429421 mold

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Guys i just aquired a beautifull pre model s&w 29. Also it came with ideal 2 cavity 429421 mold.

Any suggestions on lead mix. I pretty much use lyman#2. And powder charge.

The man who originally owned this gun used 15.2 grains of blue dot with a 240 grain fmj flat point. And i have some of those.

But i would like to here your alls thought on this mold and what powders to use with this lead bullet.

Powders i have are h110, w296, 2400, AA#9, Blue dot and Red dot, 4227, w231, HS7, etc.

Thank you for time and input
 
H110 and 296 are both canister grade versions of St. Marks WC296 (WC is for Western Cannon), so, other than lot-to-lot differences, they are the same powder. If yours are old, there may be a bigger lot burn rate difference than the two have now, as the canister grade didn't used to be as tightly controlled before 2000 as it is today. I don't know whether your 4227 is IMR or H, but they are not identical, even though close.

Lyman's data says the 429421 cast of Linotype metal over 2400 gave the best accuracy results for them. Their starting load is 18.2 grains and their maximum is 20.6 grains when using a CCI 300 standard primer. This is lower than Keith's load, but Keith also used the relatively soft 16:1 lead:tin alloy, IIRC. His loads are warm, though, so you would work them up very carefully. This does illustrate that a range of alloys may be used. The softer alloy used by Keith will do best in a gun with a very smooth bore.

Lymnan's loads for H110/296 are 24 grains minimum and 25 grains maximum. This is fired with a CCI 350 magnum primer.

Lyman's loads for IMR 4227 are 20.2 to start and 24.0 grains maximum over the CCI 300 standard primer.

Lyman's loads for H4227 are 21.5 to start and 23.8 grains maximum over the CCI 350 magnum primer.
 
I've got to wonder if powder coating the bullet, would eliminate the need for Linotype. I've shot some pretty warm loads using 2400 in my 357 mag with PC bullets with great success at a average of 1,250 fps.
 
Try 21 instead of 22 grains of 2400.
I've found that newer lots of powder burn hotter.
That's with sized and lubed to 0.430 dia with 429421 using wheel-weights.
 
But i would like to here your alls thought on this mold and what powders to use with this lead bullet.

Powders i have are h110, w296, 2400, AA#9, Blue dot and Red dot, 4227, w231, HS7, etc.
Click to expand...

Me personally I would opt for starting out with the AA-9 and then go to the 2400. The Accurate seems to give a little more of a push than a pop as seen with the 2400 or 110/296. I would also say, just from exhaustive reading about it, that 4227 might be another viable option, I just do not have any experience with it. With the #9 however, I find I do not get the big bright muzzle flash as noted with a couple of the others. This is important to me as I hunt with my handloads and in a low light situation this will REALLY impact your vision.

As for the alloy, I don't ever run anything harder than straight wheel weights, even for my magnum loads. The fit, and lube are your really important issues. Get those down and go have fun. I have run the Alox and a home brew called Felix Lube, as well as Carnuba Red from White Label, with the latter being used the most in my true magnum loads. None have given any issues with leading.

I probably have a 10-12 pound box poured up of these and they shoot great, but I really don't have a dedicated load worked up for them. I picked up one of the MP 432-640 molds and well after that set everything else aside. I like to use the small HP pin in mine and pour using a nice blended alloy which runs around a 10-12 BHN. It will handle the pressure of the full magnum loads up to around 1500fps which is plenty for a bullet weighing in 260'ish grain range.
 
My favorite alloy for mag revolvers and cast rifle loadings is Lyman # 2 cut with 50% pure. This gives an alloy of 95-2.5-2.5 Lead - Tin - Antimony. The alloy allows the bullet to compress at lower pressure and get a good fit as it travels the bore.

The Number 2 alloy is a great bench mark and I go back to it when things go south and I cant get my alloy to work!

I recommend White label lubes, Carnauba Red or The BAC lube works best for me. Carnauba Red requires a heater but is soft enough for low velocity rounds, The BAC does not need a heater but works well at rifle velocity. I keep both around as some guns prefer one over the other and some do not care!

Take a visit to CastBoolits.com and they will have a bunch of info on any questions you can dream up.

http://www.lsstuff.com/
 
I shot and still shoot lots of 429421 bullets in .44 Spl and .44 Mag. I use 2 powders, 2400 and Unique.

First time I tried 2400 I quit using H110. 2400 is much more forgiving then H110, I use it from 15.0 gr to 21.0 gr. Works great in both cartridges as well as .357 mag.

For range loads I like 7.5 gr of Unique behind that bullet for about 950 fps.
 
Unless you want to do all your shooting with hi-octane loads, I would work up a pleasant accurate load for general shooting and a full range load for hunting, headaches, flinch inducement. I don't believe lino is needed for max loads, but sizing for throat diameter is. I like an alloy softer than WWs for both type loads. I've seen less leading and better accuracy using these methods.
 
I also use an Ideal version of the Kieth bullet but I out grew "Magnumitus" a few years ago don't load much above mid level. Of my 5, .44 magnums a load of around 15-16 gr. of Bluedot works great with that bullet. I've always used Wheel Weigh alloy or it's equivalent BHN of "mystery metal" and have driven them in upper magnum with no leading (mainly because they fit the guns I shoot them in). But I also use a lot of 2400 and Unique to power my .44s...
 
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