$40 cleaning rod? Am I cheap...

J

joeranger

New member
I should have just bought the damn thing. I have a 24in barrel on my 5.56 AR and I damaged the crown. It was most likely the old army cleaning kit that I had to add extra sections of rod to get all the way down.
So I have a new crown but I saw the nylon rod at BassPro was $40.
A bargain compared to what I spent on the rifle but it seemed like it was out of line.
Hard to order online since it is an odd size to ship.
 
None of my cleaning kits I bought for my guns cost $40.

I think the most expensive one I have ever bought was a Winchester brand "all caliber" kit that came in a wooden box with brass hinges and a brass clasp. That cost all of $30 I think.

Aside from that I just buy bits and pieces as I need them ie. bore brushes, patches etc.

I only buy kits with aluminum or brass cleaning rods. Steel rods are stronger and stiffer than aluminum or brass but also run a higher risk of damaging the bore/crown/any other part they may contact with. I don't use them (so obviously I don't use the GI kits although I think I have a half dozen of them somewhere).
 
I won't use a steel rod unless it's coated and a bore guide is used with the rod. Back in the '70s we could still buy Outers brass take down cleaning rods. I still use those.

That said, spending the $40 may be worth it if you've got a precision rifle barrel. You still have to use a bore guide or muzzle protector if it's a Garand type action.
 
I've never paid anything CLOSE to $40 for anything related to cleaning a gun.

go with a Hoppe's Boresnake for $16 works like a dream on AR's

my most expensive cleaning rod was my Dewey Rod and I think it cost me like $27 or something like that.
http://www.deweyrods.com/

the military issue cleaning kit has decent cleaning rods and runs about $25-$30 usually.


*edit* for the record, I still use my Dewey Rod with barrel guide exclusively on my remington 700. works incredibly well
 
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Pay the money for the Tipton. I can't remember what it cost, but I was thinking it was closer to $30. I too hated to pay that much, but after using it I realize that it's worth every penny. I'd buy another one in a heartbeat.
 
I have become a devotee of the Dewey coated rod. They're coated, very rigid, do an excellent job, and are available in lengths that will take care of the strongest barrel.

Yes, they're on the pricey side. But it's money well spent, because when used properly you almost completely eliminate the possibility of damage to the rifle by cleaning.

Also, you should immediately invest in a bore guide built for the AR series. They're plentiful and when used will keep that rod centered in the bore--which is exactly where you want it.
 
I've got a pair of short Tipton carbon fiber rods for pistols, and a pair of Gunslick carbon fiber rods for rifles. Definitely a bit pricey, but I'd prefer not to risk firearm damage by inattentiveness.
 
I've got a Dewey rod that I really enjoy using. It hangs over my work bench from a cup hook along with a couple of other rods. I've also used Tiptons that are very nice. A nice cleaning rod is a joy to use and it's one luxury that everyone should be able to afford. I see Dewey and Tipton rods at the online sites for about $30.00, which in this day and age, is about two boxes of factory ammo. Save your pennies and buy a good rod. You'll wonder why you waited so long.
 
The theory behind the $100+ hard stainless rods is that they cannot embed grit and scratch the bore. I use Dewey and Tipton rods and the coatings can load up with dirt if you aren't careful - the same problem that aluminum presents. That's the theory of behind the stainless rods and the people I have talked to who believe it have much better guns than I do (and shoot better too.)

John
 
I use the Bore Tech/Dewey coated rods with good bore guides. I have some of the Sinclair rod holders as I take the rods to the range and they don't get damaged etc.
 
I also got 1 tipton then I purchase 3 more for a total of 4 and they are around 40.00 with tax at cabelas and they are a one piece are graphiteboron and rigid enough to flex and take stress without harming the bore I use the others and boresnakes but I will stand by them...
 
My main gun passion is traditional muzzle loaders. As a result I have learned to make much of my own equipment. Doing so is fun, gives me what I want and saves a bunch of money.
My first thought reading the original post was to make yer own rod. I would use brazing rod and thread/tap the ends for jags and a handle. Cheap, easy on the bore, sturdy and you did it yerself. What could be better?
 
Ive used the Dewey rods for years, and they have always worked well. After all the aggravation of the different sectional rods over the years, my first Dewey made me a believer.

One thing Ive never understood, is putting out good money for a decent gun, and then either not cleaning them, as many claim to do, or buying cheap stuff that does more harm than good. The later is probably worse too, although not properly cleaning a gun is abuse to me.
 
Re cleaning rods, do not forget rod guides. More barrels have been ruined by improper cleaning than via shooting.

Personally speaking, 0ne piece stainless rods serve well.
 
I have 4 of the Tipton carbon fiber rods. Two in .22-.27 cal and the other two for .30+ cal. They were $30 apiece at Cabela's locally. I like the Tipton design since the part you beat on with the rubber mallet does not turn, therefore the bearings don't get damaged. I also like the carbon fiber BUT you cannot flex it (or beat it) as hard as you can a steel rod. I have broken one of the .22 rods before. I was trying to force a .30-cal patch that I had cut in half down my 22-250. A steel rod would have taken the punishment but the carbon fiber rod snapped. Totally my fault...but steel would have handled it.

That being said I still like the Tipton CF rods.

I thought I liked brass rods until I started shooting more jacketed stuff out of my rifles and found out what copper cleaners do to brass :eek:

-cls
 
I like the Tipton design since the part you beat on with the rubber mallet does not turn, therefore the bearings don't get damaged.
Click to expand...
Wow, my cleaning regimen isnt any where near as physical as yours. I just push the patches and brushes through by hand. :D
 
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