounted swaagers I tried, I found that the blue one provided me a more natural hand movement than the green one.
Since I do other operations with the same peice of brass in my hand in a motorized case center, cutting the crimps on it cuts down on the brass handling I do.
I tried press mounted swagers, and other ways to cut the crimps out, this is the most consistient for me.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/254170/rcbs-trim-mate-case-prep-center-straight-cone-military-crimp-remover-small
http://www.rcbs.com/Products/Case-Preparation/Case-Trimming/Trim-Mate™-Military-Crimp-Remover-2.aspx
Of the bench mounted swaagers I tried, I found that the blue one provided me a more natural hand movement than the green one.
Since I do other operations with the same peice of brass in my hand in a motorized case center, cutting the crimps on it cuts down on the brass handling I do.
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4runnerman
New member
Reb's- If you have a mess load to do, take a look at the Little Crow. Now it's caliber specific, so you have to get one for each caliber, but man is it a breeze.
If you do it right it will chamfer inside and out at the same time. Can't beat it in my book. For your more precise loads-Look at the Wilson trimmer. garenteed accuracy.
If you do it right it will chamfer inside and out at the same time. Can't beat it in my book. For your more precise loads-Look at the Wilson trimmer. garenteed accuracy.