45-70 reloading

T

T_PRO_Z

New member
Hello all,

I just purchased my first Lee reloading kit to start reloading. I do not know where to begin but I have reloaded some 7-30 waters.

what should I get to reload a 45-70? I know that I will need a 3 die set because it has to be crimped to be fired out of a levergun. I was told to get some h1000 for the powder but what else do I need?
 
WELCOME TO TFL!

It's tough to know what you need when we don't know what you've got. Lee kits range from the table top "wack-a-mole" "lee loader" up through those with progressive presses.

First, get a book. Get more than one if you can. Real books, that you can have with you at the loading bench, is my preference.

Lyman for one. Then the ones put out by the bullet makers. Read them, the sections on reloading in general and on your specific cartridge(s).

That should give you a good idea of what you need for a basic set up. Then come back here with specific questions, and we'll probably give you information overload. ;)

The .45-70 is a very versatile round, with rifles of varying strengths ranging from original black powder guns up through modern ones that can take loads dangerous in the old guns.

Today, the rifles and loads are often separated into three groups, from least strongest to strongest. You said lever gun, (one of the new Marlins??) for them, yes crimping is definitely advised.

I've been reloading .45-70 since 1983, Ruger, Marlin, Contender, and some others. Have learned a thing or two, and am happy to share.

Do some reading, learn which questions you need to ask, what applies to your situation, and what doesn't.

You can load good ammo with a bare minimum of tools, and no matter if its a bare minimum or a garage full, there IS a learning curve, but its not terribly steep, just go slow and learn carefully.

There are a lot of reloading "tools" that are not absolutely needed to make ammo, but are very handy and make life easier.

Press
dies
shellholder
Reloading manual
scale
loading block (note, many common ones will not accept .45-70 base down)
case LUBE
calipers
powder funnel

is a good basic set. Lots of things can be added, some worthwhile, some not so much. ;)

Good Luck, and come back with more questions (you WILL have them!:D)
 
Flashhole is 100% correct. A straight wall case like 45-70 will allow case pressure to drop far to quickly for an extremely slow powder like hodgedon 1000. I sometimes load "cowboy" rounds in that caliber with red dot, or a number of high rate of burn shotgun powders, but realistically, accurate 5744, h. 4198, 3031.....powders considered "fast" by shouldered case round standards will work well in your rifle. The slowest powder I EVER use is 4064...and I gotta compress it almost like black powder to get it hot enough to burn completely, otherwise it is like a bad bucket of movie popcorn....unburned colonels. My personal all around plinker is 34 grains of 5744 behind EITHER a 405, OR a 350 grn slug. The only problem I have with that load is its hot enough to flame cut at the F. Cones on my revolvers a little, but in your lever, not an issue.
 
Since the .45-70 is a straight walled case, as opposed to the more usual bottleneck, the die set should include a neck flaring die. This is necessary to avoid crushing cases or shearing bullet metal during seating. Use the flaring die even with jacketed bullets.
 
You'll have to look pretty hard to find a modern die set for .45-70 that is not a 3 die set. I've never seen a two die .45-70 set in over 50 years, unless it was a 3 die set with one die missing!

Here's a good place to start, the old Lyman manual "factory duplication load".

400/405gr slug, IMR 3031, 38.5gr standard primer 1300fps approx.

mechanically, the .45-70 is just a LONG revolver cartridge. Same steps are used.
 
thanks guys! all this info is very helpful and i have a couple re-loading books that i got for free from various gun shops but not one of them has 45-70 in them. the owner of a gun and accessories store told me that h1000 would be the bst but i believe i will go with something hotter haha. the die set that i got was an rcbs and i had to look for the crimping die.

also i am not sure what re-loading kit i got, the same guy that told me h1000 would be the best powder for the round sold it to me new for 150 and i had to buy the bullet puller, brass tumbler, rcbs caliper, and all it pretty much came with was a powder scale and the powder dump thing and press.
 
If you're going to reload, bite the bullet (pun intended) and get yourself something like an RCBS reloading kit. You'll get a very good press, scale, and all the things needed for a lifetime of reloading. Dies of course are extra. Buy at a minimum a Lyman 49th Edition reloading manual and read it....carefully. It will really get you started on the right road to success. I load the 45-70 is several rifles and it's probably the least fussy to load for caliber I've ever owned. Many different powders work very well in my guns. Probably my favorite powder for this caliber is Reloader 7 closely followed by IMR4198/H4198 and bullets of 350g and up. I've never gotten the bullets under 400g to shoot as well as the heavier bullets. Decent, but never as good. Good luck.
 
Sounds to me like the fellow that recommended the H-1000 may not be the best advisor for reloading as that powder is completely wrong and unsuited for the 45-70.
 
T-PRO-Z, lets get something very clear. The difference--need for 3 dies in 45/70 is the separate expander die, NOT the crimp die. Being as it's NOT a bottle neck case, it cannot be expanded in the Full Length size die. All "standard die sets come with a combination seating/crimping die that can be used to just seat, or seat AND crimp,(depending on how it is set).

Study a good reloading manual to begin to understand the terminology involved with reloading. A basic understanding of what goes on in a round of ammunition when you pull the trigger, then what is consumed that then has to be replaced to create a live round.

Never rely on word of mouth to find reloading data That counter monkey at the LGS should NOT have given out reloading advice. I worked at a LGS for 6 years. My boss said "I don't care what load "YOU" worked up, or how safe it was in your gun, unless you can find it in one of the loading books I sell, don't give it out!" Most times I simply said look it up in that manual right over there.
 
Blackened colonels got a chuckle.

Search here for me and 45-70. I have an opinion or two. If you keep it under 1600 fps, it is fun to shoot. Over 1800, is going to leave a mark at both ends.

I like varget and just got some trail boss. 3031 is also good.

Enjoy.
 
If you want to be really clear .... the bullet seat die will have a built-in roll crimp capability. Read the die instructions or ask more specific questions about how to adjust for a proper crimp. Or ... you can buy a Lee Factory Crimp die and crimp in a additional step (my preferred method for lead bullets) ... or ... you can buy a Taper Crimp Die (this is my preferred method for jacketed bullets). All three methods work.

What gun are you shooting? I see a lever gun but which one. I have a Marlin Guide Gun and love it.
 
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